I live right by the beach but usualy have to drive 10 - 30 miles to find anything reasonable (often much further).
My home beach rarely gets anything but small wind swell - 2 to 4ft faces, 4 - 6 second period and slow and crumbly.
What I want to do is build a board to catch this surf (just because its right by my home). I do ocasionaly go in with a 9'6" and catch the odd one but I get the feeling that I need something a few feet bigger as I weigh 220lbs.
Any suggestions?
Please don’t laugh, but try prone surfing a SUP before you shape something. You might be suprised at how you can catch everything without adding a few more feet.
Wider and thicker can make you feel giddy.
Try a lot of different boards is my advice.
When I got my 9'2", it felt tiny compared to my 9'8" noserider.
When I got my 7'2", it made the 9'2" feel ridiculously large.
When I got my 6'4", it made the 7'2" feel like a longboard.
My wave count is the same on all the boards, believe it or not. I am only 170 pounds, but a 9'6" should be plenty to catch anything that moves even at 220 pounds. JMHO.
We have a go to spot here that only breaks when its 20 feet outside, the waves die out and then reform in this little bay. Weak, gutless and maybe 2’ but has some shape. I ride a 10’ by 25" by 3 1/4 log there and it works very well to make the most of the slop.
The deal with longer vs wider, longer is a bit harder to swing around when paddling where, for me, the width doesn’t get in the way.
We SUP the place too but that can be tough with all of the currents and bumps.
Thanks guys, I was wondering if there was a design out there that is specific for my home break type of waves.
I could do "wide" no problem.
i have never tried the SUP and i usually dis on them. but i alays wanna go out whether its flat or over head. and i usually just ride with my fish. the longboard is too hard to turn ino the wave. i would definately like to get my hands on a SUP for those ankle to knee high days. i think that would be ur best bet. im sure a nearby shop might have one u can rent. alot of places are experimenting with them these days. or if there is a contest in town. it seems like they always have SUP demos. good luck.
SUP’ing is really hard when there is wind. A friend of mine has one, but he only uses it when it’s really clean.
And that’s not often here on the north sea
I’d look into a mini simmons. They FLY. Plane and catch waves like a long board but are maneuverable. I’ve taken my 5’6 to San O (in less than desirable conditions) and have had tons of fun on it and I’m 6’2 190lbs. IMHO, they beat a LB all day long…if you like to do more than trim.
[img_assist|nid=1048359|title=Mini Simmons|desc=5’6 MS|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]
try a more paralell outline
i agree. i prefer the fish over a longboard anyday. "feral dave". checked out the link u posted. they are some beautiful shapes. i really liked the magic mullet and the s/s. but i liked all the shortbaord shapes. wish you guys were in jersey. some of the nicest models ive ever seen.
bigjohn,
i surf quite similar conditions and weigh 225lb.. my longboard is 9'4" x 24 x 3-1/8".. i also ride a 5'11" x 22-1/2 x 3 quad.. when it gets chest high or better i have a 6'1" placebo rocket shape.
i started much longer and actually narrower 10'2" x 22 x 3.. fair amount of rocker.. over time i wanted to ride shorter boards and realized that i needed to be a stronger paddler.. i have found (for me) that stronger paddling has greatly increased my wave count more than changing shapes..
a 9'6 should do you fine.. if anything maybe add some volume and talk with a shaper that knows the waves and your surfing style.. just a guess, but i would think 9'6" x 23 x 3-1/2 with a little extra volume in the nose..
hope some of this helps
justin
a high volume Fat-Bat quad would be my suggestion...the wider and fuller planshape allows easy paddling and the plane great, no need to generate speed as the area and rocker as well as bottom contours and quad does this for you, the high volume will allow you to sit higher on the water and plane very easily, once you have the speed, again the planshape and bottom contours make this board easy to turn but still holds its speed well.....anyway, check em out at www.moresurfboards.com
or pM me for pics and MORE info if anyone is interested.....
Hey guys,
I read a lot on here, just have not posted that much. I am looking to get a short, wide, thick, round tail small wave board. I really want something in the 5’8-5’10 range. I am about 5’10, 190-200 pounds. I am talking to my local shaper about shaping a 5’10 by 3" thick (thickest point), and 23" wide (widest point), and a round tail. . He wants to do a single to double concave with a v off the tail. I was thinking about even going down to a 5’8. I just want a FUN little board to whip around in small surf…I figure with a quad, and a little rocker I could surf it in a little bigger surf as well. Anybody have any suggestions? I want great buoancy and being able to whip it around a bit. I really trust my shaper, but I am just trying to gather info. Next board I really want to try to shape my own. Every one on here is very passionate and make me want to try to shape a board. I have also been reading a lot on mini simmons… Anyone in my height/weight category have any experience with them?
Regarding the mini simmons question:
i'm 6'2 190 and ride a 5'6 mini simmons (posted a few messages above). it has more than enough float. i've been considering going down to a 5'4. these boards will seriously put some fun back in your surfing....especially on those smaller days.