The above is one of those dates that are burned into my memory. Here it is 58 years later, and it seems like yesterday. WindanSea was about as large as it gets. Crowding 15 feet. The day was glassy and overcast, and the swell was a very strong south. All the ‘‘regulars’’ were out, and even some ‘‘visitors’’ from other venues. Dempsey Holder was up from the TJ Sloughs, and Kit Horn showed up in a suit and tie, borrowed a board and some trunks, and was out there in a flash. Later in the day, Jim Fisher, Wayne Land, Butch, Diff, Curren, Al Nelson, Ronald Patterson, and several others, went down to North Bird Rock, and picked off some solid 15 foot waves. The waves were so large, that you could see them taking off, at North Bird, from the lineup at WindanSea. You could see them going right, looking through the tube from the left side. To say that it was an epic day, doesn’t do it justice. That was my first taste of what I considered really big waves, and firmed my resolve to one day ride big waves in Hawaii. WindanSea was the ideal ‘‘training ground’’ for that kind of adventure. That day was the most crowded I’d seen WindanSea, up to that point in time. There were 22 people out. Times sure have changed, eh?
Anybody have pics of this swell?
Sadly, there are no photo’s of that day, that I am aware of. There just were not many folks taking pictures back then. Not like today, when a 2 foot ripple will have 10 tripods on the beach. It would be two years before John Severson’s The Surfer would come out, stimulating an interest in surf photography.
To put my own life in perspective…I was still pooping in my diapers while you and your buddies were charging it! Thanks for sharing with me Bill. Mike
Not quite an ‘‘adventure’’, but a formative experience, as it related to my surfing. And I suppose to my surfboard building. I can assure you that I was influenced by that ‘‘regular crew’’ at WindanSea, that had so many notable surfers in it. They were the ‘‘stars’’ in most of the surf movies of those days. They were on the cutting edge. I paid attention to the things they did, and said. That day in August 1958, really focused my resolve, as to what I wanted to do in surfing. Two years later, I was shaping for Velzy.
Jim Fisher shaped my entire quiver circa 1990 out of the WRV shop in Point Harbor NC (just off the OBX). Traveled the northern hemisphere with those boards. Still have two of those boards and I use them as examples of well shaped boards. RIP.
Aloha Gunkie,
It’s a different Jim Fisher. The fellow I’ve referred to, as far as I know, has never shaped a surfboard. I’ve shaped boards for (my) Jim Fisher since 1962. He was a North Shore big wave pioneer circa 1952, and roomed with the likes of Buzzy Trent, Walt Hoffman and Bob Simmons, back in the day. Early Bud Brown surf films featured Fisher in monster 30 foot Makaha, in the 1952 thru 1954 period.
Wow very cool Bill thanks for sharing. My parents were still in diapers in 1958!!!
Ah, thanks Bill. I just figured since Jim Fisher is such a unique and one of a kind name… Well, the dates and projected ages kind of matched up. The Jim Fisher I knew starred in California, went to Maui for quite a while and then was a journeyman shaper who worked at WRV for a bunch of years (late-80’s-late 90’s) mostly in the winter months.
Those days are gone now, but the memory lingers on. Here it is sixty years later, (almost to the day) and that day is still a vivid memory. Right on down to the small pod of three Killer Whales, that came through mid-day, just outside the lineup. Quite a special part of my life experience. It firmed my resolve to someday get to Hawaii, and ride some ‘‘real’’ big surf. And, as fortune smiled on me, I did just that and more.
Epic line up. Dempsey Holder, whew!
I had the pleasure of talking (listening) to Kit horn on the Malibu pier and he was one of the nicest, most humble guys (Legends) I’ve met to date. Having the luck of living across Kam Hwy from Sunset, I have run into plenty of hot shots. There is something about the older pioneer crowd that differed frrom the stars of the day. They let their actions speak instead of always chest pounding and self promotion. They deserve the admiration. There is a quiet satisfaction it seems amongst them. That, I can respect. Aloha to the silent Heros.
Great story. Thanks Bill.