Airbrushing after fiberglassing

I ran into a unforseen problem. Cranked out my first board, 8’8" noserider. I brought it to a surfboard shop to have it glassed. I was told that they would not gloss coat it after they had fiberglassed it if I then sanded the board and airbrushed it. Apparently, small particles, fingerprints, paint reactions etc. can cause the final coat to make “fish eyes”. As i understand it, this is an uneven distribution of the coat that produces hills and valley’s, which under normal circumstances, would have been spread evenly. So my question is… What would be the best thing to COAT the board after it has been fiberglassed and then airbrushed? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!! Brian

Many support Future Floor Sealer. I’ve used it on sanded hot coats with great results, but never to protect paint. Seems thin to me, but others support it. Personally, I suggest going out a buying a bit of gloss resing, or just plain old sanding resin, and a brush - and do it yourself. It’s not going to be professional, and it will add some weight… but who cares - your going to look at that and say… I did that.

20 years a sprayer I feel qualified to answer this one! Firstly, spray with CLEAN HANDS!!! At all times pick the board up with paper between the surface and your skin. Let NOBODY fuck around the factory handling boards. Your friends will have picked their noses between bouts of fondling the lovely boards. Secondly - Too fine a grade of finish sanding can lead to “separating” of the gloss coat. I’ve glossed thousands of my own artworks on filler coat, and It’s only ever separated when somebody else did it!!! So, leave some scratches to be filled by the gloss coat. If you are super delicate, you can wet-rub the shiny surface of your sprayed graphics with super fine wet-dry paper - This prevents gloss coat separating on the paint. For extra careful types, the slightest coat of conventional "Pro-Finish "laquer can be applied before wet-rubbing the entire surface. Cover all the artwork and gently rub out any glossy bits. Finally, the gloss -coat preparation will be the ultimate difference between fame & pain! A warm and dust free workshop is a luxury, but you can at least hose down the floor before commencing with resin. Tape up the rail, sprinkle TALCUM POWDER sparingly over the board surface, use your powdered & clean hand to spread the powder over the board, rubbing gently. This picks up remnants of grease. - places where the powder sticks may require a quick rub with a fine dry sandpaper. Then, brush off the talcum powder with a clean dustpan style brush.

what causes bleeding of colors when glassing over them? i have used paint pens a few times, glassed over them, and had some minor bleeding. too much styrene in the mix?

Howzit Teddy, After good acrylic dries the only way to remove it is with acetone,styrene or sandpaper,so I would say there’s to styrene in the mix. Shoot it with just glossing resin and it should be O.K… You might have to work a little harder doing your rubout but the trade off is worth it. About a year ago I did a board for an artist who painted a picture on the sanded hot coat that was quite bumpy. I shot it with pure glossing resin to avoid hitting the paint job. Well it came out just fine after the rubout,a little heavier than usual but the owner didn’t care. Aloha, Kokua

I did a repair on a JS board(australian board I think). They painted on top of the glass. The paint they used was really durable. Actually took a little sanding to remove. Just wondering what kind of paint was probably used. Really clean looking. Thanks

Australians still use Petroleum based car paints…Acrylic lacuer. I belive its illegal in the states

I have glossed over a lot of art on the hotcoat,it was all done in water or solvent based acrylic.I wiped the board with VMP naptha using a paper towel to get any oil or dirt off.Spray a mist coat of clear acrylic,lightly sand with say 320 by hand (no block) and then scuff the whole surface with 3M red scotchbrite pad.Gloss as normal.One thing…I only use Reichold Gloss Resin,Silmar just takes too long to kick and may eat into the paint and make it bleed.Thats just my take on it,there are other ways I guess.The other poster was dead right about idiots handling boards.Shaped blanks and sanded boards are Kook magnets for sure. R.B.

Howzit Cleanlines, not just kook magnets,one shaper I worked with had the bad habit of picking up and touching the blanks and boards in different phases of work. I finally banned him from the inside of the shop, made him stand outside if he wanted to talk to me.Aloha, Kokua