I have a few boneyard boards that are snapped and was thinking of putting them back together. Anyone have pictures of what they use to hold the pieces together with the correct rocker? I tried putting a board back together a few years ago and after i left it to set the middle droped down and i ended up with a big glassed together V. Never tried again since
Love your quote, man…
What I like is this - your basic plank or whatever, plus shingles, shims and so on, some wax paper ( so it doesn’t stick to the plank) and then some web straps to hold it all in place. I first set up the jig with shims and such so it will hold everything just right - adjusting by eye, tack the shims to keep 'em in position and strap one half down to the plank. Butter the busted end of the other half well with cabosil mix…though now I might use Gorilla glue, great adhesive that’ll expand a little to replace squashed foam and isn’t misery to sand… put 'em together snug, strap the other half down, double check for alignment and go have a beer.
Usually, I’d do a sketch of this, but at the moment I am on the laptop, new puter just came in the door as I was writing this…
hope that’s of use
doc…
I’ve seen simpler setups but here’s one approach:
http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page.cgi?ID=493
I think if you search in the archives you’ll find another method that used clamps attached to a vertical post, I remember thinking it looked pretty good.
Quote:
I think if you search in the archives you’ll find another method that used clamps attached to a vertical post, I remember thinking it looked pretty good.
hiya boardwrecker skels !
…this here is the one my brother made to fix boards he brings home from his work …
I think I posted it under "snapped board jig " or something , a fair while ago ! [that thread I think had the diagram he drew on the back of the print , showing how it works. Sorry , I can’t find that shot / diagram at the moment .]
hope this helps !
ben
edit …found it !
it was under “photos …share the stoke !” p.4 …
in case that for some reason doesn’t work for you , here ya go …
p.s. - I reckon you need to change your name from "skeletor " to “Duane” [Peters [the skateboarder]…aka “Master of Disaster” !!]
Hola a todos!,
I’ve found this pic at www.boardlady.com. It’s very similar to the method I use to join broken longboards. The only difference is the tensioning system: I simply make one loop at each end of the rope, then fit tail and nose into them and finally tension the rope just turning a pencil at the mid point of the rope (like you do whe cutting a blooding wound on an arm or a leg)
I like Doc’s system. When I was a lifeguard in So Cal I used to pick up broken boards off the beach after every decent swell. I put together dozens of broken boards using a thin piece of plywood and C clamps to hold the rocker in place. It’s really not that hard.
I used to cut squares of fibreglass and lay them diagoanally across the break like overlapping diamonds then wrap the whole thing in a layer of 6 oz.
I loved the boards of one well known San Clemente shaper. He sort of catered to the Range Rover crowd. Made beautiful boards that seemed to break pretty readily. Had a whole quiver of his repaired broken boards in the rafters of the shop.
Yes, you have it there. I don’t find it’s necessary to pull the pieces of board together lengthwise with another clamping or tensioning system, though I notice that the Boardlady is using an expanding foam as a replacement ( in the above illustration) , so that might just necessitate something with a little more zip.
I use a slightly different glassing system: rather than diamonds across the break, I go with two bands of cloth around the board, one narrow and one wider. This tends to keep the board from being overly stiff in any one area ( though the diamonds would work well too ) and the flex stays about the same.
Let me recommend http://www.boardlady.com/repairs.htm as one very nicely illustrated site and as illustrations of the ‘rightest’ way to do it for just about all ding repairs. Amusingly, her tool selections and mine are identical in many respects. I wish somebody like her would set up here in New England, so I could accellerate how fast I am getting out of the ding repair biz. Funny thing is, she’s another boatbuilder.
anyhow - hope that’s of use
doc…
Mahalos everyone for the pics and tips. I never thought of using Gorilla glue to bond the pieces together and might try it. Is that what is foaming out of the buckle on the epoxy Al Merrick? (from neira’s post). I think i might use something like Chips picture as i have limited space and it will fit nicely in my carport without having to keep taking it down.
If you like quotes making fun of politicians check out http://www.amusingquotes.com I love making fun of those donkeys and elephants
[On his running for California Governor]
It’s the most important decision I’ve had to make since 1978 when I decided to get a bikini wax.
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=3624;guest=1660427
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=3625;guest=1660427
The above photos are of a snapped board that I am pulling the rocker back into. It is pretty simple really. It is two pieces of Pacific Maple joined together. After preparing the two half’s, removing torn glass and bits of stringer etc they are clamped into the jig and the whole lot is turned over. Normally the tail is weighed down or tied down via a piece of VB cord through the legrope plug. I have one of those ratchet tie down straps which is attached to the front cross member of the jig and tension is applied until the board returns to its original rocker. (or as close as possible) I sight down the rail and place a metre rule over the break and adjust until the board is fair. The under side (the deck) is taped and a mix of Q-cell / Aerosil is poured into the void. Not to runny, not to thick. The board is left to cure, removed from the jig and ground and glassed.platty.
Attachments: 
boardjig2.jpg (33.6 KB) boardjig3.jpg (33.8 KB)
Let’s see-
That’s expanding pourable urethane foam in use in that pic in Neira’s post., the Gorilla Glue foams/expands less, and it’s much easier to find, most hardware stores carry it. Certainly worth a try, it’ws chemically very close to the expanding foam.
One problem with a vertical jig is you’re limited by headroom: not a lot of rooms have 9’+ ceiling heights. And you’ll need at least that for most longboards. For what it’s worth, I find that the basicly sound boards ( which are worth putting together ) are generally newer longboards of lightweight construction.
For that matter, how many broken boards are you going to be fixing? If it’s not more than 1 or 2 a year, is it worth making and mounting a permanent jig or are you better off just having a system using available stuff that you can find easily when you need it? Like many other highly specialised tools and jigs, storage space and working around it becomes a real issue. You’d have to see my workshop to really see this principle in action.
And…about that quote site. Damn, you realise of course that any hope I had of accomplishing anything this morning is completely shot…
Thanks…
doc…
Skeletor,
The yellow foam injected beteewn the 2 parts of that AlMerrick gun is just polyurethane (PU) foam, very useful when the board has not broken cleanly. You can buy a can of it (the smaller, the better, since once open you can’t store the remaining part of the can anymore) at any hardware for only 3-4$, including small tube to reach deep holes. When cured (2 hours) just cut the excess with razorblade, but wait till next day for glassing over it, since PU will let go some gases till curing is finished.
To reach a good bonding with the old polyurethane foam of the broken board, you need to slightly wet this old foam, using water spray, for example.
CAUTION! Don’t use this PUfoam if your board has EPS core, PU will eat EPS like piranhas eat meat!!
