another snapped question, but....

Howdy interweb surfers:

Theres a ton of great information on here repairing a snapped board. Definately got a good feel on how to proceed, but, one thing i have not been able to find any information on is repairing a snapped board after having it been shaved down several inches or some feet. I have a nine footer in need of some mending, its a weber, if that sheds any light :frowning: Last night i was running a caliper down the rails of the two halves trying to see if after shaving a foot, two or three off i could re connect the halves and have them line up properly. From my observation with the calipers it appeared it could be done. However, the calipers i used only stretched a couple inches toward the stringer. It is unclear to me if thickness from rail to rail would line up. if this will work, then great! or if i dont have a clue, please put me in the know! :^)

~Johnny

Give it a try, for $50 and 3 hours, it’s worth doing just for the experience.

FatPenquins, twintipped swallows, just about anything works once under a good surfer.

I’ve seen good surfers almost rip with broken in 2 longboard back halves, with the foam showing fully, no watersealing.

You can only learn for it, and knowledge is not horrible to accumulate.

was driving over da head and my friend and I saw a nose and tail stickin up out of a trash can in front of one of the kahala mansions, a blue hawaii snapped in half - threw it in the datsun and stopped at a surf store and home center on the way to sandy b. cut the jagged edges square (enough) with a machete mixed some resin the sun cure resin, slapped on the band aid after plunging two dowels into the foam and we surfed it - It almost survived the summer.

Hey Johnny

I totally agree with Lee…but there are a couple of things you should keep in mind going in.

First…If you have shaved off 2-3 feet then there is no way you can get around the fact that the flow of the outline has been disrupted.

and depending on where the the missing section is, the chances are your rail lines are going to be disrupted as well.

All I’m saying is…KNOW this before you start and just work with what you’ve got.

Don’t waste a bunch of time trying to get it all “perfect” because chances are you won’t be able to.

My suggestion(for whatever that’s worth) is to focus on getting the bottom level and as even as possible.

You can live with stepping an a bump or crease, but that same bump on your planing surface could be disasterous in a wave.

But most of all…just have fun doing it!

just my 1.874 cents

Yeah, dats why I first mentioned FPenquuin, with double WidePoints…

Anything works, but there’s good boards and bad boards…depends how well you need to surf.

Assymetricals work, offset fins, offset bottoms, it all works, somewhere, sometimes, somewaves.

But the stuff you learn from putting a board back together is priceless. Oh, I meant AFTER you’ve done it.

AMEN!

However…at this point for me it has to be a REALLY special board for me to put one back together.

I’d honestly rather just make one from scratch now.

I might make a mini board or something like that depending how big the broken halves are.

But hey…that’s just me

But the stuff you learn from putting a board back together is priceless. Oh, I meant AFTER you’ve done it.

Yeah, but that is not how my g-friend at the time saw it, she was so jealous of that board because it and I were seeing so much of each other she launched it out the door on to the rocks one saturday,

That board taught me more than one priceless lesson!

soft foam board bags!

OK…That’s some funny stuff!

By the way…if you were married…I’m pretty sure that is valid legal grounds for divorce.

Oh…sorry…I didn’t notice, “my g-friend AT THE TIME” (past tense)

great responses. thanks!

“FatPenquins, twintipped swallows, just about anything works once under a good surfer.”

well i guess then this project should be a breeze :wink:

“threw it in the datsun…after plunging two dowels into the foam and we surfed it - It almost survived the summer…”

datsun, nice. i thought about using dowels too, except it seems difficult to penetrate the foam and to also line up the two halves after having the dowels inserted. however i thought about shaving the dowel ends to a point for easier injection, or drilling some holes, filling with glue and then inserting the dowels. sitll though i imagine lining up the two halves the board is going to be tricky. i liked the idea from the post on here of the guy who sawed out parts of the old stringer and used wood from a fruit box as a replacement. this seems like it would strengthen the board well, but for time purposes i may give the dowels a go. i hope this board. how about threaded steel dowels!? survive the summer?, actually i guess its gonna have to survive the winter first :slight_smile: :frowning: not gonna happen! but we’ll see, its been interesting reading about how properly mended snapped boards that snap again dont snap in the same place!

"…shaved off 2-3 feet then there is no way you can get around the fact that the flow of the outline has been disrupted.

and depending on where the the missing section is, the chances are your rail lines are going to be disrupted as well…

My suggestion(for whatever that’s worth) is to focus on getting the bottom level and as even as possible…

But most of all…just have fun doing it!

…I might make a mini board or something like that depending how big the broken halves are."

i understand the flow of the outline well be disrupted. rail lines being disrupted as well, i dont understand. with the brief time i have with some calipers, it appeared i ccould find spots on each have which would line up eveningly after shaving off a foot, two or three. bottom level even as possible, well remember this. when finished (do i dare say? yes!) ill think of the top being like one of those fancy step decks.

i thought about a mini board, even a knee board, the two halves are nearly perfect. one is 4’8", the other 4’4", unfortunately i dont think i want a board that small. fiberglass body board? first of its kind? body boarding has its moments, but once you stand up…

thanks for the advice, i will try to have fun, but perfectionist tendencies sometime get in the way.

great stuff on here, gald to see the responses, as i need to have this finished by monday, yikes! pictures pending…

Quote:

“i understand the flow of the outline well be disrupted. rail lines being disrupted as well, i dont understand. with the brief time i have with some calipers, it appeared i ccould find spots on each have which would line up eveningly after shaving off a foot, two or three. bottom level even as possible, well remember this. when finished (do i dare say? yes!) ill think of the top being like one of those fancy step decks.”

Great way of looking at it

At some point you probably will be able to find segments that line up, and that will certainly will help your efforts.

Just try not to go TOO crazy with it.

I’m a bit OCD about symetry(like your perfectionist tendencies) but at some point it starts doing more harm than good.

One last tip and I’ll shut up…if it’s going to be off, better to have the front half be the larger of the two sections.

Especially in terms of width.

Just my 1.874 cents

Most guys use the pointed wooden dowells only to line up the two halves and keep it alighned during glassing.

Two separate operations. Don’t need to drill hole in the foam, the pointed wooden dowells just slide right in, after they’re slathered in resin, of course.

Work on a table so the halves can stay alighned, so you can see the mismatches, and leave it there till resin cures.

Seems couple wraps with 8oz is plenty for final glassing, and leave a slightly bulge …don’t sand flush or you remove all your glass wrap.

Hey, it’ll never look the same, surf the same, but it will work and it will fit inside your car.

Girlfriends always cost money, so think of it that way.

if you dont care too much, just read this line: surfboard halves reconnected, it was a heck of a project! or if your curiosity prevails, read on:

I had a vision of what i wanted, but the whole process completely exceeded my expectations. The board is now a 6’5". Ended up shaving off 2’7"(this was not preset, it just ended up the way, dont ask me how many times i sawed:)

I am proud of the technique i used to maintain the rocker while drying (strings, weights, same angled wall and board, eyeballing… :wink: but despite my thrill of finding workable solution(s) there was not one stage in the mending that didn’t throw me for a loop. Many oh _____ moments.

Now, as the board is, it could be surfed, but since the two halves did not line up flush (not a sharp bump, but rather gradual, more so on top than bottom) and since i did not fill the voids, post sanding has given way to some holes. I thought id just fill it with resin, re-glass, or just re-resin (glass includes resin and fiberglass, right?). Im skeptical of doing another wrap because of the weight. However, now that time isnt pressing, i am even tempted to cut the whole thing down again, and really zone in on lining it up, perhaps using a molded section from the sawed off foam to match the two halves. Or, i was thinking of possibly sanding it down to even the surface, but considering as many corners i ran into already, it may be best to leave it as is, until it snaps again, although it seems pretty damn strong with all that resin, fiberglass, and dowels and all.

I’ll get a photo on here to show you whats up.

Some key points which were learned and re-affirmed:

measure twice! that aint no joke. there was quite a bit more to measure than i realized…

supplies are key: had all the tools for it to work, but it would have been nice to have a cloth measuring tape, a new or properly fitting respirator, and a panel saw, or power saw and table to alow an inexperienced sawer to achieve flush and straight cuts.

time, time, time

resin, fiberglass, gorilla glue, catalyst, acetone: that is some toxic sh*t, i think ive been surfing too long, to finally realize or come to the opinion that considering what surf relies on, it is time to start seriously considering other means creating a surfboard. Theres definitely some great things out there, but i guess it all comes down to $ and …time.

heat dude! the shed has gotta be toasty man! This was really frustrating since time was tight.

wooden dowels and a little bit of GG, works really well. before i glassed, the halves seemed strong enough for a good paddle and ride.

Surfboards are one technical piece of equipment!

the internet is really cool. through out this process i thought about where id be with out the internet. swaylocks has provided very well. trial and error prevailed, but i definitely was able to overcome many obstacles with the click of a mouse.

explaining art & physics with regards to a surfboard, is, well thats may be something for another day.

thats all for now. thanks for reading and thanks to those for earlier input.

When you glue the two halves back together follow the Bill Barnfield method. The most important thing is the Rocker…

I’ve tried dowels and wood strips along the stringer. The strength comes from the glassing not from the dowels or wood strips along the stringer. I have posted many threads exploring the many ways I have repaired broken boards…The Bill Barnfield Method wins every time!

Good job(rsm)lol

Right on…oh yeah…gotta have a properly fitting respirator bro!

As I stated earlier and in full agreement with stingray, its ALL about aligning the bottom. Rocker, rocker, rocker.

For the future, if you want to find out about some alternative materials that work very well, let me know.

I’m glad to share any info I have learned.

And of course, always listen to the “old geezers” around here.(just kidding guys)

Quote:

As I stated earlier and in full agreement with stingray, its ALL about aligning the bottom. Rocker, rocker, rocker.

Couldn’t agree more. Plus -

Quote:

I’ve tried dowels and wood strips along the stringer. The strength comes from the glassing not from the dowels or wood strips along the stringer.

It has been my experience that while you may get a leetle psychological boost from putting dowels in the foam, they generally bollox up the alignment. Unless, of course, they are so small and so weak ( think ‘toothpick’ ) that they’d really contribute zero to the strength of the repair.

Besides which, the strength that dowels contribute- what is it? Well, you can kinda simulate it.

Go to your favorite bar. Order an Irish Coffee, you know, coffee plus a medium grade Irish whisky with whipped cream on top. Usually comes with a coupla straws so you don’t have a dab of whipped cream on the end of your schnoz while you’re getting to the good part.

The straws are crucial to this demonstration.

When your friendly neighborhood bartender puts the concoction down in front of you, typically the straws are to one side of the center. Turn the mug so the straws are on the far side, as far away from you as possible.

Okay, grasp the straws with both hands. And, exert all you strength and try to pull them through the whipped cream.

Gee… foam ain’t real resistant, is it? Sooooooo…putting dowels into foam ain’t real strong, is it?

Ah huh. Makes alignment difficult, adds minimal strength… don’t bother with 'em. I have cut apart and redone a bunch of snaps that some well meaning would be board fixer attempted to do with dowels. And the pieces didn’t line up at all. The saddest I saw was one where somebody drilled out 1 1/2" holes for a 3/4" dowel, then filled the rest with cabosil/resin mix. Most tail heavy board you ever saw…and it still had a twist in it.

As the late Frank Zappa said, “The crux of the biscuit is” …don’t do it…

doc…

Quote:
The saddest I saw was one where somebody drilled out 1 1/2" holes for a 3/4" dowel, then filled the rest with cabosil/resin mix. Most tail heavy board you ever saw...and it still had a twist in it.

You found my first love?!

ahh ha ha, just jokin, we probably couldn’t afford the cobosil in those sandy beach days.

I’m with you most of the way on this doc.

Sure, the dowels add zero structurally, and once the stringer has snapped there is no way to regain any advantage it may once have added,

but the one thing the dowels DO is somewhat hold the pieces in place so that you can work with what you have.

This is important ESPECIALLY for somebody that hasn’t done it before.

And yes, the dowells should be as small as possible. Just big enough to hold the pieces in place.

I use the little bamboo skewers you can get in the .99 cent store in bundles of 50.

They are big enough to hold things in place, but small enough to allow for adjustments.

To use an analogy like yours…imagine sitting at the dinner table with two pieces of an ear of corn…bla bla bla…Just kidding! LOL

Doc I would NEVER be so arrogant as to think I know enough to argue with you.

That’s just my point of view.

Hi Todd,

Not arguing either, just going from my experience at it…being what ya might call your ‘geezer’ type…While they add zero strength, my principal objection to dowels and the like is that they seem to mess up the alignment every time.

Lets take a typical snap and a quick and dirty sketch of it:

On top, the snap. Typically, it’s not a nice, clean, flat face of foam. Usually, some of the foam has been squashed permanently during the snap as well, so that it really can’t be relied on. If you put a snapped board back together, tight, they tend to have an angle in the rocker rather than a smooth curve.

So, lets say you stick in a dowel or skewer at your best guess of ‘flat’, I’ve exaggerated it some but you get the idea. And I have certainly seen worse. If you’re eyeballing it, wayull, it’s gonna be off. As will the placement of said skewer in the other half of the snap. And when you bring 'em together, you have a misalignment and to get it right, you gotta fight said skewer to do that.

Makes dowels…or even skewers…kinda counterproductive, doesn’t it. If your dowels are stiff enough to be of any use in holding things together, they will mess it up. And if they’re light enough so they will bend easily to the right alignment…they won’t hold anything usefully.

There is a way to get the dowels…or skewers…in there right.

Lets say you take something flat: a discarded hollow core door is nice for this, possibly the only thing they’re nice for. Or a long-ish pice of 2x12 or similar, temporarily attached to your repair rack. Something stiff and straight, anyhow…

Shim the two halves so the rocker is right, then pull 'em apart. Clamp one half to the door: a nylon strap works well, just don’t tighten too much lest you be dealing with two snaps rather than just the one. With a wood block ( not shown ) placed on the flat surfaceyou slide your skewer ( or drill ) along the surface, so you have something well nigh perfectly parallell to the door that shouldn’t be off very much at all when you bring the two halves together.

Anybody see the problem with this? Right - if you’re gonna have that nice flat surface to work off of, and take all that time to shim things and align things to get a clean rocker line…which dowels are supposed to do but never do right… then why bother with the damn dowels at all? Throw some glass on the deck and rails to hold it, plus maybe a very little white gorilla glue on the foam as adhesive and filler and then it’ll be stiff enough so you can flip it and glass the bottom and you’re pretty much done. Remember, the dowels add zero strength, so they’re not useful for that either.

So, there’s no need for 'em. At all/

No muss, no fuss, good alignment…and no dowels.

doc…

OK OK I GIVE UP! YOU WIN! LOL

I’m gonna print this out and put it in my book, “SECRETS OF THE GEEZERS” lol

Ya see Doc…some of us(me) just ain’t as smart as you.

You have certainly made your point…you’re way is better! (under my breath)[=Black][=1]still not as easy as just jammin some dowels in there though[ 3][ 2]

The thing that caught my eye the most was “white Gorilla Glue” HA HA Damn I want to find some of that stuff!

As always…your humble apprentice

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