Good call on the movie dennis, me austin and my cousin went and checked it out tonight and it was good, now we know who is to blame for the super haole hatred that can be had out here haha…
BUSTIN’ DOWN THE DOOR - THE HAWAIIAN VERSION
THE SECOND CHAPTER
That would complete the history of the era that shaped the current surfing world.
Bustin’ down the door did just that! Opened up and exploded surfing!
Here are some of my recollections from the 75-76 North shore era. I attended BYU-Hawaii at the time so I could be closer to the country and surf more often. I was lucky enough to have a mentor named Moroni Medeiros (Uncle Ron), who took me under his wing and allowed me to work with him and his sons and staff in the Duke Kanahamoku Surf Classic Contest. (Uncle Ron is one of the greatest men I have ever known. I should write a book about him.) This contest was not a big money contest but it was the most prestigious at the time. To win the Duke was like winning the world title. The trophy was made by the same people who made the Oscars.
The ABC network covered the contest and it was one of it most popular segments on the “Wide World of Sports.” ABC housed the production crew and the contest staff at the Kualima Hotel. I enjoyed crashing out the bungalows there. I worked with Uncle Ron’s sons Perry and Jay to basically do “go-for” work. We would pick up lunches at the Kualima that was made by a young and upcoming chief name Sam Choy. While waiting for the lunches, Sam would feed us gourmet food. It was a fun time.
I remember on year that Ian and Rabbit (especially Ian) was making a scene at the pre contest meeting about how small the prize money was. Most of the surfers there were just trilled to be invited to the Duke contest. Ian and Rabbit came from a totally different mind set for the time. I still remember that there were several great alternate surfers that never had a chance to surf in that contest. I recall speaking to Tom Stone that was waiting patiently in his VW bug for his chance to surf in the contest. He told me, “I can win this thing if they gave me a chance”. I surfed with him and he probably could have done very well.
There was Mike Purpose who surf the contest with his Mickey Mouse board. He was that first surfer I saw that charged big Sunset with a leash. That was unheard of in those days. I still recall the day Mike was attempting to pick my then girlfriend. He came up to her and said, “Don’t you know me, I am Mike Purpose?” She said, “No, am I supposed to. And by the way, that big local boy is my boyfriend.” Mike quickly went after another target.
Good or bad, it was a great time to be on the North Shore. After the mid seventies, the Country began loosing its country charm. Contest time became a circus and a difficult time for the everyday local surfers. There were too many international surfers that surfed only for fame and money. True soul surfing began to become rare. We started to avoid the North Shore when the circus was in town. Luckily, The North Shore has some epic clean waves during the spring and sometimes into the summer time. That is when you’ll find me there.
Aloha,
D
Personally I’m glad I left Hawaii for the mainland in 1974 and didn’t return for good till 1990.
I didn’t have to witness the destruction of all that was special at that time…
My memories of it all from the late 60’s up through then are still intact and not spoiled of what happened later.
Even in 1990 I could paddle out to Ali’i or Courts in the dark before sunrise and get a couple hours with just a couple guys.
Even that’s all gone now too…
Wonder what would’ve happened if there was never any money to be made from any of it.
Would it have ended up different?
It’s funny, cause like a disease this thing just keeps pushing itself into more and more virgin areas like Hawaii was some what like back in the 30’s-40’s-50’s in regards to surfing and its corrupting those areas even faster. South America, the Solomans, New Guinea, Indo, Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, Marquesas, Palau, they are all developing into hyperdrive surf resorts even before the culture of surfing can even be established, all the native populations know about surfing is the commercial side of servicing the wealthy western visitor. Must be some type of Anglo Saxon mantra, this need throughout time to expand, conquer and convert.
It’s funny to see the door getting busted down the other way now with the Sino-Chinese expansion/intrusion into the economic lineup havens these early adventurer/squatters setup for themselves over the past half a century. The reaction of all of them to the new asian economic versions of the Bronzed Aussies busting down the door and taking over is pretty much was how most locals felt when it was happening here and elsewhere I’m sure.
All in all it’s pretty hilarious and somewhat sad that the circle is closing full circle in on itself.
I went to go see the movie at the San Diego premier on Sunday July 25th. Shaun, PT and MR were there to introduce the film, take questions, and sign autographs. It was a fun evening, and for a moment transported me back to the late 70’s when I began surfing and routinely reading the mags. I told the three after the movie, the part addressing Hawaiian history and culture, is what pushed the film beyond being just a howling good surfing flick. Shaun basically said he and the others were were insensitive at the time, and that they were immature.
There will always be those who disagree with a position put forward, but my question is why didn’t you make a movie about surfing? Its pointless to expect others to portray a story through someone elses eyes. This is a fundamental lesson observed thoughout history. Surfing is a great sport invented by Hawaiians and is a gift to humanity. This is no different than medicine, mathmatics, philosophy. Can you imagine how far humanity would be if Pasteur or Newton, or Plato decided their inventions should be used only under specific situations. There would be no new antibiotics, democracies, or space exploration that grew from the original inventions.
I just find it difficult to buy the argument “commodization of surfing has ruined the sport”. An argument could also be made information is now more accessible, and people can get better equipment which was previously in the hands of the few, and are able to surf more and better waves. Sure waves are a little more crowded now, but I remember even back then thinking how silly people acted at protecting their break. Can you imagine if everytime you wanted to travel to a new place to experience surfing, someone was always telling you to get lost. It turns into a vicious cycle.
Quote:
There will always be those who disagree with a position put forward, but my question is why didn’t you make a movie about surfing? Its pointless to expect others to portray a story through someone elses eyes.
I just find it difficult to buy the argument “commodization of surfing has ruined the sport”. An argument could also be made information is now more accessible, and people can get better equipment which was previously in the hands of the few, and are able to surf more and better waves. Sure waves are a little more crowded now, but I remember even back then thinking how silly people acted at protecting their break. Can you imagine if everytime you wanted to travel to a new place to experience surfing, someone was always telling you to get lost. It turns into a vicious cycle.
Something your missing is that the people involved in making all this and some of the charaters are not available for just anyone to make a surf movie. Try it sometime. Most of these guys…with the exeption of M.R. who is a super gentleman…are owned or managed by big surf companies. This is advertising for them and a way to re introduce of further fuel the retro fad. Not only that making a movie right…is going to cost big bucks and as soon as some of the industry guys get wind of what your doing…their guys start getting hard to interview unless they get something out of the deal. It’s not that way in every case. I got a nice interview from M.R. right in the lost booth one time…but it’s enough that way to make it difficult for some average guy to make a surf movie.
I love wathing the stuff and going back…I love well made movies whoever makes them…but don’t think your going to get anything but one version. Not that it’s possible to be open minded on something like this. Folks tend to have selective memories. However…the name itself is a push and a prod. It’s an in your face way of saying…we did it…our own way and we pushed your door in.
What some of the Hawaiians see of those years are likely much different views. Dane Kealoha was pretty much run off the tour for not caving into to demands put on him by the new …governing body of pro surfing. If he didn’t win a world title he certainly would have spoiled one for someone else as he was one of the best surfers of that time and in his prime. At that time much of the tour was decided in Hawaii.
I not sure there was a bustin down the door at all in any way other than someone who decided to write an article or book and call it that. From my memory…this was all a steady transition that came to a head when the public finally got to see some of the characters they had been reading about surf against each other on a tour. No doubt the Aussies made a big push forward in aggressive surfing…but that was nothing new either because that really started with Nat and company and the shortboard revolution.
I think more than anything…the busting down the door was actually the magazines coming into their own and perfecting the hype that would later shape the industry. Go back and look at some of those early eighties magazines…attempts were made to cash in on anything associated with surfing. The stuff was awful…it pretty much still is…but kiddies love awful. I miss the enfatution young surfers used to have with being out there…instead of the ridiculous infatuation with sponsorship…whether it be shop sponsorship or pro.
Needless to say…I disagree with kitasan about commodization of the sport. I have no issue with folks getting rich by producing good products or using clever marketing. The deceit, corporate bullying and need to monopolize surfing is where I have an issue. Some of these companies want to literally own the sport. I am sure many would …if they could…buy up the surf breaks and charge admission to surf them. In fact…they do at some of the better ones that are not easy to get to and have limited access.
I can’t really see much good thats come out of the so called commodization.
This is a pretty good thread. I appreciated the thoughtful comments. That alone is a mark that the flick is a good one. The flick told a good story, it was visually rich, attempted to show both sides of a conflict but the main thing is that it got us to think and reflect about that period in time.
The neat part is that we all have surfing. That alone is a great common ground. Common ground is the basic element of resolution or at least a basis for mutual respect. Our little get together on Sunday in Waikiki clearly demonstrated this. There were older guys like me, Keith, Bernie and Harry enjoying the company of younger guys. Not all of us were from Hawaii. Keith and Rhino, Lorenzo was from San Diego, Bob and his cousin are from Maui by way of Florida. We didn’t look at each other as haole or Hawaiian but as surfers. The point again is that we enjoyed each others company because of surfing (board building too) which is our grounds for mutual respect. Sprinkle that with a little aloha and it made for a wonderful event.
Unlike other surf movies that just entertained, this movie made us think and because of this, it was successful.
Aloha,
D
Quote:
This is a pretty good thread. I appreciated the thoughtful comments. That alone is a mark that the flick is a good one. The flick told a good story, it was visually rich, attempted to show both sides of a conflict but the main thing is that it got us to think and reflect about that period in time.
The neat part is that we all have surfing. That alone is a great common ground. Common ground is the basic element of resolution or at least a basis for mutual respect. Our little get together on Sunday in Waikiki clearly demonstrated this. There were older guys like me, Keith, Bernie and Harry enjoying the company of younger guys. Not all of us were from Hawaii. Keith and Rhino, Lorenzo was from San Diego, Bob and his cousin are from Maui by way of Florida. We didn’t look at each other as haole or Hawaiian but as surfers. The point again is that we enjoyed each others company because of surfing (board building too) which is our grounds for mutual respect. Sprinkle that with a little aloha and it made for a wonderful event.
Unlike other surf movies that just entertained, this movie made us think and because of this, it was successful.
Aloha,
D
Good one. No doubt that was a special time in both performance surfing and board design. In the end…it’s about being out there.
E.A.
gee, that is a stunning surf shot.
Who’s that E-pac?
Steve
The comoditization of surfing and specifically the movie introduced me to the concept of “Aloha”. I am not quite sure I understand the literal transaltion as I’ve never been to Hawaii. My experience (through surfing) would lead me to believe it means to rise above and treasure the moment. What I mean specifically is to see life in a much larger context.
I saw an interview of Dane recently. Despite being shafted for surfing/winning the non-sanctioned Hawaiian events in 83, while the ASP and ISP (now defunct) struggled for power, I have to give Dane major props for thinking independently, and doing what he felt was necessary. Does he regret it. No way. Oddly, in the interview, Dane spoke about the the power of surfing to fundamentally change people.
Quote:
The comoditization of surfing and specifically the movie introduced me to the concept of “Aloha”. I am not quite sure I understand the literal transaltion as I’ve never been to Hawaii. My experience (through surfing) would lead me to believe it means to rise above and treasure the moment. What I mean specifically is to see life in a much larger context.
I saw an interview of Dane recently. Despite being shafted for surfing/winning the non-sanctioned Hawaiian events in 83, while the ASP and ISP (now defunct) struggled for power, I have to give Dane major props for thinking independently, and doing what he felt was necessary. Does he regret it. No way. Oddly, in the interview, Dane spoke about the the power of surfing to fundamentally change people.
I was born on maui and moved away when I was younger but I have been fortunete enough to return every summer as my dad never moved and neither did alot of my family when we moved to florida. I have not one ounce of hawaiian blood but the best way I could describe aloha to you is being respectful and righteous to the land and one another. When you lack that respect for the people or the place dont be surprised to get it thrown back in your face and some. One way to tell is the lack of trash you’ll see on the side of the road etc when driving or just anywhere on the island… people have more respect here for the land than in the mainland (for the most part there are definetly exceptions), or other exotic/island places… i’ve been all over the carribean etc and people just dont seem as proud of their home. This movie really helps to lay out how a lack of respect after someone shares with you can get thrown back at you real quick…
I’m pretty sure I heard once that the root of the word comes from “the presence of breath” or something along those lines… and the term “haole” being the exact opposite, breathless, your a ghost… you come and your gone.
It is interesting how they keep re hashing and packaging the crew of white boys from the that era, alot happened to surfing and i dont think it was necessarily intentional. But it definitely seemed to happen. It was the end of fun surfing, you know goofing around hanging on the beach, and the start of winning surfing, and surfing for how it looked to the observer or judge as the sole criteria of good surfing. It was were the beautiful stylish hawaiian surfing was pushed aside and the only thing that mattered was maneuvers and more maneuvers whether the wave called for it or not. It was so much easier to sell this to the general public than trying to explain sensation and feel or style for that matter. That is part of what we took from the hawaiians again through the selling of this new generation we discredited the island style of surfing so the white guys were the winners, and the judging system has been on there side ever since, make it look hard and difficult and strain and flex and push and you will be rewarded.
I was a young australian teenager at the time and as much as i enjoyed watching these guys surf in the movies, my friends and i could never get enough of Bertleman and co, they were looser more colourful with funky cool styles. They seemed to to be having a really good time and not just straining and trying so damn hard all the time, as opposed to make it look easy, i think they had way more world wide influence than is given credit to them. The media made them out to be a side show doing there fancy tricky surfing like buttons and liddel were doing that was not viewed as serious surfing, because that was re entry and cutback repetively all the way to the beach, along with consistency will kill a loose talented spontanious surfer every time.
The other thing that was happening around the same time that has had a very long lasting effect on surfing and the media tends to over look is the discovery and exploration of indonesia, the guys who were going over there were looking for waves and adventure and getting plenty of both. They didnt go for fame and fortune but they surfed more more perfect waves than those the guys on the fledging world tour.
I agree with what Solo says about Cheyne he was the guy who came along and sparked fear into all of those guys and each one tried to tear him down, easily the most individualistic person to successfully compete on the tour.
Quote:
Great shot. Thats what surfing is all about.
Quote:
I agree with what Solo says about Cheyne he was the guy who came along and sparked fear into all of those guys and each one tried to tear him down, easily the most individualistic person to successfully compete on the tour.
And I don’t think Cheyne ever had issues with Hawaiians in Hawaii. He is well liked and respected where he goes in surfing. I have never heard a negative thing come out of Cheyne’s mouth about anyone or anything. The guy just loves surfing and life.
On Dane: Dane got a raw deal and he has been well taken care of by his old sponsors from what I hear…so I doubt he has regrets…but I read an interview where he expressed his frustration. The ISP/ASP messed up the career of one of the sports greats with stupid rules. Telling a Hawaiian they can’t surf in Hawaiian contest was B.S. It’s one of the problems of sanctioning. It’s the same with Amateur surfing…each of these institutions grabbing for their share and even attempting to enforce their self created rights legally.
Again…this movies has obviously brought back some fond memories and also some old issues that have never really gone away.
I like to remember the surfing and the waves…but there is no way the bustin down the door crew were outsurfing some of the Hawaiians at that time ( I still think Dane was one of fastest I have ever seen surf and as good on a twin as M.R. in big surf). They just got the press. There was unreal surfing going on everywhere during that experimental time…new board designs…new moves…old style …new style…hyrbird styles. There was a Florida crew during that time that would go over and surf Hawaii really well also.
Between those years and 82 we saw the birth of the under the lip snap…the floater…multi fins ripping from old single fin cruising…new single fin ripping on new planshapes to three fin dominance on new single fin planshapes…four fins…the birth of the surf industry…and the rise of magazine coverage of the sport and pro surfing. It was good, it was bad and it was everything in between…but boring it was not.
Still…I miss the surfing when it didn’t have competition. Surf trips and talking about each others cutbacks on the way back home. No fuel channel to copy surfer’s styles from etc.