Actually, it’s not that bad, but I want to get the attention of the wise. I don’t know why but i think it’s happened on every board I’ve made this year (six) and can’t ever remember it happening before. the fill coat just seems to separate, in a sense, so I’m left with like a valley in the fill coat. it only happens on the deck and runs lengthways, not sideways. i’ve taken a couple of shots of some on two boards I fill coated yesterday. Hopefully, you will be able to see them. I know I can just fill them in but I want to avoid it if I can. thanks for any advice.
PS i cross stroke and then do a light tail to nose run when I do the fill coat.
alot of times the temp and the weather can change your results, i have a local shaper here that has recently move locations and had no problem with his hot coats until he moved to his new location, go figure- Best to go ahead and put a decent layer of hot coat resin on the board then do just like you have been doing. cross brush to remove any excess resin and then walk it out with the brush barely touching the board. Is your hoat coat kicking to fast, or did you possibly try to touch up the board when it started to kick that might be a possibility?-josh
Hey what your doing is putting too much hotcoat on the ol board, what your experiencing is SLABBING. Thats gravity taking over before the cat kicks. Also if you have any air moving around in the room that will cause it too, but usually air causes the BRAIN SLAB EFFECT. Another cause is not enough catalyst in the resin. The old resin is sitting way too long on the board, and blamo gravity takes over and SLAB EFFECT. I bet those canyons are sticky too…right. You don’t get them on the bottom because the bottom has no deck dome…it’s flat, so the resin can pool. But I bet you loose some concave.
I’m guessing that you don’t have the SLABBING EFFECT when it a nice warm Summer day, just during the cold or damp days??
Next time, use the same amount of resin, and kick it off a bit hotter, but when you walk the hotcoat out, pull resin off the board into you brush, and into the cup. Work fast. With a hotcoat all you doing is filling the cloth and the little pinholes etc. don’t use it as a putty to fill big voids. If you got problem areas you can spot fill those, like the nose and tail. If it’s cold your going to have to use more kick. I like my hotcoats to kick as i’m cleaning my brush and stuff. You should be able to lay down the hotcoat in 3-5 mins get it smooth and thin (flat)…then walk away, it will self level in the next 3-5 mins if you didn’t lay it on too thick. If you layed it on too thick, it will look perfect when you walked away, but when you walk back SLAB EFFECT.
Anyhow those canyons should sand out without any problem, you want to sand off most of the hoatcoat anyways…most guys don’t sand nearly enough anyways. the hotcoat is where all the weight is, and there is no strength in a hotcoat. Chew off that hot coat!!
Thanks for the imput Josh and Jay. Actually, this was a very warm night when i did this, no wind movement through my garage and it kicked really quick, about the same time as you suggested Jay. Maybe i did leave too much resin on there, that makes sense to me. However, as I said in the post, it’s a phenomenom peculiar to this year’s glassing process for me and I know I’m using the same amount of resin as before.
I had the same problem , so now I put the hot coat (filler) on long ways then brush sideways to remove exess then lay off longways and no more slabbing.
