I was thinking of trying to make a long 48inch board. Do yah think a nice thick piece of Poplar would hold up?
We’ve always used old waterskis cut down-you can even use the nose for tail kick-yard sale waterskis, a sabersaw and a drill and you’ll be styling.
I was thinking of trying to make a long 48inch board. Do yah think a nice > thick piece of Poplar would hold up? There is a whole forum on this subject at NCDSA.com, with a good search feature. http://www.ncdsa.com/gen_tab1.asp Most people use marine plywood instead of a plank for better flex and to prevent splitting. Some flex makes these boards way more fun, a lot easier to pump. Drill the truck holes before you cut the template, otherwise it’s a bitch to get them straight. Dan
There is a whole forum on this subject at NCDSA.com, with a good search > feature. http://www.ncdsa.com/gen_tab1.asp>>> Most people use marine plywood instead of a plank for better flex and to > prevent splitting. Some flex makes these boards way more fun, a lot easier > to pump. Drill the truck holes before you cut the template, otherwise it’s > a bitch to get them straight.>>> Dan I was looking to make it 48" Classic Longboard Style, so I think I would like the board stiff…more of a cruiser or noserider…what do yah think?
I was looking to make it 48" Classic Longboard Style, so I think I > would like the board stiff…more of a cruiser or noserider…what do yah > think? …Any deck over say,38" tends to flex alot.If you want a stiffer board here’s a tip.Go buy a 4" by 8" sheet of 9ply burch, have it milled @ the lumber yard. in 4 equal sections"(four 12" x 8’sheets),then mill all 4 sheets in half ,width wise,(eight 12" x 4’sheets).Glue two of the sheets together ,giving you a double thick blank. use a good glue like epoxy.Don’t use polyester resin,it won’t hold up in the long run. …you can also do this with just 1/8" burch or mohogany door skin,but it will cost you more glue.White glue with work,but you have to seal your blank well or it will delam quickly when it is exposed to moisture. …FIBERGLASSING WOOD:is in it self a whole different ballgame.Burch again is better for this than maple ,because it is more porse ,and soft and saturates more/better.If you airbrush/paint your woods before you lam with poly ,ALL I CAN SAY IS GOOD LUCK,delam is very close at hand,and epoxy stays stuck better,but eats the sh*t out of the colors in you paint job. …It can all be done at home with very crude/inexpensive methods,with factory results,it’s just knowing what your doing that counts.Heck I JUST FINISHED A 9 PLY super concaved racer that is a double ender with carbonfiber layers inbetween the 3 ply sections of burch door skin.Most people,(even the pros) would think it was a factory pressed blank.Herb
herb how long can you make them before they flex alot? i mean i weigh right at 200 and i want one of those sector 9 luke nosewalkers but i dont wanna pay for it ya know? thanks austin
herb how long can you make them before they flex alot? i mean i weigh > right at 200 and i want one of those sector 9 luke nosewalkers but i dont > wanna pay for it ya know? thanks austin …I think I stated that,38"Herb
…I think I stated that,38"Herb Poplar can be used. In the last couple of years snowboard companies have started to switch from spruce to poplar in the cores, it is cheap and has a good flex pattern. If you go that route you’ll most likely want to reinforce it with 'glass or carbon. Use epoxy and consider using unidirectional fibers. I’m in the process of building a couple of boards for myself. They are going to be about 45" long and I’m doing them to experiment with different resins, cores, and fibers. Matthew http://www.siempresurf.com
i was curious if you had built any longer than 38" and i was wondering if you have pictures of some of the boards you built?
i was curious if you had built any longer than 38" and i was > wondering if you have pictures of some of the boards you built? …yes,on both.Herb
Nevermind the skateboard, anyone tried that “carveboard” (yeah, I know, a big skateboard)…but it looks way fun. Anyone made their own? They are VERY expensive (like 3 and a 1/2 bills, commercially…YIKES!).
would you be so kind to email me some of the pictures? my email address is thanks again.
oh yea i have a carveboard too and its CRAZY fun.
Tom, I do quite a bit of hill carving here in SF – and I’ve tried the Carve board. It’s wild for sure. The thing that separates them from a traditional down hill board is that you can literally push as hard as you can and it won’t slide out. With traditional boards you’re always holding back a bit – esp at speed. S
Austin - get the Nosewalker, I have a variety of long sk8’s and the Nosewalker is my favorite. Not what I’d consider a carver, but long and wide enough to cross step on and at 180 lbs. I can plant 10 on the nose with the rear wheels still on the ground - throw in a little soul arch and you’ve got the nose wheelie going, fun stick.