Board #3 needs a lil help

General Discussion
1

Hey all,

I cut into my wife’s blank today (9’8" Y from US Blanks).  Making a 9’2" x 22" x 3 1/16" Squaretail Noserider.  Definitely learning a lot as I go and so thankful for all of the wisdom that’s been shared on Swaylock’s and in the different videos I’ve watched online.  For some reason I seem to be pretty heavy-handed as I’m planing and sanding in certain areas.  I’m right-handed and am using a sanding rasp from Greenlight Surf Supply (love the tools Brian makes!) and the nose and tail seem a lil too thinned out at the top right of the nose and bottom left of the tail.  Definitely gonna have to watch that as I go.  I still have about 2-3 more passes with the planer to get down to 3 1/16".

So here are my questions.  1. What should the thickness be on the nose and tail? 2. What measurements should I be using for the rail bands (Doing 50/50s all the way)?  I learned originally from Brian at Greenlight; but, can’t for the life of me remember how you determine the measurements for the Tuck, 1, 2 and 3 bands???

Thanks in advance for any help.  I’ll put up some pics in a bit

 JD

2

Hey jdaloha

Depending on what bottom contours you are doing can affect the thickness of the nose and tail. Personally I like my logs super bowled nose to tail and then keep some thickness in the stringer but make the rails, nose and tail super bladey.  The thinner the edges of the board, the more responsive it will feel and thicker they are feel but tend to run longer and faster once they are moving. If you’re putting a mad concave in the nose then I would suggest around 3/4 inch (right on the tip) because you need it a little thicker to roll into the concave, but provided you keep the stinger thick you could go near 1/2 to a 1/4.

I sorta go off what I see and feel for rails though so good luck with that question

Hope this helps

Felix

3

Leave enough thickness in tail for fin box(es)