Frequently I am asked, by younger surfers, ‘‘what was that time period like?’’ In 1967, my daily driver was a 10 7’‘, 38.5 pound, full on gun. By 1968 I was riding a 10’ 3’‘, 34 pound, pintail gun, see avatar photo. By Oct. 1969, my daily driver was a 7’ 10’’ x 21’’ wide, 14.5 pound board, with a 7 inch wide sq tail. As you can see, I made a rapid shift both in board size and weight. Largest waves on the 10’ 7’‘, was 25 foot Waimea, largest waves on the 10’ 3’‘, was 20 foot Makaha. The largest waves ridden on the 7’ 10’‘, was 15 foot Sunset. That 7’ 10’’ was magical, at Sunset. By 1971 I was riding a 7’ 10’’ 12.5 pound version of that board at Sunset. My smallest board ever, was 6’ 3’‘, but the 7’ 10’’ board was my favorite, because of the range of waves I could ride, and it still had good paddling capabilities, for catching larger Hawaiian waves. Speed was never an issue, with that board.
was the 7’ 10" wide point forward of centre Bill ?
Yes, @ 40% of board length, from the nose.
Swell of 69 at rincon
7’8" × 17 1/2"
Cosmic One written in the foam 