I used up the low -lustre sealer and like the results.Then I saw they make wet gloss / hi-gloss sealer and got curious and picked up a gallon. I did some searches and didn’t see anything. It looks and smells the same. I did a little test spot on sanded epoxy and looks good.
anybody try this stuff ?? like or dislike it ??
cheers
Tom
Haven’t tried it. I’ve always used low lustre. Only drawback I can think of is the possibility of coats not sticking if you do multiple coats. I’ve done as many as 5 thin coats of the low lustre. Usually I do at least two.
Try it and give us a report back…with pics.
What it comes down to is that Satin shows fewer imperfections in the finished board. I’m talking about swirl marks, scratches, air bubbles etc. Whereas; Wet Look or Gloss highlights those types of imperfections. These types of wipe on finishes were devised by the “Industry” quite a few years back to seal sanded boards. The idea was to come up with something that would hide any imperfections and seal the board against mud, dirt, handprints etc. it also helps to seal the burn thrus etc that may actually take on water after a period of time, turning spots an ugly brown. The Satin is. Also a very nice luster and can be burnished to a nice shine with an Orbital Sander and a 3M pad. Satin can be wiped or brushed on. Once it’s burnished, the heated generated by the sander and pad levels the sealer. Wipe marks disappear. Gloss requires more care in the application to avoid wipe marks. Best sprayed on with a cup gun. But once it is burnished the wipe or brush marks will lay down as well. It’s the same principle and process as if you were doing a vinyl tile floor. The nice thing about Satin is that can be applied with a sponge (my method), two coats and if done properly, left as is. Lowel
Right on point mc ding! I see what your saying. It does have a little more shine then low lustre. I kinda like it as is with out buffing. I’ll try to buff out next board.
Here’s some pics but was hard to pick up the shine being camouflage 
…Mc Ding is right BUT this finish is not durable. Do not last too much you should do a spray finish based in automotive clears to get what you want, to protect art being done on the hot coat etc and that last forever.
…Mc Ding is right BUT this finish is not durable. Do not last too much you should do a spray finish based in automotive clears to get what you want, to protect art being done on the hot coat etc and that last forever.
Upside, if the OP likes the “wet look” finish, it is easy to re-apply a new coat(s) if the old finish begins to fade.
Nice and glossy new again for less than US $1.00…
…there s no nice and glossy if after several months of use you have scratches etc.
The only way if you want luster for ever is with a polished and rubbed out gloss coat. If you want a matte or satin finish, you need to spray the sanded hot coat.
You work only one time and the board should be water tight and nice.
It is not possible to add another new Behr acrylic coat later?
Strip wax. Clean top and bottom surfaces. Light sand with 150 or 220 and add one or two coats of Behr sealer? Smooth out with Scotch Brite maroon and light gray?
I would have to disagree with you on this subject again. Twice! I have found it to be quite durable and long lasting. It’s not resin or automotive; but then again it doesn’t yellow and flake off the way the clear coat did on your Honda beater.
Very nice work. Love that “camo” look. Yes that’s a nice, durable lustre.
The thing is that we are not up to your standards and methods. Most of us around here at Sways have reinvented a wheel or two. Yes I know; It’s for floors! And people walk on it all the time. It gets mopped. People move chairs and furniture around on it. Drunks puke on it. But it’s just somehow not durable enough for a surfboard. I’m thinking if Behr relabeled to say; " Behr Floor and Surfboard Sealer" You might think it’s okay to use???
I’ve been using the wet look behr for several years. The boards look nicer than when I used the satin in my opinion.
For sure, my surfboards material supplier sell the same products as “surfboard finisher” for at least x2 price of floor protector. Same product: acrylic varnish, ( resin in water with uv Blocker).
…is like people painting motorcycle tanks etc with a can an say how good is that…in fact is ok, but the results are not equal than to have a proper paint equipment. May be all the car factories and repainters in the world are fooling themselves to not to use a can.
-The flakes in clears do not happen anymore since the 80s and you see that in beaten cars.
Never ever see a clear flake with quality brands like Basf, etc.
Anyway; for surfboards, I use a special one that is elastic so always there never peeled.
That luster in those floors needs to reapply from time to time always; ask to the guys doing the job.
I see Aussie boards from the speed finish era (late 80s) that still have the good coat there however, I see plenty of surfboards with the posca art on top of the hot coat from 15 years ago that cannot hold that art and those boards were done with a can or with a luster.
Boards with gloss and boards with an acrylic speed finish are generally completely different animals. I wouldn’t gloss a HP shortboard any more than I would use acrylic sealer as the finish on a retro log.
I am still waiting (in vain?) for a miracle epoxy sealer that is the equivalent of a lighter gloss coat that can fill burnthroughs and other minor imperfections. I always use 2 coats of Behr and while it seals well and is easy to apply, it doesn’t fill burn-throughs, even small ones. Would love to aggressively sand my epoxy hot-coat with 100 grit and then brush on a sealer coat with a viscosity somewhere between Behr sealer and Poly Gloss. Is this too much to ask? Greg Loehr? Bueler?
Learn to sand without burn thrus. If that is really that big a problem; better to put on another sealer coat of Epoxy and sand by hand with 180 or 220’after the first coat and sanding. 100 is pretty aggressive for a hotcoat.
Thanks McDing. I’ve done about 80 complete Epoxy Glass/Sand jobs and I feel like I am plateauing in terms of results. Don’t get a lot of burnthroughs but I always get a few small ones. Not enough to warrant the extra weight of a 2nd epoxy hot coat. I always start with 100 grit on the deck and bottom (with a power pad soft yellow pad) but don’t touch the rails until 220 (with a super soft ferro). You think I’d get better results starting with 150 grit on the deck and bottom? I’m all ears because I have a lot of respect for your advice.
It basically goes like this; A good lam, a good hotcoat equals good sanding. If you have a good lam; you should be able to put on a nice fairly thin hotcoat. If you can lay down a good hotcoat you should be able to start sanding with a finer grit. I try to get my hotcoats good enough to start with 180 grit. Then if further sanding is needed I go to 220. I know there is a thought around here at Sways to start and finish with 100. But cosmetically that will definitely leave scratches. Too easy to burn thru with 100.
