I got some great suggestions from everyone in the last thread I started, which led me to my latest board. I’ve been surfing it for a few months and I’m already thinking about my next board order & possible changes. I was hoping some of you more mature, bigger guys would share what you are surfing & what is working for you at the moment. Anyway, I’m 6’2, 205-210 lbs, 35 yrs old and currently riding a 6’8-20.25-2.65 swallow tail quad. Thanks!
7’6" x 20 1/4 x 2 3/4 tri fin. 2# EPS, parabolic stringers, Epoxy, 3 layers of 4 oz impact glass top, 2 layers 4 oz impact glass on bottom.
My other board is the same thing except it’s 8’5" x 20 3/4 x 2 3/4.
I’m the same size as you, but I got an additional 11 years on you…and I catch more waves than you.
-Jay
JBJ,
Information about where you are would be helpful in advising you. Hawaii? Gulf coast? Calif.? Each area would get a different recommendation. Please fill in your profile.
The gauntlet has been thrown…
As for my location, I’m Currently in San Diego. I usually surf beach break when the conditions are right for it & Often surf a couple of reef breaks when the swell picks up (to sum it up, mostly weak southern California surf) I understand that without actually looking at the board I’m riding It’s hard to make suggestions. I was mostly curious about what other guys my size are riding but a couple of general changes I’m contemplating is
1-changing to a thruster fin set up?
2-going a touch narrower & a little thicker?
My reasoning is this-I have a 6’4-20.65-2.75 EPS quad modern fish being shaped for the small stuff, so my other board will be used when the surf is decent chest high to a couple feet overhead.(not ready for anything bigger than that) I am loving my 6’8 quad! I don’t think I want to change too much. I’m catching MANY more waves than I ever have before and I’m getting better at generating speed, cutbacks, hitting the lip ect. The thing is I’m still having a challenge getting the board completely vertical when hitting the lip. Now that I’m getting the pumping thing down I’m wondering if these adjustments might help me change my mostly down the line style of surfing.Any way, I’m having a blast! In the last thread I started I got a lot of great advice and some good dimension numbers to bring in to my shaper. I know my progression is limited by my age (35) But I really feel like my surfing is just taking off! Hope this stuff Isn’t boring the crap out of you guys!
JBJ, if you want to use some of my boards sometime drop me a pm. If your surfing the SD reefs then we have probably run into each other surfing around SD.
One way to go vertical is to let your bottom turn out further, any board should be able to do it. The problem is getting the board to come around and stick the landing. What you do is after you have generated speed from the pumps (if your boards not generating speed at every turn, you either have a dog shape, or you board is too small…remember equalized volume for the big guy) you let the bottom turn out into the flats a bit more. This letting the board out allows the angle of attack to flow right up into the pocket of the wave. When done properly the flow is extremely smooth and not rushed.
Smaller boards are obviously easier to slash around at the top of the lip, but tell me you’ve never seen a Hawaiian completely obliterating a wave on a 9’0" Hp longboard. It’s all about the angle of attack.
Thanks resinhead! Great stuff. I’ll P.M when I’m ready to try one of your boards
From someone who is 6’3 x 195 (and has 23 years on you…), think about something like a 7’6 x 21 x 3 with a nice foil. Tail and nose dim’s per shaper, depending on how racy you want it.
If you want it punchier off the bottom and top, try a soft diamond tail, which also shortens the rail line a bit. If you want it to ride with a nice smooth, flow to it, can’t go wrong with a rounded pin, and a thumbtail can give you the best of both. Hard to go wrong with a thruster for a down the line surf style. (I’m one myself, and find quads want to be fed off the rear leg). Moving the fin set up a 1/4" works well for us front leggies.
With a mellow rocker, that board in SD waves should put a smile on from the overhead to well overhead range…and will probably become your go to board throughout most of the winter…
.
I’m a 6’7", 260 lb 38 yr old. Decent surfer, a bit out of shape, though. I surf primarily on the east coast: NJ, NY, RI, MA. Beaches and reefs, with the occasional bit of travel to the Bahamas or Mex. My go to board for the last few years has been a Bonzer 5 egg. It’s 7’6"x21x3. I’m considerably bigger than you, so you could definitely lessen the overall volume. But I love the board, it works well in nearly all the varied conditions I get around here, from hollow beach breaks, lined up NE reef breaks to mushy, summertime crapola.
whats up JBJ
I’m just about your size, 6’1 & 205(on a good day), just a little older (50)
my regular short board is 6’5 x 20.25 x 2 3/4 swallow quad EPS w/ pinched rails and a flatter rocker
little fuller outline 12 1/2’ nose and 14 1/2 tail, my next one up is 6’8 x 20 x 2 3/4 thumb tail
nose 12 , tail 14 with a progressive rocker with a curvey outline. and of course the standard fish
which is a 6’2 x 22 x2 3/4 twinnie, EPS also.
so I think that you are in the ball park.
with me the switch to EPS felt like I got back 7-10 years
in my surfing. just getting in earlier and being able to stand up quicker made a huge difference.
dont know if your boards are EPS but I say try it
stuart
I personally think that floation is a matter personal preferance.
With that being said your really not sure where your daily driver would be at (due to your board exsperinace is at).
Honestly there is noting wrong with going with the same board just 2" shorter to see where you would be at and if it works for you.
Just my $.02