buckled board, how would you fix this?

General Discussion
1

Hi Everyone,

 

A friend of mine buckeled his Stretch… And this is how I was going to fix it… Do you guys agree with my strategy? 

 

I am planning on using a razor blade, or a dremmel tool to cut along the lines drawn on the board. I will then remove the glass in that area. On the EPS foam, I am going to fill the cracks and dings with a mix of Q-Cell and Epoxy Resin. Then Re-glass with a 6x4 cloth method, then hotcoat, and sand. On the rails, will it be ok to remove the glass in the manner I have drawn? 

 

Im sure there are better methods out there… Please let me know if there are!

 

Thanks,

 

Swanny

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2

Don't know if I'd be fixing that one.  Probably buy or build a new board.

You definitely need to glass farther than what you have outlined on the rail.  Also I would avoid squared off cuts when removing the glass.  Be sure to radius those corners.

3

your plan of attack is ok but you only need to cut out the areas where the board is creased or where fiberglass is sticking up, you dont need to cut out that hole area that you drew out

and be sure to have nice and wide laps when laminating

good luck

4

I wouldnt fix that. main reason is unless you are an expert repairman you are not going to have mych success getting it to feel the way it did before. with your adding filling blending and sanding you are going to loose some of the nuances specific to that board. you may get it looking pretty but it will inevetibly not ride the same.

5

As sdrepairman pointed out I wouldn’t take away any more glass than needed. Try just cutting at the top of the creases (where the crease meets the normal plane of the glass) then keep looking and only remove glass that’s not stuck to the foam properly.

Then you can fill and fair (sand) out your glass giving yourself plenty of overlap for the new glass, at least 4-6 inchs and wrap the rails at least the same.

Someone else may have a better idea on glass schedule but 2 layers of 4oz (one larger then the other to blend into your fairing) would do the trick, particularly if it was glassed light to start with.

As ResinDrums pointed out though it will never be the same but may well be good enough as a spare board. The decision to fix it or not then comes down to cost, just be sure to warn the owner of the potential change in performance :slight_smile:

6

[quote="$1"]

your plan of attack is ok but you only need to cut out the areas where the board is creased or where fiberglass is sticking up, you dont need to cut out that hole area that you drew out

and be sure to have nice and wide laps when laminating

good luck

[/quote]

I agree 100% with sdrepairman. And why haven't you stripped all the wax from the deck? There's a good chance the deck is damaged too. I did a thread on this subject but you have to like fast cars........Ray

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/bottom-feeders-bad-hair-buckeled-boards-and-bad-ass-cars

fun stuff

7

the manner which you have drawn should be the area preped for glass reinforcement.

as said by my esteemed colleagues only remove damaged original glass

to get to water damaged foam to replace or fill.

the gift of ding repair well done is a gift to the board owner as well as the board repairer.

conversely a poor repair job is a blight all around.

…ambrose…

the board will break again if used abusively.

accept that going in,and there will be no disapointments .

8

p.s. yes inspect the deck

and wrap the rails all the way round

to enhance the repair structural strength.

…ambrose…

9

Thanks for the advice everyone. I will have to let my buddy know the board will never be the same… Beginning the process I was pretty sure that the board would have some weird flex patterns to it. I will be sure to remove the wax and make sure there isn’t anything I missed. 

 

Sometimes I feel like I work on surfboards just to work on surfboards… Even if it is a lost cause… 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Eric