This isn't strictly a shaping question but I figured this is the most knowledgeable group out there to answer this question.
I'm 6'2", 175lbs and started surfing about 20 years ago, I'm 35 years old. About 10 years ago I got a career and a family and made the switch to longboards for the usual reasons. Lately I've been getting in the water a lot more (twice a week versus twice a month) and got a little bored with the 9'6", so I picked up a fish-inspired 6'10", thruster set-up, 22 7/8 wide and 2 7/8 thick, with a swallow-tail. I hadn't ridden a board under 9 feet in a long time, and was surprised I was able to catch waves on the thing. I'm actually having quite a lot of fun with it.
All during my surfing career, my achilles heel has been catching waves. Once I'm up and going I am competent, can do the usual array of maneuvers and do not have any issues with my ability to stay on my feet. I would describe my surfing ability as "respectable." Nothing to write home about, but I have a lot of fun. I am embarassed that after all these years, the takeoffs are still the most difficult part of surfing for me. I feel like my wave count isn't what it should be, even though I am still getting adapted to the 6'10". During an average session I'll miss at least half the waves I paddle for.
I want to get past this ridiculous part of my surfing and work hard to develop my skills in this area. I was shocked to even take off at all with the 6'10", and now I'm anxious to be riding more boards in the sub-7 foot range.
I find that the biggest issue I have with shorter boards is dragging my size 12 feet in the water on the takeoff. When I remember to pull them up (or even kick a bit) I catch a lot more waves.
The waves I ride are SoCal pointbreak type conditions, averaging knee to head high, pretty considerable crowds.
I'm going to leave the thread question wide open: what should I be riding?
I'm now 68, but when I was 35 yo, and 175 pounds, I rode a 7' 10'' x 21 1/2''. I had the best of all worlds with that board. I rode that board in beaches, reef breaks, and even took it to the NS and rode big Sunset with ease, all on the same board. My recommendation to you is to go longer and wider, to improve wave count and paddle efficiency. You'll still have the ability to do all the maneuvering on a wave that you want to.
No leash, I have a similar story, surfed from 1973-1991 in the northeast and then moved to WA. Just started surfing again at age 49. I am 6' 190lbs, and I picked up a 7' 3" superfish type board (thruster config) 3" thick and it works great, easy to paddle and catch waves on, dont know if it would be so easy if I went much smaller. I am a bit heavier than you but the added length and thickness gives me what I want, at least as I get back into it. WA waves probably alot like yours, just colder!
As an update, I paddled out the 9'6" in crowded First Point Malibu this afternoon. After 10 straight sessions on the 6'10", the 9'6" felt like a real tanker. The flip side was that in an hour I had a blast, got more than my fill of waves, and felt like I could really swing turns on the big board much better than before.
I'm headed to the Big Island for a week on Saturday. May take the 6'10" or just rent over there, not sure yet.
I think a whole other world of surfing is opening up for you. At your weight and age, there’s no reason why you can’t begin to explore boards of all shapes and sizes. There’s no rule that says you have to ride a 3" thick board if you’re over 35. You could easily get down to 2 1/2 thick and as short as 6’6, or shorter, if you, as you said, “work hard” to become a better surfer. If you ask me (I’m 45) it starts with building strength and endurance when your not in the water to make those twice-a-week sessions really count. A good surfing-specific workout routine will up your wave count more than you think - you’ll miss a lot fewer waves. That being said, if you’re fit and motivated, the world of “shortboards” is waiting for you, and you’ll be letting the waves determine what kind of board you grab.
I am 46 and worked through the same type of issue & am riding x 6’7" x 20.5" x 2 5/8" with no problems at 165 lbs. In my limited experience, if you’re not catching waves, you’re either not paddling hard enough or you are not on a steep enough part of the wave. You can help the paddling part by getting really good shape through swimming. As for later takeoffs, what worked for me (since I only get out once-twice per week) is to do 15-20 popups every day when I don’t surf. This will really speed up your popup and give you the confidence to take the later drop. If you look at some surf fitness videos you will see people popping up onto bosu balls which is good for training as well.
Another way of putting it; it’s easy to catch a wave if your are positioned well; but then you have to be on your feet and down the line very quickly.
I have remarked that as my paddling strength has increased over the past few months through more frequent go-outs, my wave catching ability has generally increased as well. It may simply be a question of physical fitness.
I am about your weight and age. Started surfing two years ago after a move from the middle of desert to so cal. I struggled a lot and i was always wondering how even way heavier guys could pick up waves like nobody’s business. more than the board, my observation has been that timing and sea knowledge are far more important. the guys/gals that catch most waves are positioned well. Anyhoo, why not try a fish. 6’2" retro fish around 21 1/2" x 2 3/4" would be plenty of board just for starters.
However, the cost of getting one to LA may be prohibitive, so have a look at Revolution's boards. http://www.revolutionsurfer.com/
I am around the same size as you, if not a little heavier, and I'm the same age. My paddle fitness is good and I've probably surfed at least 4 or 5 times a week since I was a kid up til now.
I ride a number of a boards from a 5'8" Keel fin fish to standard 6'1" thrusters to eggs etc and I have to say I'm spending more time on my 6ft McCoy Nugget than anything else at the moment.
Paddleability (?) and wave-catching is unmatched on these things. Great boards. Seems to be no compromise on performance from what I can tell after a few months R & D, too.