“Frosty” as we used to call him in high school was part of Punahou’s dominating waterpolo team of the era.
And even though we had guys like Keone Downing on our team at Kamehameha and one of the best pools on the island we always got smoked by Punahou and Iolani because they practiced all year round while us hawaiians were goofing off hanging at the beach. Frosty was one of the fastest in the water as was Aaron Chaney and some folk at Iolani. I think he got his name cause of the clorine’s affect on his hair…
All the 'polo crew no matter what school they went to spent most of their time body surfing sandy’s, makapuu, and panics. Being a good body surfer was part of being a good waterpolo player. There was no better on land training for body surfing than the rigors of water polo practice especially those eggbeater elbows out or with someone on your shoulders drills the coaches made us do. I think they just enjoyed watching a bunch of speedo clad freaks dry heaving in the showing after practice… The 'polo boys hung out togethor cause it was sport that never got any public respect in the age of football, baseball and basketball. Most of us were surfbum renegades anyway…
Personally I didn’t like bodysurfing too much because the more I liked swimming the more it seemed I like to wipeout so I could swim…But in the preleash days there was nothing better than taking off on the big ones outside after a wipe out trying to get to your board before the rock or the rip(like at Lanis) did…
how deep is it there Chip? I mostly keep my arms stretched out over my head when taking off under water (like when you dive into a pool) so my neck is at least a little bit protected when you hit the bottom).
Like many others who posted, I started this way. In my case, I was about 12 and couldn’t even think about money for a board. Used to sneak out from the guarded beaches in Ocean City during a building storm swell by swimming when a set was between me and the guards, and keeping down and still otherwise. At the time, I got a rush from their reaction when they spotted me - not happy campers… I still indulge from time to time (body surfing - I save baiting lifeguards for birthdays and other special occasions), but I lack two advantages I had then. First, I had been a major swimming pool jockey from age 8 to 11, and when swimming in the ocean, I felt like I do wearing a PFD today. Second, I found the flat-bottomed version of myself to be a far superior surf vehicle to today’s model with exaggerated roll :-> Some of you might want to try these: http://www.waveblades.com/WaveBladecloseup.html
I’ve had a pair for about 5 years, and I like 'em a lot. The extra torque on the arms & shoulders can take a little getting used to.
When the conditions are right, hollow, shorebreak, there is nothing like a good bodysurf session. For fins, you need two for maximum power. It does make a difference. I found the Vipers to be best. The short, stiff model, yellow dot works best for quick power and takeoffs as you’re taking off late. Tried the longer models but the stroke is too long for turning quick and powering up quick. The neoprene footpocket makes all the difference in the world. I don’t know why every fin company doesn’t make their fins like that. No more sores or rashes. Nice video here.
I found the flat-bottomed version of myself to be a far superior surf vehicle to today's model with exaggerated roll :->
That’s the belly right behind the nose rocker. I too have gone from seal to sea turtle. Speed isn’t as important to me as it used to be. Now instead of racing to make it past outside sets, I just take a breath and prepare for the pounding.
I was out at Baby Haleiwa this summer on an nice oevrhead day and only 2 other guys out. They were acting like total asses cause I was the third guy out.
They didn’t know that I lived across the street from 1983 to 1998, and that was my spot back then.
Well after a bit of hassling with one guy and me having to do some hard top turns right under his board. I notice a head out in the water. Some nutso blond haole is body surfing out there.
I go over to see who this pupule blond guy is and it’s Mark. We start talking about the old days and I forget what asses the other 2 were. Mark is one of the nicest guys, and a remarkable body surfer. People don’t realize how hard it is to body surf pipe. You get going think you’re doing OK, then all of a sudden you’re in the lip and getting thrown over the falls and into the washing machine. Mark takes off and goes all the way through. He said he’s living up at Kawela Bay in a friends house.
chipfish don’t get the respect he deserves. When are we gonna see his coffee-table book? when’s Surfer’s Journal gonna have a Dvd on him in their series on great photographers? ( chipfish comes before Devine, but after Cervais) or put out his own flick … *Walrus Glide? when?
Great stuff chip!
maybe “Walrus” from NJ might be interested in starring in this, as he’s an avid bodysurfer?
