As some of you already know I’m really into the longer boards lately… Here’s a quick, true story that I honestly think is one way to a long surfing life due to the big board design…
This past summer I started surfing again everyday I could… One day I saw legendary big wave rider Kimo Hollinger out at Laniakea on a 3-4’ day. I’ve always respected Kimo for his bravery in large surf. He was always someone I looked up to growing up here on the North Shore. He was riding what appeared to be an 11’ board… He sat outside everyone and waited for the bigger sets… The thing that struck me as very cool was the fact that Kimo is in his 60’s. Maybe even late 60’s. He got so many great waves I couldn’t help but think to myself that I hope I can surf like him when I’m in my 60’s. This same scenario went on all the way into the winter at Laniakea…
Last Friday morning Haleiwa was firing at Hawaiian size 8-10’ which is roughly 15 to 20’ faces. It was flawless on some and some waves were down right mean. As I’m taking my time checking it out I see someone take off on a set wave from as far out as possible. I’m talking way out on the corner. It was Kimo! 60 something years old and just flying across a Haleiwa wall all the way to the toilet bowl!!! I can’t begin to tell you how unreal that is!!!
I paddled out on my 12’ Munoz with the canoe paddle and joined him on the outside corner. We were outside for awhile as the current was ripping… More I thought how hairy this was as you had to constanly paddle to stay in position. He and I along with Hawaiian were the farthest guys out. Another big set came through and there went Kimo again. Just charging a mean looking big one! I was blown away. It was no small day…
I paddled over to get a few big perfect ones at Puena Pt then came back to Haleiwa in about an hour. By then Kimo had gone in. Awhile later I was in position for a big corner set where I had taken over Kimo’s spot. A big west set wave came right to me. I stroked hard with my canoe paddle and stood up on a beautiful big wall. I made the drop which Hawaiian later told me he thought I was gonna eat it! I went sideways down the drop and quickly slammed the paddle into the face to stay in control… It was just heaving but open as I leaned hard on my paddle through the huge sections… I remember just flying across that wave thinking stay open, stay open!! I made it in without eating it and loaded my board into my truck… It was by far the best wave I have ever caught at Haleiwa on a longboard or shortboard.
After rinsing off I walked over to the blue tent which Hawaiian sets up everyday. A group of surfers were underneath and there was Kimo looking at me and clapping his hands. At first I didn’t think anything of it but as I got closer he was looking me straight in the eye and I could see he was acknowledging the set wave I had just rode in… He reached out, shook my hand then told me what a awesome ride that was especially with a canoe paddle and he was stoked for me! I told him about all the big ones I saw him on and he was brimming with stoke on our good fortunes to be blessed with such good big waves… After chatting awhile he thanked everyone there for a great day of surfing…
I’ll remember this day the rest of my life. The day I saw Kimo Hollinger connecting huge sections at big Haleiwa as what society would call an elderly man, a senior citizen. There was nothing senior about it folks! Especially when you consider how many young guys didn’t even paddle out but opted to watch. I’ll also remember it as the day I expanded my own wave horizons at Haleiwa. The day I caught my first real challenging wave with a 12 foot board and canoe paddle. The day Kimo Hollinger made me feel I had accomplished something special… I’m still feeling the stoke as I gear up for the next chapter of big board canoe paddle surfing. I hope to see Kimo again and again in the future…
I have no doubt that the big board design allows you to paddle fast and its what keeps guys like Kimo surfing to this day. The future with all the push towards the new materials are allowing boards to be lighter so we can actually turn and really ride these extra large vehicles. Maybe into our 70’s? Maybe, maybe…
Oh for sure Kimo’s not the only one… Peter Cole is another… He’s also on a huge board…
I know there are others out there that are taking off on huge waves with canoe paddles… Brian Keaulana, Bonga Perkins, Laird among others are all charging with the Stand Up boards… Its cool!
thanks for sharing the stoke-- for us over the big 60 there is still something left!!.. Hope ya get a lot more-- up in size nice for the paddle but i don’t know if i could carry it far.
Mahalo for that story. It touched my heart. I too enjoy watching the old school guys still ripping. Peter Cole out at Sunset has always impressed me. I also enjoy watching the old time beach boys/girls at Waikiki like the late Cowboy, his wife Jennie, Cuban and the rest of the gang surfing at Canoes so early in the morning. I remember Mr. Ah Choy and his yellow construction hard-hat paddle surfing at Canoes and Pops back in the 70’s. I guess the turn on for me is their passion and love for surfing and the ocean. These people love life and still get stoked by the ocean even in their later years.
CarveNalu, your stories really want me want to try paddle surfing. I better fax in my order to Fiberglass Hawaii to get a hold of the last remaining 12-3 or 12-8 Clark blanks (dream on)! If we only can get Pacific Allied to blow up some 3# EPS.
Anyone who’s not read Kimo’s occasional contributions to The Surfer’s Journal should find those back issues & give 'em a read. Always enjoyable. Seems like a tremendously real guy. Best aloha to all…
I’ll remember this day the rest of my life. The day I saw Kimo Hollinger connecting huge sections at big Haleiwa as what society would call an elderly man, a senior citizen. There was nothing senior about it folks! Especially when you consider how many young guys didn’t even paddle out but opted to watch. I’ll also remember it as the day I expanded my own wave horizons at Haleiwa. The day I caught my first real challenging wave with a 12 foot board and canoe paddle. The day Kimo Hollinger made me feel I had accomplished something special… I’m still feeling the stoke as I gear up for the next chapter of big board canoe paddle surfing. I hope to see Kimo again and again in the future…
The latest issue of the Surfers Journal has some cool stuff in it including Kimo Hollinger short storys… Also very cool design stuff… Worth taking a look at…
What a great experience! I’ve always really enjoyed Kimo’s stories in the SJ, especially his one about going to see John Coltrane in the 60s in California. One of the great things about surfing is that we get to play right alongside the heroes!
Over this winter season I’ve been fortunate to be able to talk story with Kimo on occasion… He was telling me about the biggest day he surfed at Laniakea where the entire horizon was whitewater and they were catching the re-forms which were still giant. He said the current under the water was running out but the waves were pushing in so they would get held under an eternity… I told him I can’t even imagine that!!! Believe me, that is freaking huge and GNARLY! A couple days later he paddled up to me and said, “Remember that story about Laniakea I told you… We used to do that kind of stuff all the time so it was like nothing… That’s why we could do it…” I still can’t imagine it… That is HARDCORE!!!
May 8th 2006 Haleiwa lefts Kimo Hollinger having fun…
