Long time since I've been here, but might as well contribute a bit.
Back in 1973, my first year surfing, I heard about this spot on southern Vancouver Island that was a point break and supposed to be good in the winter.
So, a week before Christmas I threw my wetsuit in the trunk of my 1965 GTO and headed south.
My Goat had a 389 bored out .030 with two Carter AFB carbs that each flowed around 650 CFM as I recall. Set-up on a manual progressive linkage I basically drove the car around using one carb and the other came into play when I stomped it. With a Muncie four speed aluminum case tranny and a Hurst shifter, Hooker headers and all the good bits and pieces gleaned from parts books and mag articles in the valve-train area that sucker would get up and go when urged to.
The old joke was I could pass anything on the highway except a gas station.
Mileage was terrible, to say the least, but gas was barely 50 cents a gallon so who cared?
Anyway, I arrived at the point spot late in the afternoon to find a guy I'd met earlier that year hanging out. We went to the local hotel for dinner and a few beers while talking story and he said I could stay in the local surfer's clubhouse if I wanted. There was no sign of any surf but Derek thought there was a swell enroute and was staying the night in his van.
I bunked in that night and slept pretty good until I became aware of new and different sounds outside.........coming from the ocean.
It was barely light yet when I got out of my sleeping bag and wandered out to the front window to take a look.
I literally could not believe my eyes as a set broke in perfect symetry, each wave peeling perfectly for what seemed well over a hundred yards. I had seen only crappy beach break before although I'd seen pics of Rincon, but I'd not ever seen anything like this!
Derek was up shortly and we went to the hotel again for a good breakfast before surfing.
I had one slight problem in that I had no surfboard, nor fins, having brought along only my wetsuit. I had no racks on the GTO, which is why I had no board.
The tide filled in and the swell got a bit bigger and soon the one local living there at the time showed up and chatted with Derek about going out. I introduced myself and mentioned I'd met his Mom earlier that year and that was the first time I saw Jim Van Dame.
He and Derek went out and rode perfect waves for the next couple of hours while I went insane on the beach trying to find some kind of wave riding vehicle.
Rummaging under the clubhouse I came up with a plastic wedge shaped thing that I supposed could be belly ridden should I be able to:
1...Get out.
2: Actually catch a wave.
A mere half hour later I lay on the beach, exhausted, frustrated, pissed off and generally wondering if I'd ever be able to walk again, so tired was my body.
Jim and Derek enjoyed many long rides, Jim riding some backside and some frontside. He was a natural goofy but learned to switch living right at a good righthand point.
I finally recovered after some time spent sitting in the sauna and then was absolutely blown away when Jim came in and offered me the use of his board. We'd just met and I was a beginner kook but he'd seen my efforts at trying to get outside with the plastic wedge, where I'd throw it over the white-water then swim like a crazy fool towards it only to do it over and over again.......but ended with my never getting out.
He felt sorry for me I guess.
I wrapped the bungee cord leash around my ankle, waited for a lull in the sets and made it out quite easily, which is one of the reasons this spot is so popular, it's easy to get out.
After three attempts to catch a wave and stand up I finally succeeded and was rewarded with a ride of 50 feet or so which was just enough to convince me that this wave was going to play a big role in my future, one way or another.
Anyway, the fellow that lent me his board that day passed away last October in California and a bunch of us that knew him are meeting with his Mother and one of his sisters on August 23rd. to send his ashes out the river and across the bar that he paddled over so many times back in the day. I'll be there but the GTO that carried me there the very first time I saw the place break and actually caught and rode a wave is nothing but a fond memory nowadays.
For me, James Tyler Van Dame will always be a fond memory also.
RIP Jimmy, you left way too soon amigo, and my heart buckled a little bit when I heard we'd lost you.
Take care.