If you have any experience with glassing one of these boards please chim in, I am worried about resin dripping into the board, finboxes, and a leash plug.
I have not. But I would definitely be looking at a wet-out table if I had to glass one, there used to be some pretty good videos in the archives.
I’m guessing you would need to use gravity as an aid. Rocker table, wet out the cloth, and lay the skeleton into/ onto the wet cloth…
Use plastic sheeting between the wrt cloth and the rocker table, so when you wrap the rails, pull and tape off the plastic, and the cloth comes along for the ride. Also really tight weave cloth, so the resin/ epoxy doesn’t drain from the cloth.
Basically, do everything upside down.
For payment for that tip, bring more fish to plaskett. Its been too long.
Search youtube. I saw at least one video of a guy glassing one of those back when that was anew thing. He used a brush. Might have taped the cloth around the rails to keep it tight too.
This came up about a year ago, takes some digging to get to the videos.
https://www.wavescape.co.za/surf-news/breaking-news/call-that-a-surfboard.html
Video looks painful.
all the best
You can say that again!
Just out of curiosity, how much does the “blank” weigh at this point?
The pics of the ones that have been glassed show that they’re having problems getting adhesion due to the lack of adequate surface area. After all they’re attempting to bond to the currugation itself, not the skin of the cardboard. Then I’m wondering if they’re going to have problems with internal vs external pressure. And lastly, how are they stabilizing the fin systems, 'cause routing them into a cardboard frame ain’t gonna do it.
Why not lay up a sheet of 4 oz on a layup table and let it kick. Cut it to fit the outline and glue it (with resin) to the cardboard and cleanup or cut off/sand any excess. Would require a rocker table, but the indentations from cloth sagging with resin weight would be minimized. Do both sides then glass with another layer of 4 or 6 oz for strength.
Agreed, sagging would be a problem.
I had similar thoughts about using a wetout table. Drewtang’s use of FG cloth and resin laid up on a plate of glass, for templates, gave me the idea. Maybe even lay up some 2.5-oz cloth.
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/504326#comment-504326
https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/511569#comment-511569
I remember seeing the cardboard, living room. paint brush glass job in this thread:
https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/swaylocks-we-created-monster
Brilliant, surfthis.
All the best
This is the youtube site of the guy that started it. Mike Sheldrake.
https://www.youtube.com/user/mesheldrake/videos
This is a video from a guy that bought the kit.
After watching that video again, I think it would be better to use a wetout table, then roll the glass onto a roll then roll it over the frame. There was a guy here who was glassing that way with good results. I think he cut the laps after the glass was laid onto the board.
Back when Bamboo cloth was the rage we used a 2 sided tape that would hold the bamboo cloth stretched over the board. That might be an option if you want to wet it out on the frame. Also wondering if you do the rails with a strip of glass first, you’d have a solid frame/surface to work off of for the top and bottom.
Honestly, I still think Huck’s approach to HWS construction remains the most viable way to bypass the use of a foam core.
Thanks for the info everyone, that helps. I will post some pics when I am done
Or there is the chambered foam frame (torsion box cells) with added skins.
If the frame was made with a light weight waterproof composite, I’d be keen to build one of these. Not willing to make the cardboard version. I have a hollow wood balsa I made and have used, but if it were to leak, I don’t think I could get to the beach before it would be filled.
One good ding in a cardboard grid board and the core would turn to mush. Game over.