I have a 7’0" that has a slight crease/buckle on the top of my board. It’s barely visible but does extend from rail to rail (middle section of board). It is delaminating (slightly) on both sides of the stringer but has no visible damage to the stringer or foam. It’s a relatively new board and I have ridden it once since I noticed the crease. Question: Cutting out the loose glass seems like overkill, should I do it anyways? I want to maintain the overall integrity and strength of the board and will be doing the repair myself. I am not a master at ding repair but have some experience and am not afraid to "get after it ". Any help greatly appreciated.

The last buckled board I repaired I cut out all the cracked and delaminated glass. Then I put down lam resin and qcell to smooth out the foam and then I reglassed the area. I came out real clean and the guy was stoked. Good luck!

As Louis suggests you need to remove the delaminated glass. There is no piont in glassing over the top of it.Grind it off or cut it out with a sharp knife and re glass the area.The crease needs to be strenghtened as it is now a weak point in the board especialy at the rails.Alot of these sorts of problems (snaps / creases)start at the rails where there is a small ding or a weak point in the glass job. David.

Remove the wax, sand extended area around buckle, with 16 penny nail poke just enough holes needed to fill delam with saringe, let dry then one layer of 6oz cloth extending the repair area, sand 100grit then 320 wet and your good to go ! www.edgefins.kauaityle.com Happy Hollowdays !

Interesting, to this engineer, anyway, that when boards break the first step is delamination at the compression side of the board which destroys one side of the “beam” structure of the board, followed by tension failure at the other side and WALLAH two boards. A buckled board is a red c**t hair from completely breaking in half. I fully disagree with edgefins comment about simply sticking some resin in the delam. This is a very temporary measure and the board is likely to snap on the next significant stress. Here’s why: once the glass has creased, it has (1) lost adhesion to the underlying foam and formed a “hinge” with no compression and very little tension strength, and (2) you aren’t addressing the probable stringer damage below. I say strip the glass at least three inches on either side of the buckle, feather the glass another three inches each side, repair the foam with Qcell as necessary, and put two or three layers of six ounce, hotcoat, sand, gloss. Yes it’ll be heavier than it was. But it’s your only hope of recreating the original structural condition. Of course, if this is a shop board, then it’s a throwaway, why bother? Personally I have given up on fixing broken boards. Mine seldom break, but I’ve lost four since I started making my own in 1969, and I’ve ridden some fairly energetic waves all over Hawaii. Shop-made throwaways just won’t last in the first place. Fixing major damage is a waste of time. I had to learn this the hard way when a kid I was helping (and he was absolute death on boards) brought a second hand snapped stick to my house. Supposedly it was something Joe Pro had ridden in this or that contest, and Nick had gotten it second hand, snapped it and wanted me to fix it. He’d pay (he said) whatever I wanted (about 50 bucks). I looked at it and found that although it had no other major dings, the deck was severely indented. I knew it would only last a few months even if I fixed the snap perfectly. I knew it would be heavier and yet weaker. I do my work partly out of the emotional positive I get from the creative process, so I invest a little of my own mind and heart in the work. I could see this board was on it’s way out, so I told him I wouldn’t do the work for any price. He was about 18 and had a hard time understanding why money didn’t solve his problem. He left the pieces with me “in case I got to it” and a year later I put the bits in his parents garage. Bet they’re still there, covered in dust.

I’m in agreement with Charlie - that’s the way I’ve done it in the past with great success. One thing - use several layers of cloth in wider bands as you go, that way you don’t get a sharp transition from the original strength and stiffness of the board to the new and beefed up area, which is a great place for the next buckle-break to start. Wrap the new cloth well around the rails as well. hope that’s of use doc