Here are a couple of pictures of my seventeen footer which got smashed by a ten foot shorebreak wave which picked it up and hammered it nose first into the sand. The board came up in three pieces.
Plank on frame timber boards can usually be completely restored after this kind of thing and I have been patiently chipping away at the job, which was a bit of a mind bender at first. The second picture was taken today and shows the completely rebuilt structure prior to reshaping.
Roy
WTF are you doing/thinking with a board that long and unmaneuverable in large shorebreak? Lucky you have anything to work with at all.
'course your feet may be smaller than mine, so your ten foot shorebreak might be a little/a lot small than I’m thinking.
Hi Honolulu,
I regularly surf whatever this beach throws up on this board and hardly ever lose it, it is an amazingly maneuverable craft for one so big. It rides the tube nicely. On this particular day I had been out a little too long without breakfast, so WTF was I doing going out without breakfast?! Of course my feet are strictly of the twelve inch variety, the same kind of foot they use to measure waves in big wave contests. So ten feet isn’t really that big ( it was probably more like twelve )but it was a closeout.
Roy
17 feet. And made of wood. A lot of wood. Thats not a surfboard… thats a frigging boat. And not even a small boat at that. We have a 12’ aluminum fishing boat… and that thing is pretty dang big. I have a 12’ paddle/surf board, I surf it when the waves are about 3" it works great… But I wouldn’t even think about paddling it out in anything over 3’. Do you have a death wish? Why 17 feet long man? I am so frigging glad you don’t surf my home break on that monstrosity.-Carl
Hey Skipper, interesting and unusual design.
You’ve basically approached surboard design as a ‘boat’
and have melded the two. Was there some philosophical
insight that led to this design?
What can be said in reference to the ‘tunnel fin’ which
we all dont know much about:
It may be suggested that combining a ‘tunnel fin’ with a board (17ft) that is
longer and heavier than the boards of the 50’s is hardly a
‘proof of concept’ for modern surfboard design.
I imagine that you engage in quite a bit of glide and
keep the turning at a minimum.
Turns better than an outrigger canoe for sure!
Here are a couple of pictures of my seventeen footer which got smashed by a ten foot shorebreak wave
Roy,
Do you have any pics of you on these waves on these boards? That would make for some great photos.
Regards,
Matt.
Hello Carl,
The beast turns like a dream and loves big waves . It’s really great too because you can roll under big sets. As you have guessed, she’s a bit of a crowd beater!
Roy
Hello HalSose,
The beast doesn’t have a tunnel, just a whopping single fin. Yes we glide, and turn all the time, the board is so loose, that it’s hard to stop it from turning. It’s just a matter of getting used to it. Regarding philosophical insight, yes there was some. It sort of went along the lines of ‘Bigger is better’ Cheers, Roy.
Hello Matt,
No I don’t have any big wave pics, but here are a couple of the board cruising. Hopefully we will get some bigger waves soon, although my idea of a big wave is a lot different from Cheyne’s.
Roy
The Quantum Leap, backward. Very enlightening.
With a board that long, you could almost stay home and still go surfing 
So wait…
It’s not ok to open a thread to try (try, again) to have a civil discussion about the performance of a unique board currently being ridden on the north shore, that’s a lockable/movable offense…
But its perfectly fine to pull up a four year old thread, written by a banned poster who isn’t allowed to respond, simply for the sake of ridiculing him?
I’m disgusted.
I love this place, but this is really starting to turn me off.
Hey… I thought this was a new thread. I saw Roy’s name at the top and thought he was somehow let back in to Swaylocks. I was thinking “how open and forgiving” of us… in the spirit of the new year, I think we should invite Roy back. I’d much rather blast him directly, than in his absence
In all fairness, I was just reading about a Wegner 16 footer that is a copy of one of the old Hawaiian olo’s. Just because it’s big doesn’t disqualify it from surfing.
Let’s all just take a deep breath and relax.
Doug
I agree Jarrod, totally disgusting.
Everyone have a careful read of this thread!!
This is pretty much how things were back then…
Roy posts something interesting about a unique board, and everyone basically jumps all over him and calls him an idiot, totally rude.
Same old sh*t happening again.
Let it drop, go build boards, if you can still remember how.
Get over it.
The Quantum Leap, backward. Very enlightening.
You’re being an a-hole. Let it go.
Yeah, its a personal attack. He deserves it. Ban me, I don’t give a crap. Thrailkill should get the same treatment roy was given. Talk about petty.
The only reason this old thread seems pretty tame is that Roy isn’t here to take it down that same old road. Back in those days I did what most did(with exception of a few): Stopped reading or commenting on Roy’s posts. The only problem was that while he was yet unbanned he was free to jump in on any thread and “high-jack” it. We’ve got good “Mods” (although we lost one recently). and it is after-all Mike’s site. There are other sites that Roy frequents. That is if you want to listen to(read) him or debate him.
Or ride the escalators at the mall.
Herb