Note the beads that seem to have halfway collapsed near the right corner of the exposed EPS. Strange…
Bottom skin still intact but separated from EPS
Bottom skins seems to be pretty much intact, the glass on the inside seems to be OK. Lots of cracks in the hotcoat on the outside. The owner really want to keep the bottom as is. So my plan is to get some resin in under the EPS in the bottom using a suringe with a drinking straw attachment to get in as deep as possible. Vaccum bag it against my rocker table with some adjustment with some weight as the rocker seems to be about a quarter of an inch off. Fill any gaps with EPS, pour foam, epoxy/carbosil mix, spackle, etc. Feather the edges of existing wood/glass, add a layer of glass, feather it in. Add wood, feather it in. Glass, hotcoat, sand…
The good news is its actually not to bad. Follow the Board ladys instructions on her site to fix a snap, this will have it as strong as it was. i have used her site a few times for repairs, last one was a snapped 9’2 takayama. your one if im corect it will have d-cell with wood veneer?
brace with wood and clamp back together and use foaming glue for eps crack, bevel grind around all snaped areas and vac on d-cell/corecell etc, depending on how bad the otherside is either inject resin or bevel grind along crease and vac on HD foam. fair it out after cure, vac on suitable coloured wood veneer and fair out. glass as usual, if it has glass on that wood, it may have poly resin seal coat.
this is a pretty quick run thru of what to do, you may need to fill certain spots to get flush etc. but i can tel you now it will be strong as hell. No offense to luis but you wont need a stringer, heat form the d-cell around the rail too.
it feels rewarding to give it back to the customer after things like this happen.
No offense at all, but I had and have 2 longboards (one of them almost exactly like this one);
one of them broked in the middle because it had no stringer at all… in little boards, ok with no stringer, but longboards… the board looses a little flex, but it does´nt happens things like these…
I don’t think there is a need for a stringer, nor do I know how to insert it without causing more damage. Also the EPS is so soft that you get heal dents and cracks that open up to the wood. This is much worse around the high density foam insert for the fin box so I think a stringer would give you alot of cracks around it which would lead to new problems…
There is no sandwich foam in this thing, only EPS, glass, wood and a 1mm thick polyester hotcoat. My plan is inspired by the boardlady and I will follow her instructions as close as possible. I will add glass cloth on the outside which is something this board does not have in the first place which will for sure screw up the flex of the board. I feel a bit guilty as I did some repairs on this board in the past where there was heel dents and cracks into the hotcoat and through to the wood, the wood was wet. I dried it out and glassed over to strengthen it. It appears that the break occured just ahead of this section most likely due to screwing up the flex pattern…
I was thinking that was the board you recently repaired and you’re spot-on in your assesment of what caused it to break. The stiffening of the repaired section created a focusing mechanism to shift loads to the ends of the repair. Further repair will only put these ‘‘stress risers’’ at a different spot on the structure. Might be time for a new board, IMO.
I’ve been thinking about that too. However I’ll give it ago. Thinking about running some lightweight glass (2-3oz) well past the broken area, overlapping the old repairs and all the way to the nose. It will add some weight, but given the circumstances it might prevent another break.
Why didn’t they put som glass over the wood in the first place?
That is icredibly odd. having this type of build up is completely wrong. what were they thinking. can you tell me how thick the veneer is and if it wraps the rails fully?
from the pic, it did seem oddly thin (skin). you would do well to vac on the veneer then sand the poly off and lam it with cloth. trouble is the bottom really needs to be done too. but at least it will have no hard spots/flex discontinuities any more on the deck.
There are some structural properties to the wood, the boards are pretty and they are light but IMO the TufLite boards are more durable.
On that break Haavard - finding a close match to the veneer will be your biggest problem. Some of the veneer specialists over here have chip samples of their various woods.
The guy from Leveneer was at the Cerritos College Timberflex demo. They probably have something that would match pretty close.
Thinking about running some lightweight glass (2-3oz) well past the broken area, overlapping the old repairs and all the way to the nose. It will add some weight, but given the circumstances it might prevent another break.
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haavard, I almost edited my post 5 minutes after I put it up this morning, to say just that. If you’re going to fix it and want it to have a chance of staying in one piece, that’s highly advisable.
I too was surprised to find no fiberglass on the exterior of a wood surftech longboard I am repairing. Also surprised to find the finish is poly gloss-coat resin despite the “repair with epoxy” lam.
The veneer composite does seem strong against pressure dents, but very brittle and fragile in regards to impact dings.
I just inherited this board, I am thinking of sanding & glassing a layer of 4 oz over everything.
The existing board probably makes for a good core. Since water-tight won’t be an issue you can consider other factors like resistance to abrasion or punctures to your equation. Maybe this is where nylon comes in.
I cut off the tail block then cut a slot & epoxied the wood leash loop in place. It was left over from a previous project, & I wanted my leash further back. Visually it matched pretty good.
No cloth over the veneer. Sprayed Poly finish. What I can’t remember is what is between the Veneer and foam for adhesion of the Veneer to foam. Been a long time since I have done repairs on one of those boards. And yes 4oz over the whole thing is a good way to go. I used to use 4oz on them to repair dings, shatters etc. hotcoat and sand. Then I would spray the repair with clear Poly. The Painters Choice stuff from Home Depot. Most of the time if it was dust free and clean I wouldn’t even need to wet-n-dry or rub out. Some of the early boards were not cut that cleanly at the rail. The Veneer would be uneven. They got better after the first few though. I had an early Velzy that Dale had actually sighed. Had some minor imperfections along the rail where the Veneer seam was… One of the owners of Surftech was suprised that I even noticed it. Lowel
The veneer seam at the rail isn’t flawless, but pretty darn good. Cosmetically & shape wise the board is very clean.
Several shatters in the finish, like a cell phone screen. I dinged it while working on it. That was the giveaway, it shattered like a porcelain teacup. Probably has gotten more brittle with age. I dont know if it’s gonna continue to shatter under my new layer of glass.
I think there is fiberglass & a thin composite under the veneer, which looks to be about 1/16" thick. Prob about 3/32" total. Definitely has that poly resin smell when you sand it.
It’s a 9’ 3" x 22" Yater spoon, not bad looking, but I cant see buying a surfboard with no fiberglass in the finish.
Where were these made? The logo sez Santa Barbara, I’m guessing Taiwan.
