Bottom shape on a semi-gun

What would you do with the bottom of this board?

I was thinking flat in the nose to single concave through the center to vee in the tail with a 2+1 fin set-up so that I have the option to ride as a single fin or 2+1. Looking to maximize wave catching ability while maintining some maneuverability to carve. Thinking more of retro carving style than modern snappy surfing. Entry rocker is medium and tail rocker is medium. Thickness will be 2 1/2" but carried out to the rails and nose. I was thinking 50/50 rails in the nose, to 60/40 in the center to hard down rail in the tail. My design knowledge is very limited and this is my first build. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

More info on and pics of the build are here:

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=373386;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

Thanks!

First board, keep it simple; flat to flat to flat. You don’t need to mess up a rocker with concaves or V on a semi gun 'cause the waves you will be riding will provide all the lift, drive, and speed to keep it loose. If you try a concave or V and get it wrong, you’ll be bummed.

I’d keep your rails boxy round; just round off the corners of the rail after you’ve banded the deck. Sort of real neutral looking. You can put more curve into the the bottom of the rail where the nose rocker breaks to make it a bit more forgiving, but if your rocker is right, it won’t make that much difference.

You’ll want to lose 1/2 to 3/4 inch of thickness over your rail bands at the thickest point of the board and scale it from there. Keep an eye on the profile the outline makes with the deck and bottom…it should mimic the foil at the stringer. It should flow smoothly. That’ll help keep your rail bands consistent and blended.

I’ve been happy with a shallow angle, 2" wide chine along the bottom of the rail fading away at the fins. This will further free up the rail a bit when things get hairy. Don’t round it though. Blend the edges but keep the rest flat. I read that George at Plus One and maybe Bill Barnfield do the same thing. It would be a really subtle feature that you should only be able to see by sighting down the bottom with a straight edge.

Whatever fin set up you go for, I would definitely install fin boxes that give you the maximum amount of adjustment possibilities.

If you still go with concaves or V, be subtle with it and be sure it all flows together. The last thing you want is to get to the bottom of a double overhead wave with a board that double clutches with the bog and go or spins like a hocky puck.

I agree with LeeV, keep it simple. No need for complex bottom on that. A ‘‘soft’’ flat would be fine, the tail is narrow enough

you won’t need V to get it on a rail.

If you haven’t already, read Barnfield’s tapered rail band thread; he pretty much just hands over the goods on how it’s done.

Double concave , to spiral vee in tail. simple and easy

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First board, keep it simple; flat to flat to flat. You don’t need to mess up a rocker with concaves or V on a semi gun 'cause the waves you will be riding will provide all the lift, drive, and speed to keep it loose. If you try a concave or V and get it wrong, you’ll be bummed…

If you still go with concaves or V, be subtle with it and be sure it all flows together. The last thing you want is to get to the bottom of a double overhead wave with a board that double clutches with the bog and go or spins like a hocky puck.

Agreed. I have ridden some classic single-fin guns circa the early 70’s (I think), and they worked fine with flat bottoms.

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Agreed. I have ridden some classic single-fin guns circa the early 70’s (I think), and they worked fine with flat bottoms.

When this is done, Sak, you gotta take it out for spin and lemme know how I did.

Something to keep in mind…

If this board is for local surf, intended for the biggest of ridable days, you’re talking about surf in the DOH range. I don’t know what particular breaks you surf, but when it gets that big here, it’s really jacking, thick and fast. You want to get in early, find your line, set up, and hope you make the barrel. You’re not doing many cutbacks, that’s for sure.

The semiguns I do for local guys in local waves are pretty simple… but they have a bit of belly in the entry rocker section, then flat, then a bit of rolled vee in the tail. Not too boxy in the rails, but medium full, with a softened, tucked edge the whole way, except in the last 18 inches or so, when it gets hard. Down rails are fine, if you’re going for the retro feel, but I do a regular “modern rail” profile.

Good choice for a first board.

More realistically I expect to ride it in head+ barrels and some waves that wouldn’t really require a semi-gun, just cause I feel like stylin’ on a gunny single fin, or a HH swell with alot of east in it and the waves are jacked and closing out. But, yeah if it could handle the very “rare” 10ft clean day we get then that would be great and if it could get me in early enough to make it that would be even better cause honestly I start feeling uncomfortable around 8ft. Thanks for the help!

Dj,

Slight belly in the middle, vee is easy to shape. dont do concaves on your first board. keep it simple, keep it real!

Do what feels right, and you will be a happier person for it.

And oh yeah, make sure to put probox, lokbox, 4wfs or… in it so you can final design by playing with fins and their position.

Then post a link to your wipe outs in double overhead surf …

Yeeha