What kind of oil do you use to seal it after your done shaping.
Im tempted to just do a hot coat but id rather use the oil.
Thanks fellas
What kind of oil do you use to seal it after your done shaping.
Im tempted to just do a hot coat but id rather use the oil.
Thanks fellas
Linseed oil. Tom Wegener also uses apple cider vinegar (retards mold) and something else. I forget exactly. Others smarter or more tuned in than I might know/remember. PM me if you’d like to check out the board I picked up from Tom back in November.
The way I understand is Raw Linseed Oil is only legal in Aus. In the US we use 1/2 Boiled LInseed and 1/2 Gum Turpentine. Only difference with Raw Linseed in Australia is you add 1/3 apple cider vinegar.
I picked mine up from Tom, so it had raw linseed oil, the apple cider vinegar, and one other additive. He told me though just to rub it with the boiled linseed here and that would be fine. So, that’s what I do.
I’ve heard you can obtain raw linseed oil here in the US, but I haven’t looked into it. Had a leftover bottle of the boiled linseed oil from some furniture, and I have plenty to coat the alaia for a long time to come.
Aloha agdesigns,
I’ve noticed over the years many questions here on Swaylocks relating to wood finishes. With the new popularity of the ailia boards the questions have become more numerous. There are many myths associated with finishes, especially oil finishes. I am not a chemist, but I’ve studied finishes and used various finishes during my 36 years as a woodworker. I’ll relate a few things I’ve learned in an effort to shed a little light to those who want to know. Many of these myths have become so commonly believed that most don’t want them dispelled.
One myth is that oil finishes were favored by our ancestors, but there is actually no record or evidence to suggest it was a preferred finish for furniture. The other myth is that oil finishes penetrate the wood and protect from the inside, which is also hardly true. Oil finishes are in fact of little benefit in protecting wood. “Oil finishes” have become popular in the last few decades because they are so easy to apply - rub on, wait, rub off. Many finishes that contain varnish and lindseed oil are called “oil finishes” or “rub on” or “wiping” finishes. Those finishes that contain varnish DO protect the wood from moisture because varnish is a “film” finish. Because they are diluted with lindseed or tung oil they are thin enough to rub on with a rag, but therefore thin enough to require many more coats in order to “build up” a protective finish. Shellac, laquear, varnish are film finishes that dry as a film over the wood with additional coats to “build up” the finish.
Lindseed oil is made from the seeds of the flax plant. Raw lindseed oil takes a very long time to “cure” and never becomes completely hard. “Boiled lindseed oil” is not actually boiled but the term boiled refers to the fact that driers (cobalt, zinc, manganese, etc.) are added in order to make the oil cure more quickly. So there is really no reason to use raw lindseed oil as a preservative unless for some reason you just want it to stay gummy for longer. Except for a simple wax finish, lindseed oil is actually the least protectivce finish of all the traditional types of wood finishes, as it is easily penetrated by water and water vapor.
As with any liquid poured onto dry wood, oil will show off the color and grain but lindseed oil will not “protect” wood as a finsh regardless the number of coats, soakings, heat applications, etc. About the only reason to use lindseed oil (especially raw) on the ailia boards, and it is a good reason, is that it will stay gummy and aid against being slick on the deck if you keep applying it regularly. The only way to really “protect” wood exposed to water other than glassing it, is to use an epoxy coating, or apply several coats of marine spar varnish. Shellac and laquers break down with moisture.
Hope that helps.
Richard
Richard-- Thanks for pointing out the differances between boiled and raw linseed oil. I was reading thru this thread thinking these guys are gonna wish they hadn’t used raw linseed oil.
I coated a board with tung oil (that was mixed with orange oil and a UV inhibitor). Compared to a linseed/turpentine mix on another of my boards, the tung has left a film that has so far not dried out requiring re-coating.
I swapped boards with another guy who uses tung oil and his board had a similar type of smooth coat.
Bob
with all that said!! im going the marine spar varnish route!! i wasn
t sure?? epoxy is $$$ and a can of spar is only $15. how many coats do `ya think it would take to make it solid.
I used rr epoxy and glassed
my little balsa an prolly dint
use a total pint and finished
six or eight boxes with the drips.
I am afraid of degrading wood and lams
in my complacent maintainence schedule.
I cut rocker in the stix it aint a pine plank
I got mor invested than 12$
…ambrose…
1 1/2 oz. to seal each side
plenny and 1 /12 oz to
hot coat it dries
in a coupla hours
6 oz to lam each side
way plenny 4oz
if you wanna get
to that …neo alaia
Was trying to figure out the same thing. Found this on the Tree to Sea forums. Follow the link for more photos (bottom of the page) and the write up from the next page is quoted below.
http://www.grainsurf.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=818&start=10