I’m having several problems in the final steps of building my 1st pigmented board. When I was laminating the bottom, It wwas a mess in the cutlap,because the resin started to dry before I was waiting, I was able to finish the lamination, but I had several highs and lows in the rails / cutlap area . I thought it was all cool, but now that I gave the hotcoat and sand it, I got several burn throughs. In the attached photos I show you what happened.
What I’m thinking of doing is in the cutlap zone, at the bottom, to make a new strip/panel in navy blue, which is the area that is worse. To make this strip in navy blue, I thought to add laminating resin + navy blue pigment + catalyst + wax in styrene, this to be able to sanding a little, before the gloss coat.
Even so I still have some questions, in your opinion what can I do to cover the areas of burn through?
Is it a good idea to make a gloss coat and polish? Or can I make a hotcoat (dense) and then sanding well and polishing (because I dont have much resin left)?
*** before seeing the photos, I advice that the sanding process is a total mess, and to be prepared**
Hi- Depending on what type of fiber you are using it can be hidden perfectly by the gloss coat.Quality A fiber should be able to hide it no problem.If its quality B chinese fiber it a gloss coat will not hide and you will see the fiber still. Be smart and wet out a spot of the weave that will tell you everything. Cheers Petey
I forgot also if the test work you are ready to gloss.If its still a bit bumpy mix styrene with the gloss resin and paint a ring around the lap,than shortly after gel shoot the whole bottom with gloss resin. That ring around the lap helps you if you are not a good sander…cheers Petey
@dsd i followed your tip, and mix some resin whit my additives for gloss coat, and did a test, it works! Cant see the weave now, its covered. Dont have to mix pigment whit that. Thanks
Hello @McDing, I placed the boxes before the lamination, but then after laminating I placed the patches, thats why I can see the weave in those spots.
I have a little problem in that area, because the boxes are a little lower than the rest of the bottom, maybe when I’ll sand the gloss coat, I’ll have to sand a bit deep there, to reach the holes in the boxes.
I don’t want to sound picky but styrene and surfacing agent are not quite the same. Monomer styrene is what you would use in this case. Surfacing agent is wax diluted in styrene.
Longboard box’s of course are almost always done after glass and hotcoat(fill coat). Exceptions would be Futures new “Strong Box” and sometimes the capped O’Fishl box. But it is sometimes advantageous to rout Futures and FCS boxes after the lamination. In a case like your own after glass would work well. You could rout the holes after the lamination or after you have sanded the hotcoat. Set the boxes and then cover with a clear layer or two of cloth. That way you don’t have to worry about cutting around the box or covering the box with the pigmented cloth. It’s cleaner. Easier to do and there is no possibility of sanding the pigment away around the boxes and attempting a touch up. I know glassers that cover the boxes with the pigmented cloth and make it look good, but it is more work and something extra to worry about. Lowel
