Hey guys, I know this has something to do with laying the fiberglass but I cant get rid of them, everytime a glass a board I get them. Glassing with poly resin, double 4oz on deck. Maybe its bc of the dark color? I actually think this one looks cool, kinda like a wood grain. But Im still annoyed, any tips???
As of now this is all I have. I’ll get some more pics when I get home. The bottom is clear lam and looks good definitely not like this.
A little back story I lammed the bottom probably a month ago and laid the glass out on the board the next day assuming I would glass it soon after. Low and behold it sat there. The weave looked misaligned when I finally got back to it but since it sat so long the first layer of fiberglass was stuck to the laps lol. So I left it alone and glassed it. I swear I left enough resin on the board but it looks kind of dry to me.
Side note** I laminated in the morning and had rising temps through the day idk what that does but I’ve heard I should avoid it.
No idea! The things you have suggested though don’t have anything to do with it. My questions are; Why is it so dark? Is that colorant? The “wood grain” effect would not occur in a normal lamination. I can’t even tell by those pics and your description; What you have done?? Is that a tinted bottom and a tinted deck? Leaving the cloth on the deck for so long May be the problem. Your cutlap under the deck cloth may have been still wet. Leaving the dry cloth on the deck may have allowed resin from the bottom to soak into the deck cloth along the rail. The old saying “first resin to hit the cloth” may apply. The bottom may have sealed your deck cloth enough to prevent proper saturation when you lammed the deck. Sometimes cloth seems dry, but it may not be set. Is that a veneer? Timber-flex?? Lowel
The weave looks dry like a saturation problem. It also looks like it’s been stretched unevenly. The color resembles sun damage, what you’d get if the sun was getting to the blank. The runs from the lamination on the other side really look strange. I’m stumped.
Oh, that color is the brown pigment I used lol. The rails I swirled grey and white together. I screwed up the swirl by making my base too dark and the swirl never came through. I used the remaining white and grey color on the rails. I believe I may not have “worked” the resin down enough into the cloth, I poured it down the middle and squeegeed it off but I did not work it into the cloth which I’m thinking is my problem. It looked perfect at first then dried weird.
mcding I used two layers of 4 oz E cloth on the deck
I will have better pictures for you guys today. Stand by. .
At this stage of a new builder’s progress they shouldn’t even be doing color in their laminations, and they especially shouldn’t be doing abstracts. Job#1 at this stage is getting the clean lamination in clear. You want to build boards that will last, and that starts with getting the clean and tight lamination that won’t leak. Work clean to get clean. That’s hard enough to do well all by itself. The opaques and tints and abstracts are “jewelry” that good glassers add for fun when they get bored with doing clears.
I’ll put this challenge to you: when you can get a clean lamination and gloss/polish in clear with cutlaps (that don’t need to be covered with pinlines) then you’re ready to move on to single color tints and opaques. Abstract slob jobs come after that. Chances are 50/50 that by the time you get to that point you won’t even think the abstracts are as cool as the clean tint+cutlap. Don’t worry about not not being able to pull chicks if you’re not rocking the “look at me” board under your arm at the beach. People who know surfboard building will instantly notice a no-logo board in clear that is glassed well. Especially if you can surf it.
Anyways and as you suspect, you didn’t get great saturation of the cloth and now there are going to be some pinhole leaking and adhesion problems later on. My advice is to finish the board off with a sanded finish and take it out to surf it for what it is. Put a couple sessions on it and then start planning for your next project. Next time, slow down and give the resin a little more time to soak in. You’re not getting paid by the piece so there’s no reason to rush. The one thing your vid shows that can come in handy at this stage of your progression is the way the glasser mixed and laminated and wrapped one side at a time. If you do that then you can really take your time laying your resin down to get the full saturation and the clean wrap on the rails. Do one side completely first, then do the other side after that. Once you get good enough that doing halves is getting in your way then you can switch it up to do it all in one batch of resin.
Yeah I agree with you, I’m jumping ahead. The halves method was awesome bc I finally got a nice fully saturated rail. It tucked so nicely.
I got to see the board today. I just didn’t work the resin into all the cloth enough it’s definitely a dry lam. I will hot coat it and surf it and it will be great. Just gives me an excuse for the wife to make another one!
It looks like on your double layer of cloth you got air between the layers and you pulled too much resin out. Wet everything out very well and don’t be stingy with the resin work the resin in and then work from the center out pulling out excess resin without being overly aggressive.
I think your right mako. Now I understand why so many shapers dish off their boards to other people to glass them. I struggle in this department. Finding the happy medium of too much pressure and not enough pressure on the squeegee is very hard. Especially when the clock is tickin!
I think you should relax a little on this. Everyone has war stories like this. Nobody was born with these skills. We all had to start at the beginning and work our own progression. The shape looks like it will certainly surf so that’s the more important point anyway. I’m sure the next one will go easier for you.