Given two boards of equivalent volume, which would catch waves better: longer and narrower, or shorter and wider? I’m thinking about a template for a board for waves OH to 2x OH. Of course, the narrower one is more likely to hold in better, but I’m just wondering about the ability to get into waves.
hi epicfish, make it long and wide, no joke ask Bill Thrailkill. my step up is 6´7x20 twin, thrailkill inspired and works great.
salu2
uzzi
That does make sense for wave catching ability.
I always try to get away with as little foam as possible- not really for performance, but for duck diving ability. I hate getting stuck inside and rolled around.
The real answer to the original poster's question is: It Depends!
Are you riding mushburgers or are you riding pitching sucking out barrells???? What is your ability level????
Do many folks out there find duck diving all that difficult? Just asking. I don't seem to have a tough time ducking any of my boards. As long as I get the nose down and let the water flow through, it goes okay.
I’m no expert still learning, but in my own tests on boards I’ve shaped 4 so far. Anyhow, I noticed the planshape is for a very shortboard 5’4"- 6’1" as long as you have a wide outline, blunt nose and fairly wide tail it will float and paddle a pretty good size fellow! I’m 6’2" and I just for kicks wanted to see if I could surf a kneeboard- a 5’4" x21" maybe 21/4" thick? While prob too small for me at 200 lbs I think the width lent to boyancy-which allowed me to ride it if the wave had enough power… But to be realistc the shortest I could go (and I have) is about 5’10", but I’ve ridden 5’8" twin fins that ripped! Dunno man!? Just figure out what ya want? I’m going to go a bit longer bout 6’4"-6’5 or even 6’1"? and 20" wide, maybe 21", and thickness around 2.5" and really take down to low hard rails…
So if you go kinda long and kinda widish you can gen be ok? If ur worried add a bit more volume in the mid thickness, nose and tail foils… Or if you go long and narrow you could maybe add a sliver or 2 more thickness to better float you.
Then we see guys buildin real short stubby small wave boards and they make flat decks, capital E rails or boxy type and slightly wider planshape to better float a guy or gal… There’s prob tons of workin combos, but you need to nail down what you want. Good luck.
I see some shapers going with a forward foil, short, wide, low rail board with a rouded pin or pin tail. I think they are going for an easy paddler with some hold in the tail but short for better turning and ability to go all over the wave. they probably have full rocker with single concave and 5 fin option. I’m thinking “Wizard Sleeve” and “Rock-up” kinda boards is what you’re wanting to shape?
Redrum540- I agree on the fuller forward point, but I’ve learned too much nose rocker is a killer if you want a fast paddler… I Might even thin out the hump on the center apex as I had built a board that rode ok. Just paddled like sh*t cos I was goin for aesthetics with a heavy nose flip… Prob won’t be doing that unless I can figure out how to combine the float ratio into the mix?
So now I’m leaning towards less nose rocker than excessive(maybe a med nose flip), or enough flip for paddle power and less nose dives… But I just heard too much tail rocker can also slow you down. So prob he can go less rocker for speed to catch more waves, find a width that works for him, and figure out a foil that float him…
I myself am going a bit longer due to aging… I used to ride a 5’10" twin and a 6’3 tri… Now I want a 6’4+ and prob 21" wide or 20"? And prob 2.5" thick with the good old down hard rails? Maybe add a tad of volume to rails for more floatability? But a slight “corky"board I find paddles great! And can ride pretty solid juice as well. I took my old 6’4” fish twin fin I had on some hollow reef breaks from ca to maui and it kicked butt! Sometimes a good simple board goes a long way.
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Given two boards of equivalent volume, which would catch waves better: longer and narrower, or shorter and wider? I'm thinking about a template for a board for waves OH to 2x OH. Of course, the narrower one is more likely to hold in better, but I'm just wondering about the ability to get into waves.
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Have the wide point and volume a tad forward instead of behind centre. That way you support the weight of the torso. So, make it a bit longer, and wider too, planing power.
i had some cheaper epoxy left and wanted something different for better days, here some fotos of my double stringer eps twin 6´7 x 20 x 2 3/4(?), wide point at center flat bottom 5" nose rocker (more than recommended by bill), tail 2" (the max. recommended), fins 8 1/2 from tail adjustable. i´m not sure what the remaining numbers are, but if anybody is interested …the board was laying around for lack of conditions for about 1year but we had a few days lately
salu2
uzzi
[quote="$1"]
...twin 6´7 x 20 x 2 3/4(?), wide point at center flat bottom 5" nose rocker (more than recommended by bill), tail 2" (the max. recommended), fins 8 1/2 from tail adjustable. i´m not sure what the remaining numbers are, but if anybody is interested ... [/quote]
Yes, I am interested. I don't think I've ever seen a board like that set up as a twin. How did you figure fin placement, toe-in, and cant? Are the fins double foiled, flat on the inside foiled on the outside, or vise-versa? Its for bigger waves you say - how dies it ride?
hi huckleberry, fins are 8 1/2 from tail, 1 1/4 from rail, tow 1/8 but the cant angle is build in the fin (Akila Aipa Future Fins) so i´m not sure. works well and i didn´t
feel any need to adjuste. may forward al little on not to good better days ;o)
saludos
uzzi
width
+carrying width from the WP all the way back to the tail block
- reducing rockers as much as you can
credit: Lindsey Lord
EDIT: oh. “better-wave” catcher. width. not so much carried through tail block. WP forward with rocker curve stretched out aft of WP.
Speaking as someone who rides boards all the way to 24" wide, there is a limit to benefits from width. Start getting beyond 22" wide and 17-18" in the nose (in a 6’0") and it’s like pushing a disk through the water.
Having said that I personally believe that paddling is in the entry rocker. Put the 7’0" entry rocker on a 6’0" and make the nose kick more progressive on the 6’0" and you’ll end up with a good paddler.
Get a bit of volume under the chest so that trim is correct when prone. You can push volume forward without pushing WP forward. It’s just a bit tricky blending the rails.
But don’t trust me. I’m just a hack with a head full of theories.