Hola a todos!,
I started surfing with this old broken-in-2-pieces longboard that I bought from a local sufer here in La Coruna, Spain. After fixing and surfing it for a yaear and a half, I got tired about taking it to my flat in a 5th floor after each session, so I decided it could sleep in the car, which I park on the street. Good idea till spring came. The wind stops, the sun shines harder, you know… Spain is hot, the board lives in the car… so the rest is history.
I got a 1metre long delamination, removed the floppy glass and sanded the ill foam. Now I have a 1cm deep valley which I’ don’t want to fill with resin+filler (the board has already 2 broken-in-half fixings, so it weights a lot).
I tried to fill it with PU foam in spray can, but new PU didn’t bond to old PU foam of the board.
A local ding-repair gave me a piece of a broken board for removing its glass, cut 1cm thick slices of foam and glue them to the old foam using resin, then sand flush to the deck and glass over it. Quite hard.
Any other advice?? Sandwich core materials like Core-Mat, PVC and so on… are not available here in small quantities, so forget them.
If you want it to be flush you could mix up a thick batch of glass bead/resin and fill. Or, you could go for the concave deck.
new longboard blank: $90
10 yards 6-oz cloth: $30
enough resin to glass: $20
fin box: $4.50
congratulations…you’ve got yourself a brand new longboard for under $150.
Yo creo que si preguntas como reparar la tabla es porque quieres seguir usandola, y no simplemente tirarla a la basura y hacer una nueva, como dice soulstice. Tal vez hay escases de material donde vives, o solamente quieres conservar la tabla porque le guardas cariño. En ese caso, reparala con la rebanada de foam, es la manera mas facil de conservar el peso original. No es tan dificil como crees y vale la pena. Suerte y cuentanos como te va con la reparacion. Jack
i’d suggest this.
using a small planer, take down the stringer until it is at the level of the foam.
using a soft sponge and maybe 100 grit sandpaper or 120 drywall screen, lightly sand away all the “bad” loose foam until you get down to nice solid “regular” foam.
take the stringer down to foam again.
sand the glassed areas with 80 or 100 grit, until you’ve gotten about 6" back from the delam. that’s 6’ from the delam sanded towards the tail and nose and sand the rails also, down to the bottom rail line.
using 4 oz cloth and laminating resin, laminate the delam area including the rails and the 6" sanded areas. then, using another piece of 4 oz cloth, laminate a patch over the delam area only.
when dry, tape off and apply a layer of sanding resin over the whole area. then sand it.
the result may be slightly indented, but it will be solid. you can then use an acrylic sealer or gloss resin for the final coat.
the other alternative is to scrape out the foam and fill with lightweight spackle and then glass and sand, etc…
Please Soulstice, come to Spain with $150 and make you a longboard.
As Jack said i suppose you want to fix the board and keep it with you.
Neira, i would try it the way Jstephen said, with a long piece of foam if you want to keep the original shape.
Maybe Platty has a good answer i saw some amazing restorations made by him.
I have used the PU foam in a can to do a similar repair to a restoration I was doing.
With the PU spray that I have used, you need to spray the area with water to make the foam react. I know it seems to go against all logic but that is what the manufactures recommend. The rougher the surface the better bond. You will need to fill the foam after sanding. Q-cell, spackle etc.
The method your local ding repair guy suggested makes sence also. I would cut the strips higher than needed so you can sand flush.
Could be time to invest you cash in a new board. This one sounds pretty tired and heavy. platty.