My fin screw was stripped. The first thing I tried was to tap a larger hole size and use a larger set screw. This led to fin failure. I have tried using resin to create new material and then tapping that, not successful for me. I wanted a more secure solution. I went to Home Depot and rummaged through some pull out drawers to find this.
!0-24 threads.
Make sure you buy the right part, those bins get lots of chaff thrown in and it’s easy to grab the wrong bag. Yes, I came home with the wrong 10-32 by mistake. Buy the 10-24 threads.
I used a 5/16 drill bit, a 9/32 probably would have been perfect. I was able to get some threading when installing and testing, but not much. The plastic is hard so it’s a fine line. I wrapped up the insert and vised it. After putting earmuffs and goggles on, I cut the end off at an angle to match how the screw feeds at the bottom of the box. I finally found a use for the Dremel cut off wheels.
I used some 3-minute epoxy to hold the insert in place. Next, I grinded off the exposed portion sticking above the board.
And here’s after grinding
It feels smoother than it looks in the picture. I think I will put a file to it.
When I inserted the fin and tightened the screw, I’ve never felt the end so solid before. I’m usually thinking “just a bit more…” then feeling that slight loss of pressure at the start of strippage.
I understand why manufacturers don’t use inserts. But I have to ask, how many times can one change out fins before thread failure? This number certainly is not in the hundreds. I think this brass insert will last longer than the standard plastic threads.
McMaster-Carr is your friend: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=1bi5304
If they don’t have it, it doesn’t exist. If you use stainless inserts, you
can use the standard set screws as they are stainless also. Don’t use
zinc coated or mild steel ever!!! By the way, your inserts are probably
brass coated not solid brass as they are from China… Just my 2c…
Thanks for sharing this, I think it’s the right way to repair the Futures screw hole.
I need to fix one, too. The screw does not hit the notch in the fin, instead it presses against the part of the tab below the notch. The most difficult part will be to drill at exactly the right angle.
I think maybe I’ll use a file instead of a drill to make the hole larger.
How about heating the insert before screwing it in, so that it melts itself into the plastic?
Nice save
It might be in your best interest to look for a stainless steel insert to match the metal of the screw.
I am recalling something I learned years ago about different kinds of metal fusing together…
I forget the name of the process…