i was interested in trying to shape a few 9’0s with about a 3 inch stinger. Ive seen them here and there and they look great. first off where can i get a hold of a blank and also how am i going to trim down a stringer that big. im already having a little trouble with the stringers around the nose and tail so i think this will be really hard, but seems fun. anyway let me know
buy some good hand planes and learn how to use them and most importantly sharpen them… the silly little razor blade planes they sell for shaping won’t cut it…
Clark will build blanks with any size stringer… you just have to pay… download their catalog and find a retailer, foamez etc…
good luck…
Clark or Walker can create anything you want, or can imagine.
I’ve done a 2" Balsa stringer. Balsa, beibg balsa isn’t to hard to deal with. Not sure if you would want a 3" stringer made of anything other than balsa…heavy as hell and you’ll lose board flex.
A nice alternative is a foam Tband. Use .25" Cedar for the outsides and high density foam for the middle. This will keep the wigth down and still look very cool if you get colored foam i the middle, or paint it yourself… balsa will also work well for a Tband.
Drew
Quote:
A nice alternative is a foam Tband. Use .25" Cedar for the outsides and high density foam for the middle. This will keep the wigth down and still look very cool if you get colored foam i the middle, or paint it yourself… balsa will also work well for a Tband.
Yeah those foam sandwich stringers look really cool, and will help keep your board under a billion pounds.
yeah i have the clark catalogue so i guess i will just take the big shipping cost but oh well. and yeah i shaped a 9’6 walker foam with the samwiched dyed foam core and it came out really great.
thanks,
al
Old school 2" and up stringers were not just decorative, but put in to enhace flotation (i.e. Weber Legend). They also are prone to glassing problems like bubbles and delams which sometimes occur weeks after the board is done. Make very sure the wood is dry and use a thin cheater lam coat on it before glassing. Let the cheater coat fully cure and check carefully for any signs of trouble before continuing.
a big piece of wood puts wood selection up to the highest priority
reversals of grain and other inconsistancies make this a difficult problem
making many laminations i.e. t-banding is a viable alternative to soilid wood
6-1/2" alternating cedar and bass
1/4 1/4 1/4 down the center w/ a 5/8 1/2 1/2 on either side with the 5/8 outside makes 3"
the old gordies notorious for the wood were sometimes inlayed? or was that just sharks and tikis and duke kahanamokus
…ambrose… three inch clear wood is not cheap
you might consider some sophisticated boxing stringer construction… and or gluing up the stringer yourself to become intimate with the grain direction
before you start ripping up grain irrepairably