I actually try to reproduce the Stewart Hydro hull concave and beveled rails on a 7’6" egg (kind of Cooperfish Comet)
Does someone could give me a hint about when and how do I have to “cut” the bottom part of the rail to make it as similar as possible as the ones of my “hydro perfect machine” ?
You could use a Fred tool with a tighter angle. I know your saying whats a fred tool?! Look in the archives, there’s tons of pics and discriptions of the Fred.
Why don’t you try replacing the surform blades of your fred tool with a piece of wood with a 40 or 50 grit sandpaper glued to it… cuts cleaner and makes bevels easier…
The secret to beveled rails is to cut the bevel THE VERY LAST THING YOU DO after fine sanding the bottom. You leave some extra meat at the bottom of the rail, then do the beveling. Those fred tool that you guys talk about would not be necessary and you will be using 80 grit to start, then down to the fine stuff. It doesn’t take much.
If you cut the bevels early, they get too blunt. The need a good edge at the top and bottom of the bevel. During the glassing process they will become just right.
By the way, chine railed 5 fin fish type boards are INSANE!!
Hey ya’ll - I am so down with this too. I made my second tri-plane/edge board. One little tip, round the edges on the foam so the glass lays over nice and easy - then after you hot coat and sand, you build up the edge - give it a nice 1/4 inch strake (see Dale Solomonson’s pic in the archives) - with glass beads, sand nice and smooth, then a light gloss, and then… it will fly.
what is a beveled rail? is it a down rail, or is it that little raise approximately an inch from the bottom of the rail under the board that is raised out a little bit.