Band saw help needed.

Hey all,

I’ve just had my first band saw delivered, and all looks great. Much searching and comparing of features and prices turned up a Fox 6" depth of cut jobby. The throat isn’t huge, but I don’t need it to be for what I bought it for, so that’s fine.

The only fault or moan I have is this; the operational instructions are in French. Nothing wrong with that in itself, just that I don’t speak much French and my 15 year old son is threatening to charge for interpreting it…Cheeky so and so, I paid for his French lessons.

What I need to know is how I go about checking and setting the blade tension and tracking, and any other general set up stuff.

All help will be gratefully received.

Thanks heaps in advance.

grainsurf.com/forum

there’s a woodworking forum, I believe someone posted a really handy PDF guide to bandsaws.

if you can’t find it, let me know and I’ll try to dig it up.

Haven’t got time right now, but I will check my manual tonight and try and give you a proper translation.

Thanks both,

I’ve only just had chance to get a proper look at it, the roller bearing guides are not in contact with the blade; is that correct or do I need to adjust those aswell?

tHANKS AGAIN

tons of info on woodworking forums w/ pics and vids no sense repeating it all here, do a google search on band saw set up or similar here’s one example

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wk_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_14429_2278285,00.html

For most all bandsaws those rollers need to touch the blade, barely, and the need to spin when the saw is turned on, due to the contact with the blade. The purpose of them is to stop the blade slowly and keep it minimally on track. There should be a knob at the top or side if the saw that will adjust the tension, youll know because it moves the large wheels on the inside, the tension should be set to the blade width… else you will notice the blade will pop and there will be 80" of flying steel going somewhere.

Hi Jase;

First off…new bandsaw! Cool! Nothing like a new tool to make life fun.

Next- I myself like the roller bearing guides ( the ones behind the blade, as opposed to roller bearing guide sets all around) on my Grizzly to be just kissing the blade, as it were. They’ll go back to run on that when the saw is in use.

Meanwhile…manuals for a Jet? No problemo - see http://content.jettools.com/manuals/man_708113A.pdf for the [=1][ 4]

[=Black][ 2]JWBS-14OS model and if that’s not the right one, wayull, have a look through http://woodworking.jettools.com/Results.aspx?cat=333152 and see what corresponds closest to yours. Go to that page and there oughtta be a manual link there. [/][/]

I regret that they’re in American, rather than English, but just muddle through, I guess, the numbers will be pretty much the same.

Oh, and two other things: upgrade the stock blade as soon as you can, though I’m afraid I can’t find you a source for something like the Suffolk Timberwolf blades in the UK. And don’t forget to take the tension off the blade after you’re done sawing - it’s good for the tires, the wheels and the bearings in the long run.

Have fun…

doc… bandsawholic…[/][/]

Again thanks everyone for the help and the links, I’ll get a look through them properly tomorrow as it’s got a bit late now. I just found a book on my bookshelf an hour or so ago (forgot I’d bought it) with some good band saw advice. Just need to work out how much tension is enough tension. Hopefully sort that with one of the links.

Dead right Doc, new tools are the next best thing to old tools. I cant wait to find some recyclable timber to resaw and make into something rideable.

My wife’s just told me I’m weird for talking to folk I’ve never seen about band saws at five to midnight. Women eh?

Check out thewoodwhrisperer.com episode 13. It should cover everything that you need to get a band saw up and running.

Quote:
What I need to know is how I go about checking and setting the blade tension and tracking, and any other general set up stuff.

Do you have crowned or flat tires on the wheels? Smaller saws usually have the crowned tires and would have all size blades for the saw run in the middle of the wheels. But bigger saws that have flat tires run bigger blades so the teeth are overhanging the wheels and smaller blades in the center.

With the saw unplugged. Adjust/loosen both top and bottom blade guides out so as to not touch the blade when installed. Install a blade and use the tension meter for the saw for that size blade. Spin the top wheel by hand and adjust the tracking so that the blade runs on both wheels where you want it as mentioned above, then lock tracking.

If the blade does not ride on both wheels in the same place then that is a more advanced adjustment of getting the wheels coplanar, but you should be good with a new saw if nothing got messed up in shipping.

With the blade on, tension and tracking adjusted, bring the guides to just barely touching the blade. This can take some getting used to. You don’t want any guide pushing on the blade and deflecting it. You want them all to be just barely touching as if the blade was running free.

Plug saw in and have fun.

Good- well, afternoon, I guess, Jase;

To my regret, I just realised that the Jets and the Fox saws are…well, ‘dissimilar’ covers it. However, having had a further look around, I’m guessing you have one of these: http://www.poolewood.co.uk/acatalog/Fox_F28-195_18__Band_Saw.html . Couldn’t find a manual, but I’m thinking http://www.axminster.co.uk/downloads//manual_ccbb.pdf should be pretty close: both use an 1820mm blade and …well, they look quitre similar.

That manual doesn’t give a whole lot of info about blade tensioning though, beyond ‘tension the bandsaw blade’. But, here’s how I do it.

First, with the top cover off it and the upper and lower guides set loose, tension the blade lightly and turn the upper wheel by hand and make sure the blade tracks right down centred on the upper wheel. Do this with every new blade, they vary from the factory.

Set your guides. They reccommend .5mm clearance between blade and guides, a piece of paper works fine as a gauge. Looking at the above manual, I’d definitely recommend replacing the cross-point ( Phillips, in the States) screws in the clamping setup they use ( again, your’s may vary ) with hex head socket screws and acquiring a T-shaped hex wrench for them, it’ll make life a lot easier in the future. Those damned Philips screws… well, a bit of fine sawdust in there and you strip the screw head and then where are you, y’know?

Adjust your upper guide to the top, as high as it’ll go. Tension it to where you can’t deflect the blade more than about a quarter inch side-side- call it 5mm - with gentle pressure. Start it up, if the blade ‘flutters’ then it needs more tension. If it’s not tracking right, adjust the tracking too. Then, set your upper guide to the right height and there you are.

And - this isn’t exactly a giant saw, so, especially if you’re resawing, give the blade a shot of vegetable oil kitchen spray now and then. It works and it won’t stain the wood. Learned that one from my local sawmill guy…

Now, have fun…as I expect you’ve been sawing things up all morning, that’s probably a little after the fact…

doc…

Thanks Doc, kick ass advice as always.

That’s the one, cheap and cheerful but hopefully adequate. In fact that’s where I bought it as well.

The guides already have hex (allen key) screws rather than crappy philips.

The blade is awful and the first time I spun it up a screw fell out from the bottom wheel (now replaced with a slightly longer one). The motor’s really quiet though, I was expecting much more noise.

I’m not sure that it’s going to be up to the 6" cut it claims capable of, but its way smooth for cutting curves so stringers will be made in abundance. I have a friend who can do all my heavy resawing work when I need it.

The veg oil is a top tip.

Thanks again. I’ll post some shots when I’ve made something.

Thanks Glen,

excellent stuff, really helped. Thanks.

The tyres as you thought are crowned (very slightly). Once I’d replaced the screw that fell out of the bottom wheel first time it was powered up, it all seems to run straight and true. As I said to Doc, I dont think its going to manage the 6" cut it claims capable of, but hey, it’ll be damned useful for all sorts of other stuff. Just need to get a couple of decent blades for it now, the one supplied is pretty crap.

Thanks again.

Hi Jase,

You’ll be amazed at how much better the saw works with a really good blade, I think. That and slow feed, you can get through anything. That, by the way, is a nice little saw. While I don’t know if I’d want to subject it to a constand diet of full-depth resawing, cutting curves in ~25-30mm stuff, well, it’ll do that as long as you want it to. Cutting outline shapes on blanks, for instance, should be silly-easy, especially with a plywood auxiliary table. Or if you wanted to do a chambered wood board.

And I’ll bet the vibration will go down considerably with a better blade - the cheap blades tend to be cheaply welded, which in turn makes a long hard spot where the heat treatment of the blade changes a great deal, and when that goes over the wheels it vibrates the things a lot, frame flexing a little, things falling out and what have you.

Oh, and, just touch the blade with a chip brush moistened with veg oil, do it both sides, no need to hit it with spray.

Now, have fun…

doc…

Hey Doc

I’ve had a bit of a play with it over the weekend, and it does cut beautifully around curves on anything up to an inch thick, but then you really have to slow the pass down to not stress it. Ive tried ripping a piece of 4" thick beech with it and it really didn’t like it and only got a cm in when I decided to not hurt it anymore. I’ll try it again when I change the blade.

The vibration doesn’t seem to be an issue, it all seems really stiff and stable which I was pleased with.

I’m putting a bigger table together which will clamp to the existing one with a a couple of legs at the rear for extra support so that I can cut some longer stuff easier. I’m also making a couple of rollers to fix into my shaping/glassing stands…talk about multi purpose, must needs when yer garage is tiny.

The chambered board idea was the whole point in purchasing the band saw, not really a chambered as such though; kind of a chambered/hollow hybrid, but deffinately need a band saw for it.

So its off to the shops for some new blades and a bottle of Mazola (do you get Mazola in the states?)

Cheers Doc.

Hi Jase,

Yeah, the teeth per inch on the blade kinda drive how well it cuts in a particular thickness, that’s probably what’s giving you problems with the thicker stuff. That and the shape of the teeth, the bevels of 'em… http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/default.asp has a lot of information. You might also want to email 'em, see if anybody in the UK handles their blades. I’ve been delighted with 'em. Cut so much better than anything else I have used, it’s almost silly.

Ah, Beech. F. Sylvatica and its American cousin. Lovely tree, might be my favorite tree to look at and sit under, especially the variant with the copper-red leaves. Mine just hit 20 meters high, as measured with a sextant, and I hope to live to see it at 30 meters. Pretty wood too, nice grain, nice color…but what a beech to cut, pun intended. Still, if you can cut that, the next step would be ripping aluminum bar stock.

Your table design sounds excellent. Formica on top, if you have any scrap about, and you can make one fine outfeed table. Trick #47, set some lag bolts ino the bottoms of the legs, such that you can fine-tune the table height and tilt. If you want to be fancy, threaded inserts and plain bolts will work too, but I think plain lags are just fine.

Roller stands are also good, and if you can find some of those gizmos that look like ball-bearing stands, even better. Something like this, lets say: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-3-Row-Ball-Bearing-Stand/dp/B001DT12FE/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1226921463&sr=1-28 - the advantages for that type of roller and a bandsaw ae considerable.

If you can’t find one of those and don’t want to figure, don’t worry. Ball-bearing rolling pins make nice outfeed rollers, they’re relatively cheap and the wood they are made of won’t mar the wood you’re working on. Getting the axes of the rollers perpendicular to the path the wood takes is important, lest the roller pull your wood to the left or right while cutting.

And making things multi-purpose? Oh yeah…no matter how big your shop is, give or take Zeppelin hangars, you will always find 'em crowded. Remember Doc’s First Law of Tools: The number and volume of tools always expands to overfill available space.

Heh- we have Mazola here, all right. There’s even Mazola parties here and there, or so I’m told…

Have fun…

doc…

Hey Doc,

cheers loads for the helpful hints and links.

“Ah, Beech. F. Sylvatica and its American cousin. Lovely tree, might be my favorite tree to look at and sit under, especially the variant with the copper-red leaves. Mine just hit 20 meters high, as measured with a sextant, and I hope to live to see it at 30 meters. Pretty wood too, nice grain, nice color…but what a beech to cut, pun intended. Still, if you can cut that, the next step would be ripping aluminum bar stock.”

I’m sure we’ve chatted about the beauty of the copper beech tree previously, they are my favourite to look at, especially when there’s just the odd few set amongst other green varieties, really sets off that gorgeous red foliage. Even more so against a really dark and wet sky with the sun shining on them from the opposite side of the sky, mmmmmmmmmmm extra heavy summer storms.

I saw some of those roller thingies in “cheap” Charlies some years back and didn’t need any at the time, no longer selling them, crap!

Didn’t think abot the formica top, does that help the work to slide about better? I was hoping to route a mitre guage slot in the top for squaring up the rib ends among other jobs. I couldn’t remember what those screw out feet things you get on kitchen units were called, are they LAG bolts? That was what I intended to use on the legs, it’ll be limited to 90 degree cuts, I don’t think I’ll ever need to cut much that long at an angle, and if I do I’ll take it to the table saw instead.

Rolling pins; what a brilliant idea. My idea was a little more work. Several 1" long sections of PVC Waste pipe with skateboard bearings and wood bushes on a 12" length of threaded bar, seperated by spacers to 1/8" apart, fixed to a wide U bracketted stand. Hopefully that should allow the wood to not get dragged off course…maybe!

Mazola parties? that’s plain weird. You need to get yourself an invite to one of those and report back on WTH happens there. I’m intrigued.

I was going to ask you for a recomendation for blades and you got there before, brilliant! I’ll look them up when I get home.

Thanks again Doc

Regards

Hi Jase,

Oh yeah, my copper beech is just outside the window here…well, I say just outsde the window, but maybe 25-30’ out, as otherwise it’d be just inside the window. And I’ll agree, a few of the green ones would be nice indeed, been thinking of scoring a few saplings ( f. Grandifolia )from one of the local beech forests to give it some company.

I snagged my ball-bearing outfeed gizmo at the local dump, where there’s all sorts of things. I’d bet you could make one with a chunk of timber, some golf balls, the appropriate sized Forstner bit and mebbe a little fine sawdust plus oil to turn in.

The rolling pins - saw some cheap charlie ones for small money and had a light go on in my tiny little skull, spun a couple and they were concentric enough, so I went with them. Saw off the handles at mebbe 1 1/2" out from the pin, drill appropriate size holes in a ladder-like frame and there you have it. Spacing: around a foot or so, center to center.

If you have access to the table leg hardware, by all means use it, better than the lags I suggested. Also, a couple of machine screws, countersunk, going through to threaded inserts or whatever in a couple of wood bits, so you can clamp the aux. table to the standard table, that’d be a nice touch. And, now that I think of it, might want to make the legs removable, so you can swap in a set that are the same height as the tablesaw table.

The formica does well, in fact some factory made outfeeds ( notably the Deltas ) for tablesaws use it. It’s not as slippery as, say, high density polyethylene, but it does fine. Best to put dadoes in after it’s had the formica applied.

As to the Mazola…well, lets just say that if I was to investigate further now, the blonde would probably remove certain parts of my anatomy. ‘…the better part of valor’, y’know?

Best regards

doc…

Hey Doc,

is there any problem for which you have no solution? The golf balls in saw dust and oil is pure inspired. Useful stuff from nothing is my favourite kind of stuff.

So it’s that kind of Mazola party! Been there, done that, fell over. (Not really)

I imagined, in my slightly surreal imagination that it would be kinda like a Tuppaware party or something, with lots of Mazola devotees or Veggie oil fans celebrating the virtues of said oil, with a folk band wailing about saving the oil and how oil used to be in the olden days. Hey-nonny-nonny, save the oil save the oil! Frankly Doc, I’m disapointed.

It’s just turned 5.00 and I’ve finished work for the day, now I’m off home to my real work!

Later!

Hi Jase,

Golf balls are fairly impervious, take impacts well and can be stolen from those with too much money. And golfers tend to be rudely out of shape, so when ya steal 'em foot pursuit isn’t gonna be a problem.

Heh- when you have a philosophy degree, nothing is impossible, just takes a certain convoluted logic and bending time, space and the fabric of reality itself. With the possible exception to that the problem of finding employment that doesn’t involve ‘Ya want fries with that?’.

With golf balls as bearings, and considering how a Forstner bit makes a lovely but flat bottomed hole, then ya gotta have some sort of slippery stuff underneath it. Preferably not a bed of grease, as that would tend to leave little dots of goo on the workpiece. Not straight oil, as you’d still have the ball contacting the bottom of the hole, high friction and it prolly wouldn’t turn too good. If by some chance you were milling HDPE and collected the dust, that’d be ideal…but I haven’t been cutting up many industrial cutting boards of late and I’d be reluctant to tick off Her by doing something like that. Besides which, I like cutting boards.

So, slippery granules, how to make 'em. Well, hardwood sawdust and a little light oil would fit the bill. If by some strange chance you could get hold of sawdust from Lignum Vitae, that’d be perfect.

Yep, that kind of Mazola party. Been there, done that, slid out the door when nobody was watching. Nothing like tupperware, nor the newer hokum of brazilian berry juice.Though I will say that those parties, like wandering through naturist beaches, just tells me that there are indeed a lot of people in this world who Really Should Wear Clothes.

Hey nonny-nonny indeed. The mind boggles and the stomach revolts.

Meanwhile, had the day off, so now to go do something useful, at last.

Have fun

doc…