bottom contour question?

Hello everyone, I am hoping this sparks some interest but isn’t too subjective. I am about to shape a mini simmons/displacement thing and I wanted to get your opinions on the bottom contours I am going for.

I want to have a pronounced convex nose, into V to flat out of the back. Is this going to work running keels at 0, 0.? 

I am also intrigued to hear how the convex displacement will effect the V ultimately. 

Thanks,

Rich

 

 

I’m no expert but it seems like your setup looks a lot like board’s I’ve seen in the shops. The thing about displacement hull it’s just going to help turn your board… it’s basically a rolled vee. If anything, I think it should flow with your vee…flattening the vee out the back
Might dial up speed, and possibly feel skatey. I could be off a little…

Thanks for the input. I was a bit worried about the transition from the nose into V. Never really thought of convex as rounded V but U are correct…

 

Nice approach. I was going to attack it the opposite way though. Now im second guessing. 

I was going to shape it a few times.

1-60/40 rails all convex bottom

2- shape in the V bringing the rails up to 

80/20ish, and blend V to flat. 

3-shape in an s deck

this could be entirely backwards thinking but i want to see a break in the convex rail to the V rail. 

After your comment im wondering if the nose will be too high, or low, depending on how u look at it. 

Thanks for sparking some new thoughts. 

 

 

 

I’m not sure if it matters what end you started on? Maybe some pro’s will chime in? But yeah, I think they do the hull convex deal first - then the vee if it’s called for…

Most rails from fins back is a very low rail- like 80/20, but goes to zero out back…but then a 60/40 rail - which is a fuller down rail…i don’t really think about it, I’ll say cut the rail bands basically how I want them, and then when im blending - I’ll blend it how I want it…

then you want a v bottom, or a convex bottom… I personally would take the convex bottom due to your setup…I think a more radical large panel v would be loose r…what you could do would be to do your convex bottom, and then run a harder panel vee into it! Id go this route. You want vee to help tilt rail on wider board’s…

I agree, i will try and get some pics to you when i start. 

Thanks,

rich

Rich - on my vee I just winged it with surform and block sanding…I kinda knock the edge of rails down first - right smack in front of fins…take down the rail to depth I wanted…zero out my v - both to my end points up board and out the tail block side…bein I’m a amateur still - I use pencil marks to guage my depth of vee, length of vee etc…yeah, I think your board should be fine. I would prob roll the bottom edge of nose section a bit… ya know big wide nosed board’s tend to have that rolled edges up there…but i didn’t go crazy on mine, but I did put a fairly decent roll on edges! FYI - I met a gal who built her own knee board, and man she put a 1/2" of a rounded edge… but mines in the radius of 3/16" @ the very nose on bottom up…

I have made a few mini sims, and i think you need some kind of concave in the back to work well, although im sure someone around here has built one with a v right through.

Good thought finsout. I was going to add some double concave from the middle out the back i think. Depending on where i go with my fins, i might as well put the kitchen sink somewhere in there as well. Haha

im pretty excited, so we will see. I am debating in buying two blanks and killing the firat one for educational purposes. 

Thanks for the affirmation. 

My GD 2cents?

Why not start with a flat bottom? More over my suggestion would be to abandon the vee and any hull ideas.

Why? Simple! I’m an olphart and we have already done that and I feel unless you are particularly blessed in your surfing you’ll come in below your expectation.

Again and this is the truth! Recently the surf was small and I didn’t go out and parked my ass in my chair  watched boy and buddy test some longboards, o.k. fine, here is this cat just rippin’ the inside wave after wave got my attention, saw him goin’ in and up we go, cool guy 'bout 24 very low key and humble, asked to check out his board and you know what? Flat! Hey the guy had talent but it sure as hell made me think. 

BTW concaves crave energy…

I agree with you matt. Flat would probably work way better.

 

The reason I am going tis route is the my first board was a fish that was flat, or so i assumed) with plywood keels I made. Loved it, took 3 days with a sureform and the smile on my face while surfing it was probably real annoying.

My second board was going to be flat as well…more of a rusty slayer type board… but the resident shaper gave me some pointers throughout the process. It was a lot of info and application without much planning (non at all). The board came out so thin they couldn’t put plugs in it. haha, i surfed it once for good measure and sold it.

 

This time around, I wanted to set a goal to shape exactly what I set out to shape, while giving myself some lessons and new experiences. One could follow up this comment by asking why don’t you focus on one thing until you get it right…

My answer would be stupid so one shouldn’t ask.

I am sure I will be following your advice on my next go around.

 

Best,

Rich

Ask yourself What do you think this board will be like to surf? How will it Handle? What will be the limits and where will it excel? 
Start with an idea of what you want the board to do. Then working from that point ask what boards handle those conditions well. Then ask what can I do to make that better or work in a slightly different way. From what I see the forward roll an all that V is going to produce a board that will be the best board for spinning out that was ever shaped. It would makea great Board for making a video of wipe outs. Might sort of work if you do a quad fin set with each fin base 6’ long and at least 8’ long. Ok a little harsh but why waist time materials and money producing something that has already been proven to not work.
Sorry if this seems a little harsh. But talking about what rails to use is like saying how can I make this dog poop look better. Go back and think about how you want your next board to work then turn to what has been done and see what you can learn from those designs and what you can do to improve these.

hahahahahah, I am laughing so hard right now. Thanks for honesty, and not too harsh at all. I think 6’ fins would be a tremendous addition.

maybe I will just run the convex to flat. the advice is what i needed to hear since I don’t even have a board right now. it would suck to finish and have something terrible. It would however be the best spinner outer ever shaped though…I love it

Cheers Artz

 

Just my 2 bit opinion but o with a slight rolled nose into a flat roll the nose rails up and into an egg rail with a touch of edge into hard tail rails,  Flat into a slight channal with a v between the fins and channel off the back lower rocker. 

 If you are doing this by hand make a long board as wide asa 1/2 sheet of sand paper so 4 wide by about 2 foot long set up so that you ca use sticky back paper of glue the paper on with disc adhesive.  This will help you in smoothing out all the humps and dips you will get from a sureform. 

agreed bout a wide sanding block after surform n down ridges after planing… I just made me a 11" x 4" plywood sanding block. It works excellent btw! Just use long passes through out the flats to smooth the whole tamale… it should all look even… check the shadows! Poke tips up etc… trim the spine of stringer poking up if need be… on bottom I trim from center towards tips, and deck tips towards center. There’s prob other ways, but this is what I’m doing now. For deck(nose flip area) you might get a ‘spoke shave’ it comes in handy to trim stringer, or thin nose foil…Try : www.foamez.com