I have the opportunity to pick up a nice 10ft never ridden log for an even nicer price from a very well established co but as always, there’s a catch, there’s some quality control issues.
Instead of the 3 1/4 its marked 2 1/4(which I couldn’t really care about) but there’s a lot of pin marks along the 3 stringers, now i haven’t got up to see the board in the flesh yet but Iv heard a lot of conflicting reports about (i) how bad they are (ii) how serious they are and (iii) what they came from.
According to the manufacture they shouldn’t take on water but a friend who does a lot of ding repair work who’s seen it thinks it will.
The manufactures excuse for it happening was that there was a resin tint done over the red wood stringers and the stringers just left out air as they were being glassed.
Personally I was thinking if i did take it that i would just tape off the 3 stringers, sand them, clean out the pin holes and run some resin over it again and hope for the best but Im a little worried that if the bubbles are there to begin with could it cause delam issues in the long wrong.
Hopefully you’ll be able to get some idea from the pic.
Its a really easy fix. You can use gloss resin, with a needle fill them from one side allowing the resin to flow into the hole on one side letting air out on the other side. So you fill it from the bottom to the top. Then sand and polish to desired finish. Hope that helps. (definately fix them! if you get the board.)
The manufacturer of the board is right about the redwood stringers blowing air. Most likely the stringers actually are cedar. That’s pretty much what all blank manufacturers are using these days as a cost effective dark wood substitute for redwood. The tannins (sometimes described as oils) in the wood can cause the glass job to crystalize over the wood. Also, the tannins in wood don’t create that good of bond with the urethane glue that’s commonly used to adhere the wood and the foam together. That poor bond is the source of the air blowing though the glass job. Even though it’s a real pain to fix, the holes should be sealed or water will eventually get in. If the blank manufacturer uses a polyester resin based glue, the bond is much better and that keeps the blow holes from happening to a minimum. Ideally the wood should be kiln dried thoroughly to eliminate the tannins from it. A lot of the time that’s not what’s used and then you got problems when you glass the board.
Thanks for the help people (at the moment, i like Austins reply the most:) )
I had give up on the idea completly after reading the responses i got here and jamboards but when i got a call off the ower of the shop who supplyed it this morning, i may have struck some bit of a deal, its now in or around half price and I have the back up that if it does delam i can get a refund off him so…
Waiting til i get up to see it myself before I make up my mind
To put a finer point on it…haha…i use needle/syringes to fill these kind of air pockets after lam layer before hotcoat. Especially right aound the lip of futures boxes which i can never seem to glass over without air bubbles. Needle gauges of 21 or thicker allow regular lam resin to pass through more easily and needle lengths of 1/2" or less don’t bend when you prick through the glass into the pocket. Poking an additional hole to let the air out helps. Kick the resin slow so you can more around the board filling all (hopefully not too many) the air pockets.
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hey high-pockets,
Its a really easy fix. You can use gloss resin, with a needle fill them from one side allowing the resin to flow into the hole on one side letting air out on the other side. So you fill it from the bottom to the top. Then sand and polish to desired finish. Hope that helps. (definately fix them! if you get the board.)
