I’ve been thinking for a while about shaping a stubbie hull between 6’8" and 7’0". What is the best blank to get? Is there a blank out there with the correct rocker?
Thanks,
Jim
Well that depends what rocker you want?
something with a lot of rocker could come out of a 7’2" ish blank (depending on the shape of the blank)
generally to flatten in out you need a bigger blank so you can trim the rocker out of the thickness
if you look for my thread “pics of the 6’10” pintail"
that was shaped from a 8’3" blank because the 7’0" blank I hade an option off didnt have the thickness I wanted nor the rocker shape so I went a lot bigger to allow myself to trim it down.
That said Most blanks are pretty good though… for my first board I simpley skinned the blank, flattened the rockerout of the tail from about 1/3rd from the nose, and turned the rails. Then I decided I wanted a concave in the nose and my 9’4" log was borne 
its awesome
6’8" Walker might work for a shorter hull. Same with 6’8" Evo from KingMac if it has a custom rocker.
7’2" Fish, 7’8" Egg, 8’2" Egg, 8’8" Egg from Surfblanks America when they become available.
The natural rocker in the majority of blanks these days is entirely wrong for most hulls so you may need to start with a longboard blank.
I just did a hull from a Walker 7’11" hybrid from their catalog, but I glued it to my 1968 rocker and cut it to 7’0". You just have to visualized the board inside the blank
The 7-8 Terry Martin from Bennett USA is perfect. You can also order HULL (L is the symbol) rocker which is almost the exact same bottom rocker as the original Liddles. It’s perfect for hulls. I shaped 2 so far a 7-0 and also a 7-4 you can net a 7-8 if needed. Very easy to shape only 2-3 cute per side and the rails are perfect for 50/50 hull rails. They also have the 8-8 Terry Martin for longer hulls. Of course Terry Martin shaped them lot’s of history there.
Thanks guys for the response. Now I have an idea of what blank to get. I want to be able to get a good S-deck out of it. I’ll be basically trying to copy my Liddle but a little shorter.
Jim
I’m looking for some help visualizing a hull cut from this blank,. Any help on where to start cutting? I’m thinking something around 6’8" - 7’0".
It needs to have no tail rocker. I know there are some hull heads out there that can help me.
It’s a 9’1" blank. I suppose I have to trim the nose off? Has anyone ordered a Liddle blank before?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQJLjYoQWB0&NR=1&feature=fvwp
Here is my friends 6’8" that I have the template for ,which just happens to be the funnest board for connecting sections at my favorite beach break.Notice the lack of tail rocker.
Since none of the hull-heads have responded, I'll take a stab at it. Maybe they'll jump in to correct me and then you'll have better advice.
I think the board does have some tail rocker (from looking at the photo). If I were going to try to duplicate it the old-school way, I'd take a rocker template off that bottom,or at the very least a complete set of interval measurements; and compare that to the blank. You could plot out the #s from the blank on a long piece of paper, and with a physical rocker temp from board you can see how it ''fits'' into blank. Taking some interval thicknesses off the board you're copying will give you a reference for how the deck line will ''fit'' into the blank also.
It's usually best to center up in the blank (to get a 7'0'' from 9'0'' blank, cut ~1' off each end). If you shift toward the nose or tail you're going to have significant refoiling work on bottom to get the rocker centered up again. That's a job for experienced shapers.
Actually I think the hardest part of ''fitting'' this board into that blank may be getting the nose flip (especially the deckside) out of the longboard-style blank.
If I was in your situation I'd cut 1' off each end like mike daniels suggested. If you cut an uneven amount off either end(ie. 6"off nose and 1.5' off tail) then the rockerwill change once you center it, the thick point in the blank will shift and the center thickness will decrease. If I looked at your blank diagram that you posted correctly, you should have about 1 5/8 or less tail rocker and 2 1/4" nose. I would add nose rocker which shouldn't be a problem and either keep or subtract tail rocker by planing more thickness out of the bottom middle of the blank which will bring tail rocker down more. good luck and next time think about ordering a custom rocker to reduce you blank cost and foam waste
You can get any rocker, length and foil you want from one of the EPS guys. No bending or refoiling involved.
Just sayin’…
Yeah, the nose kick is problematic if you go more than 5". The board in the picture looks like its 5"+. Typical hull design calls for 4"-5" NR, at least that’s what I’ve read here on Sways. I’d use a USB 73A -1/2"TR. Plenty of width in nose and tail. Here the problem would be excessive thickness. You’d have to take 3/8" off the bottom and 1/8" off the deck just to net 3" thickness. That’s a lot of foam dust…need to check rocker frequently because you can loose it quick mowing that much foam. My understaning is that hulls have a flatspot in the rocker through the mid-section, so the extra foam might be a blessing. Take 3/16" out of the mid-section first, and then plane tip to tail for the remaining 3/16".
Another approach is based on Paul Gross’ remarks from several years ago: “The
center rocker line is a bit straighter; with a soft break about 18” up.
It’s subtle. Not dead straight in the center. Not an even curve either. I
really don’t know how critical it is. That’s what was in the old (Clark Foam) 8’1"
Brewer blank, and it worked, so we stuck with it. -P. Gross" The CF Brewer 8-1 was replaced by the CF Rawson 8-5 in '86 (not to be confused with CF 8-5A) Closest match now would be the USB 8-5A. The idea here is to preserve the “gun” mid-section rocker, cutting off a sizeable amount of the tail and nose, which allows for greater width in these areas.
BTW, there is a plethora of information on Hull-building in the archives…
Thanks for the reply’s. Two quick questions before I start the board. How do I go about adding nose rocker? I’m guessing I just start 1/3 off the nose on the bottom and go up right?
Second. What do people mean when they say tail “lift” on hulls?
If nomastomas wants to post links ,that might help.I made it through about page 78 on “show me your hulls” and gave up.Lots of pics but not a lot of info. I’ve searched quite a bit.
make it through farther in the "show your hull" thread. find a rocker/profile shot of a board made by an accomplished shaper and studyit. the most"hull" should be under your front foot ish area, and slowly fade to flat behind the fin...i don't understand your first question...as for the 2nd one:tail kick helps the bottom go flat behind the fin. It is not much tail kick at all..like a slight bump, but "hulls" do not have even rocker. A bump to the nose rocker, and the bump to the tail. thats my take on it, someone tell me if this is wrong...good luck ekim