Airbrush on hotcoat question...

I am spraying cheap craft acrylics (Delta Creamcoat/FolkArt/Americana) thinned only with Future, on sanded RR epoxy hotcoats. What is the best time to pull tape in order to get the sharpest lines? Wet? Semi-Dry (just turned ‘flat’)? Completely Dry (I can’t even smell it anymore)?

I have experienced tearing/ripping of the paint in the past, but have not tried a ‘wet pull’ or anything other than waiting a few hours for the paint to dry. My curved lines tear/rip the worst/most.

Also, I seal tape lines with clear acrylic prior to spray to avoid bleeds.

If there is a thread in the archives that covers this issue, please let me know, but I have been searching for a while.

Thanks in advance for any help,

JSS

Sure you can paint over a hotcoat, the trick is in the sanding for the crisp lines. 220 is a must to prep the surface. The surface must be completely clean, no dust, no residue. Next the tape, good quality automotive tape…the expensive stuff. then, you need to make sure your edges are burnished down. Rub the edges down with your fingernail, popsicle stick or back edge of a razor blade (you can tell when the tape is down good, it looks adhered to the glass) Also once the tape is down on the board, rub the tape with your hand to make sure the adhesive gets warmed up and sticks real good. Now the spray part… lots of light coats. Heavy spraying will seep under the tape and give you spider veins. If you do get the creaping spider vein, take a razor blade wrapped in 220 grit and lightly sand the creepers, hopefully they will only be in a place or two where you didn’t get the tape down real good.

There is a fineline between too much paint (laying it on too thick, and having it creep and flake) and just the right ammount (just enough to opaque out the white)

I would not recommend pulling the tape before the paint is dry. Pulling it wet is just going to cause smearing. Let it dry completely then pull the tape slowly.

Let us review:

  1. good prep

  2. good tape

  3. good adhesion

  4. light coats

Thanks resinhead! I have 6 colors to go for the design, so in about a week (I only get a chance to do one masking/spray/pull a day) I’ll post some pics. I wanted to get some good advice before I got a few colors in and screwed it up…

JSS

You can speed things up by using a blow dryer to dry the paint beteween colors.

 Howzit Atomized, Using a hair dryer works if the paint coats are thin. If the paint is to thick then using heat seals the top and the paint underneath doesn't dry well and this can lead to bleedage. Aloha,Kokua

Here’s a shot of what I have so far…

My question now is… on the original black outlining, I had some tears that are still showing. What would be the best way to fill them in? Thinned paint with brush? Remask and spray?

I am hesitant to remask on top of all the colors I have down so far, as I would hate to pull them up…

Thanks for your help! The main thing I was doing wrong was not thinning the paint enough, and putting down coats that were WAY too heavy/thick… Since I have followed your advice, not a single paint tear! I feel half-competent!

JSS

G’day JSS,

Buy yourself a Posca pen mate, about $4.00 from the newsagents. 1/8 or 1/4" auto tape and colour her in. Like a bought one .

Daren

Aha… This is interesting… so the subsequent coat of epoxy will not trash the paint? I have had some issue with my experimentation with acrylics where some bits seemed to get rubbed and others seemed to crack under the epoxy coat on top. Maybe I was doing something wrong…

Dave,

I haven’t had any problems yet. This is my 4th board with acrylics on the hotcoat, and the paints on all of them still look great (except where I wetsanded through while polishing the glosscoat). I used to get fisheye problems, but not anymore since I took someone’s advice from Sway’s to wash the board down with dishwashing liquid to get all the oils off (I found out the hard way what DNA does to acrylic paint).

I like how bright and vibrant the colors are with just a layer of gloss on top. All of the colors on this board above have tiny, pearlescent flakes in them, and I don’t think they would sparkle under many layers of glass and resin. Also, I cannot laminate completely clear yet (still get some milkiness in laps), next board I think I’ll try your roller technique.

JSS

Entity,

Thanks for the tip! Do Posca pens come in pearl colors? My black is semi-metallic/pearl. I guess I could go over all the black lines with Posca, though…

JSS

Quote:

Aha… This is interesting… so the subsequent coat of epoxy will not trash the paint? I have had some issue with my experimentation with acrylics where some bits seemed to get rubbed and others seemed to crack under the epoxy coat on top. Maybe I was doing something wrong…

What is happening when you trash your paint on top of a hotcoat is either two or three things: 1) you are over working the gloss, and forcing the paint to disolve and smear. 2) you have too much paint on the board, and it’s flaking off around the tape pull lines (that little ridge of thick paint). then little pieces float around your art work. 3) if its gloss, you didn’t kick it hot enough, and the resin is sitting there disolving the tape. paint and anything else in it’s path.

remember the longer epoxy or resin sits on top of the paint wet…bad things will start too happen.

Howzit resinhead, I am one of those who washes the board with soap and water after laying down a pinline or design and that get's rid of those pesky paint flakes. I don't use poscas much any more since over brushing a gloss will affect them because they are acrylic paint in a pen. Zig pens are pigment ink and gloss resin doesn't affect them like a Posca. Since I can't get Zigs any more I use india ink which I consider the best for pin lines. When you wash the board if you use the scrubber side of a dish wash sponge very lightly you can take the edge from the pulled tape off since it's not adhered to the board like the rest of the pin line. Aloha,Kokua
Quote:

Entity,

Thanks for the tip! Do Posca pens come in pearl colors? My black is semi-metallic/pearl. I guess I could go over all the black lines with Posca, though…

JSS

G’day Maxmercy,

Dont know about the metallic or pearls with posca. But I have also touched up lines with a piece of sponge dipped in the paint and gently wipe it on and it has come out perfect.

I think the real trick is to leave you last sand at maximum #400 preferably #240-320 and the paint will stick like s#!t to a blanket and you’ll get no tearing.

Good luck

Daren

If your worried about tearing up the colors when you mask over them again, just spray down a light coat of pure future, to seal the surface.

You’ll be able to stick the tape to it when it’s dry without worrying about it pulling the paint up when you take it off.

Kit

Thanks for the help, I’ll give the sponge a try…

JSS

Kit, thanks for the idea… It will come in handy. I’ll post pics when this thing is done…

Again, thanks to everyone. Swaylock’s is a great place…

JSS

Howzit KKSurf, You can also use the spray can acrylic and then use a heat gun or hair dryer to remove the tape easier. This one is definitly in the archives.Aloha,Kokua

The top is finally done… the bottom is just 2 red stripes, so that will be cake compared to this…

JSS

Great design!

A logarithmic spiral resulting from the division of golden rectangles into squares and remaining golden rectangles is it??

I’m a big fan of mathy stuff like this, as well as modern art and architecture…

piet mondrian and the De Stijl boys would like this one…

…the paint reminds me an early XX painter called Torres García…father of the Universalism