…you probably know what I’m going to ask , but I’ll ask it anyway …
did you ever take any photos of those swirls you mentioned , back in the '60s ?
I’d like to have seen them …
cheers !
ben
…being born in 1961 , I mainly got to see Martyn Worthington’s GREAT “Hot Buttered Surfboards” airbrushes in the 1970s , being that Simon used to get boards from Brookvale . [We lived in Cremorne throughout the mid 1960s- mid-1970s]
Howzit Bill, I always mix another yellow with the saturn to stablize it and the Saturn floural gives it a nice vibrance. I’ve also added some black to the saturn which results in a very nice hue to the yellow. A few years back a friend had a board made that was Saturn yellow with a red rising sun design. The glasser only used flourals from F,H and with in 3months all the color was basically faded and looked like crap. She then had another one shaped and had me paint and glass it. I added the extra paint to the flourals and the board never faded, she was so stoked.Aloha,Kokua
I am sure there are some photos around somewhere of those boards but I don’t have any that I know of. I have a few photos, but none showing those neon acid splashes. Most of my photos are faded and color shifted. I will post one below that took a lot of Photo Shop work to recover. This is one of those boards I mentioned that had the reverse rocker.
We were all pretty much hippies in those days and as such owned minimal possessions like cameras. There were photos taken though and some had some nice cameras. One of my goals as I get closer to finishing up my full website is to try to track some of them down and document some of that early Oregon surf history on my website.
winter '74 surfed Seaside in the middle of a snow storm in december the weekend before finals. Me and a some army guy I didn’t know from FT Lewis and a airforce girl from McCord. First time this hawaiian ever surfed anywhere out side of the northshore. I should’ve been studying for my physics finals but I was so desperate to surf I bummed a ride with a bunch of strangers to go surfing at this “secret spot” they knew… Had to catch a greyhound from seattle to portland to go to Mrs “A’s” to get a full wetsuit the weekend before.
With a 1/2 inch rope tied to my leg and board me and the army guy jumped off a bunch of black rocks into a black/brown foamy mess and struggled against the current to get out… The girl was to scared to try cause it was that ugly… This was my first experience at surfing point waves and I never knew you could surf so long so close to shore… Still remember the ugly logs floating around in the foam that looked like sharks. After two horrendous wipeouts and getting flushed with no hood, I thought I was going to die, puked my guts out and had an icecream headache for rest of the day. I gave up and we went in and on the way to westport I bailed and caught the greyhound in olympia back to seattle wearing my wetsuit under my clothes. Flunked my final…
All I remember was the waves and current was unreal justliek your pic (but no set lulls)
The water was ugly and ice cold (I learned what a “wetsuit” was that day)
No sandy beach only black rocks
snow was beautiful
And I swore to do it never again…
Took up snow skiing that winter…
Amazing the things you do when you’re young and stupid…
What at great story! I got shivers just remembering the cold! Your story took me right back there. One thing about Surfing in the NorthWest is that every go out seems to be a special adventure. The environment is so rugged that it just lends itself to adventure.
Here is a short story. Last spring I went to visit my Daughter Roslyn http://roslynbarnfield.com in Hood River where she was working at DaKine. Among other adventures of windsurfing, mountain biking etc, we went surfing at Short Sands. 3’-4’, crappy day but we had a lot of fun and caught a few waves. There was a heat wave in Portland so the coast was packed. The cars at Short Sands were parked all up and down the highway for hundreds of yards. The beach was filled with people and I never saw so many surfers and boards in the North West in all my life.
Still the crowds were civil and everyone was having fun except one bonehead who felt the need to “dominate”. But that is another story. We surfed in full suits with hoods and didn’t think we stood out in any noticeable way among all the other black wetsuits…though our boards were brighter colors! Ha! see photo. Anyway, a couple days later we were all eating together in Portland at Henry Weinhards Brewery and our busboy says…Hey…didn’t I see you guys out at short sands the other day! Huh!..Millions of people in Portland, zillions of resturants to eat at and dozens of surf spots and gobs of surfers out surfing at different times… and we all wind up in the same place at the same time…Twice!. Surfing is so cool sometimes!
boy dont let the seaside point goons see those photos thats a seceret spot…haha you should be getting death threats on you answering machine by now…o wait none of those guy have a computer never mind…or have ever traveled outside of seaside and shortsands…is that first point? good photo i would like to see more of what it used to look like before the big slide…
I am all for those guys protecting The Point. It is possible to do so responsably as long as those who visit aren’t hell bent to expose the place. There are few treasures left that haven’t been overexposed by some photographer or glory seeking pro looking to derive their incomes from exposing “secret spots”. When the “paparazzi surf spot circus” comes to town it is very difficult to fend it off or reason with it, and all bets are off.
Lets hype the negative reputation of the locals there to the point were no one dares show up with cameras and an entrouge of magazine pros to do an expose. Perception is everything and lets make it very scary!! Even though the reality is that if you just want to surf respectfully with the locals they will accept you.
Sorry TJD all those other photos are under control of the Seaside Mafia. I could show them to you but I would have to kill you afterwords! Ha! First Point…?? Never heard of the place! Ha!
the place is so local …just walking by the parking lot gives you the willies you can feel the tension just in the air and i respect the guys who give people so much crap…even though i am the enemy cuz im blond although im not from california…i always tell people how hardcore meen that place is just to keep people away …you dont want to loose its reputation you want to increase it…i like the fact thats its run by rednecks willing to smash face… if your sly and a little local you can get a couple before the sun comes up…