This 9’6 longboard has cracked over and under the rail and I’m not sure how much of the glass should be removed . The apex of the rail looks ok and doesn’t seem delaminated yet, but I worried that it will remain a week spot if I fix it only where it’s obviously broken. Im not in a hurry but would like to get it repaired before it gets stored. It’s 24 ounce top and bottom.
I’ll try to post pictures
The pics are not super clear on my phone, but I generally sand down the thickness of the glass patch that’s being added, so that the repair can be feathered in without leaving a lump.
You say its 24 oz top and bottom but my guess is its probably 8 oz, 2 layers of 4 oz cloth, top & bottom. 24 oz would be 4 layers of 6 oz cloth and that doesn’t sound right to me.
Ok, so this is where Doc’s super Gorilla Glue with cloth over it repair fits purrfect. Doc gave a good run down on this method over on the other rail ding thread. Should suffice.
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Hi Huck, thanks for getting back. I’m not sure about the weight of the cloth . I think it’s volan, I never used it and thought it would be heavier.
Well possible that I misinterpreted the label and it’s 2x4 ounce both sides. I’ll find out.
Volan does come in 7.5, 6, and 4 oz. Maybe could be 3 layers of the 7.5?? Still sounds like too much to me.
I’m not familiar with Doc’s super glue technique that McDing references. But I have done a lot of rail repairs like this with 4oz cloth, as I described.
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Yeah I don’t have volan here anyways and not going to buy extra cloth, just wanted to pass on what (mis) information I have about the board. I’ll probably fix it with what I have around . I don’t think I can get gorilla white here in Europe , but I have some Pu based foaming construction glue here that’s yellow, so in my case that should be ok and serve the purpose. As I understood it the foaming glue will give a hard backing under the glass. Going to give it a try. When shit hits the fan I’ll post pictures of the comedy .
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Ohhkeybedokles- coupla things;
I can’t tell if that’s been bashed or the whole thing got tweaked. Though if it got bent there’s not a helluva lot you can do about it, just fix like a bashed rail.
Expanding glue behind the glass is the way to go, with any luck it’ll pop out the crushed areas. * What it doesn’t do, well, you’ll see.
With a new knife blade, open up the cracks and get the glass away from the foam that’s been compressed in, get the glue in behind the crushed in glass. Don’t cut anything away, let it work.
Okay, now, with coarse-ish sandpaper, roughen up the area, get the cracked hotcoat and gloss dealt with. You’ll see some of it that’s gotten spider cracks, like a spiderweb. Sand them by hand, all good.Then, clean it off, acetone and a white rag, colored rags may get the dye dissolved and you get a tint job you really didn’t want.
Then, start glassing and sanding. Use sanding resin rather than laminating resin. I would go with 6 oz. cloth but use what you have, providing it’s not super heavy. Glass, sand to shape, repeat until you’ve built up the shape it should be, then a good sized later over the whole area, feather the edges and wash with acetone or styrene monomer**, hotcoat, sand, gloss, polish, there ya go.
Hope that’s of use
doc…
*Yeah, the glue will do quite a lot as it expands. Only a few pounds pr square inch, but… I actually saw an ad for a company that was using a foaming glue type of stuff to raise and repair concrete drives that had over time compressed the soil underneath …
**You see, polyester resin starts out as laminating resin. It bonds chemically to later layers but it won’t harden completely, enough to sand and polish, when it’s in contact with air. So, you make sanding resin by adding a very little styrene wax to it which goes to the surface of the sanding resin like an oil film on water and makes a very thin barrier against the air. Cool, huh?
Now, to put other layers of resin or lamination on top of it, to make it stick you need to remove the barrier. Sanding will do it and that’s great when you need to remove material too, but otherwise either acetone or styrene monomer (it’s styrene wax after all) will do the trick. Neither one is good for ya, glove up and mask up, like you should for all glass work.
doc…
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