Bamboo the wrong way or the "O"-way

General Discussion
1

didn’t want to clog Greg Tates great post so I started a new one on a similar topic.

Seems like there’s lots of questions about the stuff

I’ve probably messed around with the stuff more than any regular poster here going back 4-5 years now. First of all here’s some pictures of the stuff we’ve done over the years and then I’ll make my comments on the experience. Pictures are always a good way to start.

Okay here goes

#1 its crap to work with

#2 its hell easier than glueing up strips

#3 its hard as a rock but will still flex ( I once told Brian its nature’s version of carbon fiber)

#4 it will not puncture like glass when banged

#5 equivalent to 1-2 layers of 6oz glass

#6 because of #3 and #4 its prone to delams

#7 because of #3 and #4 its makes one hell of a deck patch versus a glass patch

#8 runs $30-$40 for a 4’x8’ panel enough to do both sides of an 8’ including material for springers

#9 you cut it with tin snips

#10 you need to sand the coating off before laminating it

#11 it will not wrap a rail like balsa

#12 harder to use and thicker than the flat cut bamboo veneer

#13 creates a cross axial bias with the weave especially when sandwiched between two layers of glass

#14 we use 2oz under and 4oz over

#15 its available here in Hawaii at Homedepot, Lowes and City Mill under the brand name Simlopan(sp)

#16 it can be purchased at Franks Cane Supply on the mainland

#17 the best way to do veneers is to bag the entire inner glass+veneer+outer glass on at the same time

#18 we’ve moved on and only use it sparsely nowadays to lock in fin boxes to the blank and as deck patches

#19 if your can figure out how to do it it may make one hell of a thin and easy to mount perimeter stringer I’m suprised the flat veneer folks haven’t thought about this one yet, You can create a super stiff super thin and light perimeter band and then a layer of PU or high density on the outside of it.

Oh yeah you can make one hell of a light and stiff board when you use it as a shell over 1lb EPS. If that’s your thing.

In the end, we now understand that proper design is way more important than materials.

Hope this helps

2

bernie what pics

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The “O” way is the right way to do bamboo if you ask me.

Looks gorguous and super strong.

Yes, the woven bamboo is kinda hell to work with but well worth the effort IMHO.

In my experiece it has to be vac bagged to the foam or you have a delam before it hits with water.

Big-big-big-big-big tip I’ve discovered throughout playing with bamboo veneers and weaves:

Use ResinX Slow to adhere the bamboo veneers. Gives you enough time to position the lam on the board. It’s quick curing, very strong bond, flexible, and a little thicker than epoxy to fill in the spaces in the weave. Makes life much easier.

~Brian

www.greenlightsurfsupply.com

4

Brian

you’re correct you need bag the bamboo on to the foam using epoxy with a light layer of glass 1oz or 2oz works best but you can use just epoxy and even PU glue if desperate.

The slowest setup epoxy we’ve found is System Three super slow and you’ll need to leave it in the bag for 10-12 hours before it’ll safely set. We haven’t found anything with a longer work time but the epoxy is nasty stuff, I’ve already developed a sensitivity to it from working with it early on.

Using a flexible a resin as possible like RR 2020 or ResinX is another way to enhance it’s properties.

The main guru on bamboo skinned EPS/XPS boards or NFB Natural Fiber Boards is Gary Young and he uses epoxy saturated bamboo in place of fiberglass cloth and seals the deal with clear puncture proof film probably the same stuff they use to bomb proof glass windows. The stuff is available at most tinting places.

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Bernie, all good. Yes, you easily have seniority over all of us here on Sways. Thanks for the pics. I’ve admired your woven bamboos for a long time. I’ll try Lowes soon to get some.

On my next one I am going to try to bag the veneer around the rails and not use balsa. The flat veneer is flexible enough I think.

You are dead on about the toughness and stiffness.

I have made several foam boards with laminated bamboo perimeter rails. Works well. I just use three layers and still cut it with shears.

Overall, I just think for skins it is easier than piecing together balsa .

You are also dead on with your comment about shape over materials. That was what I was whining about in my earlier post about being decent board builder but a marginal shaper/designer. Shape trumps materials every day.