Thanks! I shall press on. The sand job on the hot coats came out really good and smooth, I just subscribe to the party that believes a sanded hot coat should be sealed even if I do not believe that there are any/many burn throughs. I may have had one very slight burn through, but would not consider it a sub par sand job. To be quite honest, it is 3 boards all being glassed at once… I just didnt want to divulge that I sealed 3 boards when I should not have… Haha.
These are far from competition boards, but want the customers(shaped their own boards and brought them to me for glassing) to have added layer of security, even if they have no idea how it was glassed and sealed.
I want to get these guys in the water for Wednesday’s post snow storm swell event on the east coast…
You would think they would be pumped, but I got crickets when I let them know the boards will be done in time! Go figure
You don’t have to use both maroon and grey. One or the other will “burnish” the Sealer and cause it to flow out and even up. Two oats burnished under an orbital sander is an easy process and a good finish. It’s not gloss resin but is a damned good easy finish. I have been wiping boards down with “Acrylic Sealer” since Fiberglass Hawaii used to repackage it and sell it in there Santa Barbara store as “Secret Sauce. About 1995.
McDing I’ve been using it for a while too. Good tech. Question: when you say burnish and flow are you dying it heats up and actually flows? I’ve been wet sanding to 600 and getting a nice finish.
I have been imagining that by “flow” it means that it will heat up and sort of smoosh out like when you oversand lam laps. You look down and see all those boogers on your paper, but if you keep saning it into your laps you get a sort of white smooth booger on the board. Only in this case the pads come out boogerless and the sealer gets smooth due to heat and friction.
I also have a pretty simple mind… so take that scientific description with a grain of salt
Gonna go hit the boards with the pad in a little bit. Will report back
Update on burnishing. Its not as easy as it sounds. You really need to get on it to make it burnish. OPther than that it went on really smooth and seems to have made a very reliable seal over the entire board. Ther were some very small runs sort of near the rails, or as minor as a run can be without a drip. Pretty much so minor you had to feel it with your fingers rather than see the run, but thats what was really hard to get smooth. Ultimately I took, I think 400 grit and knocked it down ever so slightly before going back to the maroon pad and finishing it off. Overall happy with the outcome and glad I did not have to wetsand and polish 3 boards at once.
Wipe it on with a foam staining pad or a blue sponge, cotton diaper etc. Wipe around the bottom edge of the rail to prevent drips. Don’t brush it on and don’t put it on heavy. One coat is ok, but two is more even and seals better. No brush marks and no heavy build. This is not resin. You’re not trying to replace a hot coat or gloss. You’re sealing a sanded board. Wipe those burn thrus with Styrene before hand. It will burnish easy with one hand on the Orbital Sander if you follow my directions. Been doing this for years. Always comes out nice. Mud, handprints and burn thrus are nixed. Generic “Acrylic Sealer”. For tile and vinyl floors. No it is not Futures Floor Wax. Not even similar. I buy the Behr because it is easily accessed at any Home Depot. There are other brands that can be bought at places like Smart & Final. If it doesn’t look like Skim Milk, you’ve got the wrong stuff.
The finish you get is as good as your application. Burnishing heats and levels. I’ve never done W&D on it, but have hit with Polish. The variables are many, but for a wipe on easy finish; The basic wipe and burnish does the job. Just like the Cafeteria floor or RainSong Carbon Fiber Guitars.
I’ve only used it once. Turned out very nice. Used maroon and gray Scotch Brite pads under a (rectangular) orbital and/or finishing sander, I got a nice semi-gloss finish.
As mcding showed it here for long “secret sauce” is acrylic resin in water product. In europe seabase have one called white flash with same whitener enhancer than some new epoxy resin. At home depot you can find those products for sealing concrete but also for plastic floor renovation and, thicker ones for glassing wood floor, sometimes it’s call “acrylic varnish”. You can sprayed them too.
I’ve been using Behr sealer on Poly boards for years. I do not use it to hide burn throughs. For burn throughs as mentioned a little styrene rubbed in or even a little catylized resin followed by a touch up sand. I wipe on the Behr very thin ising a soft lint free cloth. I don’t want to have any build up. Just a wet looking surface after I apply. I will do up to 4 coats this way. Also because I lay it on real thin I don’t have to do much with it after. Its really just a final sealer so the board stays clean looking and so it has a little more UV protection.
