Beveled deck? thinning the rail while keeping volume

General Discussion
1

I have a question related to rail shape. It’s a thought that i had randomly thinking about rails.I’d like some input from experienced people on the topic just for the sake of learning.

((I started a thread a while ago for my first shape and I will finally get to shave some foam off of a blank in september. I, however, am probably not implementing anything like this it for my first board. I just want to discuss it.))

 

Thought: For a young (in experience not necessarily in age) surfer I seem to understand that Volume is your friend. So if the surfer needs volume in a board around 7’5 foot the idea is to have fuller rails with the deck thickness carried on close to the rail.

say the “Slug” “R” in the chart under (found on this very website)

Now it is also my understanding that thick rails will be harder to turn, because hard to “burry”. I know that in surfboard design (like in most) everything is a matter of balance and compromise.

 

not let’s say that this person would like his board to follow him quite de long time. and be the mushy wave week summer funboard later on in his life. I would say that a good manoeuvrability would be a plus and that, rail wise, slightly thinner rails could help with that? (don’t hesitate to criticize my train of thought. I realize that I don’t know anything)

(at this point I would also like to mention that I realize that other factors are playing in manoeuvrability, the bottom contour, the rocker, sharp edge in the back, central fin placement…)

 

Now if I am looking to have reasonnably thinner rail but keep some volume throughout the deck this is where my little brain went to the “beveled deck” (I hope rthis term is right) concept and rails like the “stussy” “P” in the same chart.

I am thinking that it would allow the board to keep some volume and being somewhat manoeuvrable. find a balance between the two

To conclude I know that this is nothing new and I also believe that it is not very common (I’ve seen some fish with that not many mid-length). Me think that there is a reason for that and maybe I am completely mistaken in my thinking or probably missing an glaring flaw in my reasonning. would the board be way too instable? turn weird? catch a rail every wave?..

 

I’d welcome some input :slight_smile:

 

 

2

I did a Standup awhile back that had a raised deck.  Turned out much better than I though it would.  I’ll look around on my phone.  I may have some pics.

3

I usually use a flat deck then bevel to the rail size and profile I want.   IMO flatter decks are more comfortable to paddle and enable me to go thinner overall and still hit my volumes when compared to domed decks.  They’re easier to shape, glass and finish, too.   I generally only use domed decks and the more higly refined foils on HPSB shapes, which I do very few of those.     

4

GDaddy’s info on flatter decks is good and sensible.  There was a period there in the very early 70’s where a lot of shapers “domed” their decks.  Especially in the Hawaiian Islands.  Was a dumb idea and design.  Personally it is my believe that shapers in the 70’s who churned out domed decks weren’t thinking and if they were they had no skills.

5

i’d be interested in seeing that.

6

Oh, very cool to hear so the idea isn’t completeky out of left field!

how do you manage your rail band if I may ask? I may try on my first board if you say that it is easier all around!

7

Thanks for the feedback I might end up trying it if it is really easier.

 

My fear came from the fact that it is not very common.

8

I’m a backyarder who doesn’t work in the trades.  I have zero natural skill or ability and I only do a handful of boards every year, so I have adapted my process to my limitations.    

As a result of discussions here on Sways I have become a convert to shaping the rails from the bottom to the top instead of from the top to bottom.  That means leaving the bevel  and blending into the deckline for last.    I skin and fair out the deck and bottom including most of the foil.  Then I template the blank and square those cuts up.  Then I do the majority of my bottom contours and THEN I start doing bands on the rail from the bottom to the top.     

The reason I like doing my rails before my deck is because it enables me to get the bottom and rail profiles I want, which after all is the business end of the board.   Priorities.    

I did it the other way for years, as is commonly shown in the vids, and that works, too.  Other people do it that way and it obviously works well for them, too.    But I feel like I have more control on what I’m getting when I do it this way.    Your mileage may vary.  

9

Hello Axluba; I let another option. Slightly concave deck with step rails.

 

900×602 102 KB

10

That looks sweet! Can you elaborate on the reason why you did it? (The concave/step choice) and how did you pick your rail “width”.

 

this seems above my pay grade in term of realization but I’m very interested in the thought process behind it! 

11

Couldn’t find picks.  But the rail and deck came out pretty close to the Stussy rail and deck.

12

Check for the Haydenshape Cannon (Single Fin), a board which Craig Anderson rode in Teahupoom it has concaves on deck from mid to tail, similarily to the above step deck, but finally differently.

 

1 Like
13

It makes a lot of sense but I don’t think I can apply that method (bottom first) before having some decent experience that would help me visualize where I want to go as I progress in the rail shape.

 

I’m actually thinking about implementing that beveled deck on that first board because it seems like it doesn’t make the whole process of shaping and laminating.

14

That’s a beautiful board, which makes me more comfortable with the thought of a flat deck plus bevels.

I try to keep my expectation low regarding my result. looking at Haydenshape makes me drool!

15

My next board will be a mid-length 7’2 with lots of similarities to the Cannon. I will call it the single shot; I’ve already done the design

 

1600×1200 60.8 KB

16

Surfdude—  I like it.  Full template and volume.  Sweet diamond tail.  Lowel

17

sweet, my objective for my first one is close but less refined. see under.

 

will you make a post about yours? always interested to learn!

2796×1216 247 KB

18

@McDing, Thank you!

@axluba Usually I do post some information or pics of my boards. But it will take some time, it will be my fall project. I’m still thinking about the build details, but it definitely will be a hollow wooden board (as mostly all of my boards); the open question are about the look:  just balsa (but very light, glassed inside and outside); cork deck, or just deck plates, or glassed inside, but instead of glass outside a nice looking veneer on deck an bottom, sealed and varnished, what kind of wood veneers, wooden rails, cork rails, alternating wood/cork rails, like my last builds… etc. etc.

First Pic 5’6 Riversurfboard; 9’4 Longboard with partial cork deck; 9’2 Longboard, Progressive light, under 6kg; 8’0 MIdlength fully cork covered deck…

 




19

This is a detail of the 9’2




20

All very nice my friend.  Wood is a different world compared to foam.  And;  I will be first to admit, beyond my ability.   I am admittedly a foam with wood accents guy.  I have been around woodworking enough to know that if I had the desire, tools and lots of practice;  I could do it.  But desire is in short supply as I get older.  Beautiful, functional Surfboards.  I’m not quoting exactly;  But I remember an art critic calling a Phil Edwards board that was on display back East; 'A perfect example of Form and Function.   Your boards certainly are that.   Lowel