yep sir - ee
made a seven one and lent it to pat o’keefe
dor a trip to kauai to surf pakala spring>summer 1968
he burried it on the beach so he didn’t have to carry it out to waimea.
it wasn’t there when he came back in the morning
or he just forgot where he burried it…
I never saw it again,I still have a deep believed fantasy that I will see it again.
the best board I had made to that date ,every board after that was less after .
the bank in the turn was free on the glide .
The other film to watch is j.hackman in cosmic children I think
he lays the board all the way over on the rail with impunity.surfing credible size sunset…
now as to the flat that became important by late 69-70 + the flat obsession gained steam
especially after cabell rode the grey ghost and caught the collective attention going flat out fast.
Diff in an artickkle sait the flat bottoms the only thing that held em in the water was the fin…
now back to up rails in the nose ,refer to clark greg liddle and the displacement hull research
put out a call for Kirk Putnam he should have an archive of samples.
in action videos check the you tube for jimmy Gamboa…
in the joel tudor vid he seems to get better with each wave
in the sequence of waves .editing perhaps but thes ‘‘Hulls’’ are at first quite
almost squirly,but they have a high angle holding moment.pinched rails?
o.k. but the inside tip is keep em round just make em smaller…
the up rails forward can push water when you try to tip ride
Tail riding Man-you-veer ing is AOK but you gotta time your turn
as there is somewhat of a delay on fore and then cut back.the bank off the white water
the round bottom holds well in the airated - ness.single fin and FLEXY is the call
over finned makes it gagg.‘’
…ambrose…
micro tweeks make a diffrence
but subtle is the RX.