each and every one of us
has the option to believe
we live in the
best place in the world.
what three things make
where you live so very
wonderful and have indelibly
marked you.
keeping one’s focus on these things
is imperative…
aloha,clean aire,and clean water
…ambrose…
things to overlook and overcome
attitude,traffic congestion,and harsh sunlight
Thick pitch pine forests that hide quail and deer… growing tall out of sandy soil and reaching for the sky…
Cold, empty beaches and stiff offshores after a Nor’Easter that brings perfect tubes and ice cream headaches…
Children running for blocks through backyards in the few minutes of daylight…hiding and laughing…until it’s time for dinner.
Clean cold water (gives you that fresh, wake-up feeling)
Empty waves, lack of crowds
Driving through empty country/no traffic getting to above cold, clean expanses of ocean
overcomers: sharks, traffic going the other places, general insanity of my fellow humans
that certain feeling on a warm autumn morning with fresh fragrant offshores and clean groundswell running down a pointbreak that Morning of the Earth is still alive;
cow paddocks next to the beach full of fat contented cows;
high performance pointbreaks with a 9 month season
downers:
the fact that in 20 years time this place will be like southern California;
new freeways bringing crowds with city attitudes
wankers riding jestskis who don’t want to paddle when the surf is overhead
Killer Dana was gone before I was old enough. I remember Salt Creek before sponges and when SanO had water tankers. My son still has a great time at both spots. The surf is still there amidst the urban growth and you can be ON IT if you pay attention (and save your sick days for surf).
Winter swell dawn patrols and summer after work glass offs. If you want it you can get it. The majority don’t sit deep and go steep. Porpoise playing and we got waves. I have fun. This is where I live. Get some.
Only three things? Being part of a relatively small surf community some how stashed away among the mega surf ghettoes of the 21 century, clean-cold water, and beauty everywhere I look. Mike
surf . then there we have the islands and the mountains all within 30-45 minutes from the beach.
Texas: warm water beaches, sun!, cool green woods, balmy year round temp average, limestone hill country with cool green rivers, sweet iced tea, and friendly people like my family.
Trees. There are more trees in this city than you could imagine. I have had some special times in and among trees.
Beautiful clear balmy today: trimming perfect green waist-high lines for 100 yards or more, 80 degree water (felt like 76), dolphins jumping on the outside, about 2 dozen friendly surfers of all ages and both genders scattered over a square mile as the beach breaks everywhere.
Ups… The suns warm sunrise over the ocean and its calming effect setting over the sound… Sculpted wispy beach grass dunes overlooking perpetually changing sand bars creating amazing “best new breaks” after punishing nor easters… The glow of my children helping built our next “best board ever” …and their radiant ear to ear smile as I leave my father hat on the rack at home and we share an intense soulful bond surfing… screaming and cheering wave after wave,all stoked like children… downs… negative people… bad karma, fast food.
no matter where I live this is what makes it all worth it to me -
the ability to surf (I thank God for this, it is truly the greatest gift, beyond my family, that He has provided me)
the smell of salt air walking down the planks to check the surf
paddling out at dark and watching sun rise while sitting on your board, alone in silence, only thing you hear is yourself breathing and thinking and the movement of the water
surfing for 3 or more days in a row and coming home after dawn patrolling to have coffe with my wife and being haraased by my kids telling me “you went surfing AGAIN…”
taking the family to the beach, surfing, hanging, and having my wife tell me “I’m so glad we live here…”
pushing my girls into shorebreak on their boogie boards and seeing the thrill of it all on their face when they get a ride
trying so hard to explain why I own different surfboards and their designs to my girls and they just gloss over and roll their eyes
sand in my lace ups, salt in my hair, nosedraining while at my desk
after surf naps
sorry I just couldn’t do only 3
…just have to mention how fun it is to carve and swoop and soul arch around the neighborhood and the park handsfree on my cruiser (with my dog) at dusk because I got to go surfing yesterday and the weather is so perfect right now and I feel so great having carved and swooped and soul arched on those green banks yesterday
just digging being alive and knowing the joy of drawing S curves and french curves on the beautiful earth with body english
love it!
Sydneys best wave (in my oppinion) shark island a few minutes walk away.
waves that warp 180 degrees from start to finish.changing contours of the tube shape from round to bottoming out to triple sucking foamballs.
around 20 other reefs within 20 minutes drive, 9 being world class on their day.
Cool older legend locals who really care what your up to and help out younger
brothers .
unfortunatley it lacks the vibe that this place had in the 90’s and is now becoming overrun with greedy groms,yuppies and wankers.
Time to head south.
very nice question you ask sir ambrose
for me its the massive 2nd or third growth doug fir and spruce forest, that hide elk…ravens and owls…200inches of rain brings green green green flowers
going to the river to harvest dungeness crabs, or going out to the ocean to harvest salmon for fresh eatin and smokin…
cold water brings thick wet suits and minimal crowds…