I am shaping a classic longboard and would like your opinion on which blank may suit my needs. Surf Source is within driving distance so I plan on picking up my blank from there. My two options are the US Blanks 10’8"Y or the US Blanks 11’3"D. The link to the blanks is here: http://www.surfsource.net/store/category/u.s._blanks/
Currently I ride shorter boards (9’6"-10’2") but am unable to knee paddle due to my large stature. Noseriding is fairly difficult in anything but a perfect waist to chest high swell. My reasoning behind going up to such a large board is giving me more time on the nose or getting into the wave sooner. My height is 6’5" and my weight varies between 255-280 lbs. I am in good shape but still have a a lot of mass to paddle. Thanks.
The guy in the vid John just put up (James McLaren) is a classic character. Back before the longboard revival started in earnest, I used to go noseriding on a 10'6'' at the spot he frequents - traded waves and had a lot of fun. Now that place has so many old farts out there it's called ''Rogaine Reef''. I quit surfing longboards so I could ride smaller boards as long as I can, but the calendar's catching up to me and I'll probably be back on them soon lol.
But enough hijack; backdoctor should def go with a BIG board. If you're on the EC check with US Fiberglass down on the outer banks, they might have the bigger blank in higher density and maybe even with a good rocker. They are a container customer and distributor for US Blanks. Also known as the WRV factory.
10’8" off the rack but if you are making a real noserider… you need to order a blank with extra tail rocker. The stock rocker in the tail is greater on the 10’8" so its closer but I would still order one if it was me…
Those are the only options on the US Blanks website. I understand I could go with another company but prefer not to pay shipping or make a blank of my own. The 10’8" does seem like a better starting shape but was told by a local shaper the 11’3" may be a better option because of volume.
Here is a suggestion that is a little out of th box but I know it can work. You should consider shaping a board from an EPS SUP blank. You can shape it on the blank reverse and still get a wide nose and the tail flip you want because it is a square blank. You have plenty of width to work with. volume for your size will be NO issue. I am currently riding a 10'8" classic noserider shaped from one of these blanks and I love it.
Here are the downsides. You gotta glass with epoxy (if that is really a negative). You have to take ALOT of volume out of the blank which makes shaping them more time consuming (I had to plane 2" of volume out of my blank). You have to glass heavier to get that heavy classic noserider feel.
Otherwise it works pretty well. I actually like the feel of the flex in the board when I walk to the nose on steep sections. You can feel the board flatten out and plane better in the steep sections when you are on the nose.
Hi backdoctor - The guy in this video has some good advice in this 4 part Youtube video series. The part about rocker ('peculiar rocker' as he puts it) and rail contours are pretty much dead on but the rest of the series might help as well.
Great video and advice thank you everyone for the input. I live on the east coast in St. Augustine Beach actually just a few hours north of you MikeDaniel.
I decided to go with the 11’3" green shipped in from US Blanks. How much should I alter the tail kick over what the blank offers? After searching on here it seems 50/50 rails are the way to go, does anyone disagree and why?
If you have the option of custom rocker, it wouldn't hurt to lower the nose a bit and boost the tail a bit... or spin it around as has been suggested. If you do the latter, move your template aft on the blank to get plenty of nose width. If you want a finished 10'7", just start with your template at the very back.
The guy in the video talks aboout the flat rocker and flat bottom contour forward with the down rails up front. The 50/50 stuff generally starts farther back on a nose rider and maybe progresses to an upturned flip at the tailblock.
Here are a few shots that might help on the tail rocker and neutral/upturned rail ideas... a Bing Noserider, a Lance Carson and a Jim Phillips that I always thought was particularly nice. You can definitely see the 'reverse' rocker concept on the Bing and Carson models.
I really like the way the Bing’s are shaped in general, the tentative plan was to measure mine and adjust the dimensions to compensate for the increase in size. My tentative numbers are 11’, 19x25x17x4. They have been thrown back and forth with +/- 1/8 inch here or there but I feel they may balance correctly. What do you think?
I shaped a few Bings in my time. I am not a fan of extra tail kick for BIG guys. Do not catch waves as easy AND makes it a lot harder to knee paddle cause the tail is sinking into the water and creating drag. A smaller guy “needs” this to turn em and it helps some in nose riding but for bigger guys it just gets in the way… Ben’s 11’er
From what I understand, you can order some longboard blanks in a “Classic” Density from US Blanks. Very dense, heavy foam, well suited for noseriders if that’s the weight/feel you are looking for. I haven’t shaped that foam myself but I plan to order a 10’2" blank in it sooner or later.
I dig those Yater blanks with the stock rocker. Also like the heavier foam formula. As for noseriding you can either noseride or you can’t. The board will not make you a noserider.
After receiving the blank I am very happy with the density and form. I am working on the template now so hopefully I can get started shaping this weekend.
Ben has the board so he has the “numbers”. 24" wide and “hide” the thickness so it fits in your hand. I have some favorite big board templates I plunk down and go from there. Big boards are “fun” to shape. Got to be able to step back far enough to get a good look at the outline or you might get some unwanted surprises.
