The following thread inspired me to build a hand plane:
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1030051
I’m going to name mine The Brown Widow after this little gal that I found in my shop tonight. I got a set of Posca pens for christmas, so I’m going to attempt to reproduce this image on the finished board.
Here are some shots of the template that I made.
The template is 8 inches wide, and just under 15 inches long. Do these measurements sound about right? I haven’t used a hand plane before.
http://www.fcps.edu/islandcreekes/ecology/black_and_yellow_argiope.htm
Yellow Agriope
Described in a class as having a picture of Marge Simpson on its thorax.
I think the template is backwards…
Are you doing a hole or a strap?
[quote="$1"]
http://www.fcps.edu/islandcreekes/ecology/black_and_yellow_argiope.htm
Yellow Agriope
Described in a class as having a picture of Marge Simpson on its thorax.
[/quote]
I have seen those black and yellow spiders around our yard before. They are really cool looking spiders, but this is not one of them. It is a definitely a brown widow. I see see the brown and the black widows around my house frequently.
See the following page for pictures and a description.
http://www.sdnhm.org/fieldguide/inverts/latr-geo.html
[quote="$1"]
I think the template is backwards.....
Are you doing a hole or a strap?
[/quote]
Really? I know nothing about hand plane shapes. Please elaborate on what makes a good shape. I haven't cut any foam yet, so I am open to changing the template.
I was planning on doing a strap. The board will be shaped out of EPS that I scavenged from a Christmas package. I know that packaging EPS is too light for making a surfboard, but I figured that it would be ok for a hand plane. I actually have quite a bit of the stuff. If this one is successful, then I'll probably make some more. It seems like a good cheap way to practice new build methods -- like Timberflex for example.
I think it was John Mellor who originally suggested using leash plugs to anchor the straps. I was thinking about doing it that way.
I think you want the long part of the rail behind your hand, so that you can set a line, and because most of your weight will be behind your hand… so you mant max lift behind your hand.
I think your strap should be located about 1/3 the length from the nose.
I think that with that much curve behind your hand it will be more difficult to hold a consistent line.
I think that if you are making out of foam then leash plugs and a strap will be the best aproach.
Of course, I could be totally wrong, and you could be on to something…
Im no hand plane expert,,, but
reversing the out line sounds good
leash plugs will work good
Cool project...I read the title and thought you were working on one of these......
Looks awesome, you'll have loads of fun on it!
Ive made a few handplanes now and agree with obproud, I would reverse the template, but theres no harm in experimenting!
Thanks for the input. I'll reverse the template. I started thinking after seeing stingrays Mexican blanket board. I may have to do some experimenting with colored epoxy on this one.
Let's experiment.....I have broken boards and a chunck of EPS that will work great for Hand Planes...and scraps of veneer.....and....colors and scrap cloth.....Put on your Lab Coat....
We're looking forward to seeing you over at the Low Tech Lab....Bring resin......
Ray
I've tried handplanes with straps - one that I bought some years ago but moved away from them as soon as I started making and selling my own...the strap undoubtedly allows a cleaner waterflow on the board as it's not interupted by a hole or protruding fingers...but the hand hole in my experience is much, much easier to hold onto when you're getting nailed in a shoebreak/barrel...it's also also lot more comfortable to swim with when you're getting outback...as you're not in any way concerned with preventing it from slipping off your hand.
I also favor those made from ply rather than anything more bouyant as again they're so much easier to swim with...
Cheers
Rich
Here’s a few pic’s of the shaping process. I used a few different custom made sanding blocks to do the shaping. I hope to be able to glass it soon.
I made a little concave in the deck to support my arm.
Here is the bottom:
Not that I know much about handplanes, but here is my take. Those shapes look real nice. should work well. Be careful not to make them too thick, as one of the other posters said above, too much buoyancy makes it harder to swim, which is what you are going to be doing most of the time while out in the line-up. The thinner, without risking strength properties, the better. As for the handle vs hole debate. I am a big support of the handle. A good handle should be snug, but not too tight. If it is the right snugness, holding onto your plane while getting beaten, usually isn't an issue. Handles that are too wide will create a problem, so they need to fit the width of your hand reasonably well. If the handle is too tight, a powerful wave will literally rip your hand off. Plus, it won't allow you to switch hands quickly when needed. A good handle also creates a more natural swim stroke and planing posture, as we do neither with our hands closed and gripped, as you would do with a hole. With that being said, I know plenty of others, such as OBPROUD, that prefer the hole. So, I can't discount it too much, as I know he knows his handplanes well. It is all preference, experimentation, and most of all, HAVING FUN. As Mr. Hess says, "I've had plenty of bad days surfing, but, never a bad day handplaning."
This project has been sitting unfinished in a drawer for a while now. Previously, I had glassed it with two layers of 4 oz. top and bottom. It still felt a little squishy though -- probably because of the low density foam.
All the recent talk about cork has me interested to check it out. So... last night I vacuumed bagged some thin poster board cork to the deck of the board. My thinking was that the cork would provide a little extra impact protection, and would look good. This wouldn't be a sandwich construction. The cork would just a protective outer layer. So far I think it looks pretty good.
Here is what I did... I wiped the deck with some KK epoxy, placed the precut cork sheet on top of the board, and shoved it into the bag. Under vacuum (about 20" Hg), the cork did a pretty good job of conforming to the curves of the deck, and no epoxy bled through to the surface. It was hard to cut out the sheet to exactly conform to the fish tail, and I ended up with some gaps. I also had a little buckle in the nose. I'm going to have to add some additional pieces to cover up those spots.
I'm still debating whether I should vacuum another sheet of cork to the bottom. That would give it a nice 100% cork covering like a wine cork. A hot pen for pyrography might be interesting for doing pin lines and artwork.
Pictures will be coming soon…
...or maybe a long time (hopefully soon).
Ok... I have some pictures to share.
Here is is getting glassed a while back at Stingray's Low Tech Lab.
Here is what it looked like earlier tonight. Notice that the edges didn't fully adhere.
I just mixed up a little more epoxy, wiped it on the edges, taped everything up, and threw it back in the bag.
I’ve been making and riding handplanes for a few years, they are awesome fun. I keep giving mine away though, so lately I’ve just been picking up scrap pieces of paulownia, cutting them into a square-ish shape, bevelling the nose, and screwing a strap on. I can make one in less than half an hour, and ride them the same day! These seem to work as well as any handplane I’ve ever ridden, and I can give them away without sending myself broke!
I realize that vacuum bagging a hand plane is a bit of overkill. This is more about experimentation with techniques and materials than anything else.
Here are some more pictures after the second bagging run.
Small scale prototype is very common in everything from race cars to chemical plants.
Keep going Swied. I suprised how far you got the cork to wrap the rails.