These guys were at Surf Expo showing off some gloss top coat they claimed things about like what you’re looking for.
It’s the brand the Cobra factory uses.
Dwight do you know the specific product? Is it this: http://sicomin.com/datasheets/product-pdf157.pdf
Thanks McDing. My lams and hotcoats come out pretty clean. I grind the laps nice and flush, though I do find my burnthroughs tend to be in the lap-zone. I’ll try starting with a higher grit on my next board. You are right about the scratches. It is tough to get the 100 scratches out. Normally I do 100, 150,220,320, 2 coats Behr, Maroon Scotch Brite, Grey Scotch Brite. I don’t have 180 but I could start with 150, unless you think it’s worthwhile to seek out some 180.
FTR Behr is a water-based acrylic concrete/masonry/tile sealer. It is designed for outdoor use on surfaces that get a lot of foot traffic, e.g. patios.
It does not come in a spray/rattle can. It must be applied by hand or spray gun.
Like any finish, it scuffs and scratches. A standard resin gloss coat takes a beating in the sand etc.
Smooth and shiny is for sales. It does not last on a surfbaord.
Personally, I see the main advantage of the Behr product as sealing unseen pin holes in epoxy.
To each his or her own.
More than likely “Speed Spray” = Behr Concrete Sealer put in a can and relabeled.
As far as I know, both are an acrylic water based clear, which is why I thought Tom’s comments and photos were pertinent on this thread. They were originally posted on resinhead’s 2-pack automotive spray finish thread, which is another beast altogether. For those so inclined, I bumped that thread cuz it’s another option for gloss over epoxy. Myself I glass with epoxy and am content with a wetsanded finish, no extra steps and coatings.
When I was doing epoxy I was getting a nice glossy finish by wet sanding to 600 then a quick hit with the polisher and some Number 7 polishing compound and a wool bonnet.
My comment was not directed at Huck.
The question remains, whether some water-based acrylic sealers are designed/intended for outdoor use.
1.0 gallon @ Home Depot:
Behr Low Lustre sealer (Interior/Exterior)
$27.98
BEHR PREMIUM® Wet-Look Sealer (Interior/Exterior)
$27.98
I’m hoping if I start sanding my hotcoats with 150-180 this whole issue will be moot for me :).
For your own use it doesn’t matter much. As Huck said; if a sanded finish is what you are after then it isn’t a big deal. But as I said 100 grit is pretty aggressive for a final coat. Scratchy! If I were only doing my own boards that I ride; I would still do two coats of Behr and burnish with a grey or maroon 3M pad and an Orbital. Makes my work look nice. Seals the board against hand prints, mud etc. And one gallon does so many boards it’s not even funny. Most of you are too young to remember when the “Industry” first started doing boards in a sanded finish. They were not sealed and after a winter of use those old Clarks looked like $#|t. Hand prints all over the rails. Mud from setting it down on the ground in some dirt lot or some rural spot. That took about one winter and the Industry came up with something to seal them. Enter “Secret Sauce”. AKA. Floor Sealer.
I sand to at least 220 before using Behr sealer. Sometimes I go to 400. The most recent board I did I went to 400 wet then sealer and the finish is really nice.
Perhaps I was being a bit cheeky when I said starting with 150-180 would make this issue moot. What I meant was I’ve been obsessed with a more viscous sealer because I thought it would be a miracle for small burththroughs and 100 grit scratches. But if I start sanding my hot-coats with 150-180 hopefully these burthroughs/scratches will be no-more and the behr will do just fine. I love the Behr. Simple to apply, drys fast, and effective.