Ive got a friend who want one of my boards but he wants it black.
I plan on using Krylon H2O black out of a spray can unless someone has a better idea as to spray can mfg/type paint. ???
I hope the glasser wont react to this.
Also how do you mark the fin placements on a board thats painted black, white-out?
and how do I write dimensions and name?
A paper template that the glasser can lay over. Either that or set Fusion boxes yourself.
same as above
mark the dims with a white signature (foam ez or art store) pen after hot coat and before gloss
i use 1/8" tape to mark fin placement after the hot coat on a dark board, works real well with the Futures Jig
Tom
You guys got me thinking. I dont want to make a template but may have to.
I’m dropping the board off at the glassers. So there will be no interaction till the day I pick it up.
The white signature pen is good. Perhaps some typist correction tape. Or even white out.
I mark the fin placement make indentations at that point ~ a well point.
Paint the board black , then fill or mark the indents with white out.
It doesnt need to be virtually perfect.
Perhaps I need some ‘gloss black’ paint for this instead of a ‘flat/normal black’
I was thinking, uh oh!
dont paint where the fin box marks will be
for the dims white marker on logo paper and have them glass it on under the lam
hmmm, make a small circular tape cutout(a dimple) for where the fin marks go.
Or even use some 1/8" to ‘connect the dots’.
Paint board, then peel off tape.
For the rest logo paper with white marker. Fantastic!
Thanks Ken and all!
why dont you just ask the glasser to add black pigment to the resin? :S
$$ , not mine, my friends.
A rattle can is $6
But even if black pigment glass job is a cheap extra, still leaves the problem of marking fins and writing dimensions on board.
glad to be of service
Howzit otis, After the board is painted just take a 1/16th drill and use it to like a pencil but turn it to remove the paint with it and it should look like a white dot on the black paint, That's what I do with really dark colored paint. Aloha,Kokua
great idea, will be used
thanks much
I’ve done a few Krylon H2O paint jobs that turned out decent, but always small - simple sprays.
Might be a bit less of an issue with black, but I think you’re going to have a much bigger problem trying to get full/even coverage with full board rattlecan spray job. You’ll have to continuosly clean the nozzle to reduce drips & splatter. With black, what looks like even coverage up close, can be in out black-charcoal when you step back look from a few yards away. Just a thought, could be way wrong.
Thanks Bud, my friend has been forewarned that this is a ‘rattle can’ spray.
It will be splotchy and uneven
.I just hope its not any worse than that!
Unless it’s important that you see the stringer in the finished board, you’ll be a lot happier with the end result by glassing it as a black resin opaque. If the glasser knows what he’s doing, he doesn’t have to do any cut laps.
Don’t think you’re going to get uniform coverage with just one can of black spray paint. After you’ve burned through a bunch of cans, and it still looks like it needs more paint, you’re going to wish you done it with resin color.
BTW, unless the board going to be a wall hanger, black is not really the best full color for a surfboard. It’s a major heat magnet out in the sun, plus every minor shatter ding and deck dent will really show.
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BTW, unless the board going to be a wall hanger, black is not really the best full color for a surfboard. It's a major heat magnet out in the sun, plus every minor shatter ding and deck dent will really show.
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Wax melter!
For the record, my friend is in his 50 , surfing reguarly since his teens. Same for me.
All his boards are black going back some years, its just his thing.
Thanks for the info.
My friend wants a cheapie off of me, and since I shape and the result is that some of my blanks turn into seconds before I’m done, he wants one of my shapes, on the ‘cheap’, which represents
a way for me to recoup some blank lossses $$ and not have much shaping or work to get the shape corrected/adjusted and get full renumeration for the blank and then send it off to the glassers for him.
So far this is how we are progressing with the cost of two rattle cans added to the bill.
I wish he wasnt such a stickler for black and wanting it cheap…its really a pain and is causing this thread to turn into a personal diary with all the admonishments directed at me!
Tell your friend to quit being such a tight ass. I want black, I want cheap, I want mother of pearl inlay, I want gold leaf on the fins. I want it to do airs, I want it to ride Mavericks, Blah Blah Blah…
Tell your friend to even it up. Paint your door, clean your toilets, pick-up your dog poo! After he gets dirty for about ten hours, tell him it’s an even trade for the labor. Now he just needs to cough-up $150.00 for the materials!
Don’t feel bad. I got friends who think I’m a tight ass because I wont make them a board at material cost. “But I can get a board from Roland for $350.00 and he makes boards for all the shops.”
Buck-up man! There’s a new south swell! Go enjoy.
Frankly the black is the problem.
I dont want to make a fin placement template, nor be there after they spray the blank to mark the fins, nor the same after the resin tint option.
Black is a pain in the arse and its all a mucky slimy river bed crossing, the easiest for me is to rattle can it, then take some gruff from the glassing establishment for doing such an ugly obviously non-professional thing.
Black boards do more than melt the wax, they’ll de-lam in hot sun.