banging shutter

General Discussion
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woke up in the dark

banging shutter

the wind is still 20 degrees NNE

uri-on the lawai fern

stumblin’ back to prone

stop at th xputer

check the wind at the airport,yep 20

then arround the world

the surfer mag .com

video cipasaurus iti

slice after slice after slice

begin w/ j jonson rif ana arial ana lean back save

the maldives.rest in peace

the rope barrier with the coctail tables

the extrapolation -epic cure flashes in th grey matter

epicure is a food refrence normally

but if we bend the meaning to fit the moment

this Cure takes on Epic proportions

every day at that crappy beach break

dreaming of the day of memory

refreshes the soul

deprived of an exaulting circumstance

after days of rain waiting to lam inate

the board under the trash bag

protected from the leaky roof

each one of these days on the trailers and clips

in a critical perspective

is just the ones caught on film

the fact is they always miss the best one

…did you get that wave?

which one

the one that I got where I …

nope I was changing film

nope I was talking to Iris about making a baby

nope I was takin a drink.

photo recording is inately short of real experience

Ill never forget…

the check out at home depot I see a guy from Anahola

nice guy quiet dont Know his name

I’m immediately taken back to surfing with him

20 years ago at kanahawele…

we didnt exchange ten words

but we bonded in time and space

he turned I smile he smiles

"I remember that day surfing race track with you "

I said it

he glowed I glowed

inside he may have remembered that day

I dont remember any of the waves

yet the epic Cure for a day of mixed accomplishments

every day we surf is a refrence point in time and space

where’s Chatto, Guppler ,Sideways<Felix, The White Canoe…

it 's waiting for the wave

that goes all the way to the sof sand between the rocks

the chief’s daughter is waiting

to take gifts to the chief

to validate my alpha status

if I dont have the fish

THE SATISFACTION of the ride of my life to the sand

might be infectious

she could pass this along to the chief

perhaps we can marry and become eternal

the left in the shorebreak at waimea looked like a closeout

the camera angle from accross the bay

the crowd looked like drift wood after the rain

on the waimea shoulder

the clip was mostly chrome plated car wrecks

nascar surfing is to become?

Professional? what a life…

surfing ?

I remember Yoou

Kui Lee said that

… ambrose…an hour before sunrise

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Ambrose, go back to bed. You need the sleep. Doug

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What if that dream that I keep having is the reality of the here and now and these waking moments are just the spaces between “real time” or “reality” or “universal truth”??? God, it’s always so clear, like water-spots finally being wiped from the windshield. I guess I’m brave enough to tell it. I’ve posted enough times to get over those “newbie,” clear your throat, jitters. It always starts on a trail on the side of this big mountain that meets the sea. There is a path that is a critical climb down to the edge of where the sea and land meld. One of those membranes where the everlasting eternity blinks and tears as the Earth gazes out into the cosmos. What a show she must see. It looks just like that first turn-out, camping area, not the creek, but the one where you are surrounded by the pine trees and you creep up to the edge and the beach is way… down there, in Big Sur. But it is more of a crescent shape that focuses every little swell and wind event into the craggy rock shore, sand inlets and submerged reefs. The path is lined with those that have made the transition, or are awaiting their next assignment, and the smiles are broad and glowing as I stumble down the gauntlet trying my new legs out for maybe the umpteenth lifetime. But what I remember, and even now as I type this, is the water. The texture, the warmth, the color and taste. It is ecstasy at the primal level. Womb-love. Source. Alpha-Omega.

I’ve only experienced this state-of-being two times in my (actual) life. The first was a surf session in overhead Newport Point. I was in the cosmic spot, the one that when you take off, you know is a tube that will conform to your life-force like it was made just for your ego gratification, but the travelers of time and space never talk about it except maybe to their son as a dying reference to what made life “real” and palatable through the letdowns and missteps of humanities sleepwalking reality. I was enveloped in this light-filled glass cylinder, the likes of which I’ve never witnessed since, and the silence inside was unnerving and what blew my mind is I looked down at my board and it wasn’t there. The wave closed out and I wasn’t tossed and turned about - I was cradled out the back into still, calm water. But I was awake! Those few moments were bliss…

The only other time was when my daughter was born. My wife was into alternate birthing methods so she suggested that we try the “Le Boyer” method. Cool. The father takes the newborn after she is lain on the mother’s stomach and floats her in this clear plexiglas tub of room-temperature water. With life-support system still attached and covered with after-birth I floated my little “newbie” in the tub! I recognized the look of bliss on her freshly revealed face. I was undeniably awake. The walls of the hospital melted away and I stood among the stars cradling my little Heart-Star in the sacred womb-wash of the Earth’s generosity and benevolence.

Thank you ambrose for catalyzing my memories. You are truly a “master.” One more koan and a well timed “clap” - we will ALL awake.

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what else really counts, those peak experiences are what burn in our memory and carry us on…

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Well, you can look at http://www.srh.noaa.gov/data/forecasts/MAZ022.php?warncounty=MAC001&city=Eastham and rejoice that you’re not there.

The guy with the mustache, glasses and tat of a Viking longship on his back who is wandering your waters for a while is my brother. Dunno why he’s there, especially, dunno why he got the tattoo either. Life’s just a stack of mysteries…

doc…

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Aloha Ambrose, Sounds like the rain is getting to you !!!

    Aloha,   Clyde
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choclate brownies cure the rain

the crispness of life in the northern latitudes

is surely what draws the human spirit to quit the tropics.

the clear and dark night sky is an enviable vista

…ambrose…waiting fof the viking canoe

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Ambrose Your Great !! The canoe sank !!! No just kidding, Mold in place and the final materials arrive tues !!

Have a great weekend , Aloha ! Clyde

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the canoe floating away is a greater threat Heave To an’ lash 'er down Mr.Rodgers another squall passed thru kapaa,…ambrose… I lost a boat down river in 1973

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Quote:

choclate brownies cure the rain

Ambrose could you please give the recipe for your herbal…er, I mean chocolate brownies?

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Duncan Hines family style brownies with Darrell Waltrip picture on the front ,add extra walnuts and hazel nuts replace called for water with whole milk,grease pan with butter instead of grease.and no the basil is for pasta and the use of stupifing herbal distractions are the dominion of other than my - self …leave the boat behind.habituated… / surfing and chocolate are enough for this sensitized spirit…ambrose …what is hip,‘‘tower of power’’ said it…