I have a 190, 676 and no type 100, and all have the channel guide on the front shoe (see photo). When did Skil stop installing these? Just curious.
Tim
I have seen more than a few Skils, but have never seen a so called “channel guide” as in your picture. My guess is that someone has made a very well done repair on your front shoe… I have seen a few done similarly using an add-on piece. Have also seen a few welded repairs on front shoes. It looks as though the front shoe was ground flat and then the piece was added. There is a lot that I don’t know about a lot of things. Just a guess based on what I do know. I bet if you took the screws out and removed the piece for an inspection, 2+2 would equal 4.
don’t think this shoe was repaired. It was suggested by Shaper Supply that these guides were used on older units.
I have had 4 planers with this guide. 190, 676 and 2 100s. I even have a spare guide from a batch of Skil parts I purchased.
I had a machine shop install the guides on the new shoe I just purchased. Smooth operation.
Over the weekend I was changing the bearings on an old no-type Skil and it had the channel guide in your picture. You can see the holes for the screws are drilled all the way through the side of the front shoe.
My old 100 has the two holes in the shoe with the rusted ends of machine screws like the picture above. I have not had it apart to see what the rest looks like.
What “Type” is your Skil?
I want to say Type 2 or type - , mid range A973### serial number, no type on badge, 5.5A
Looks like this was not an aftermarket modification. Thanks to all for checking their planers. Maybe Gene C. will add some insight.
I own two 7.5’s and a 5.3 currently. No screws or add on at the front shoe. Since 2015 and now I have bought and R’nR’ed several (at least 10) and resold them. None of them including the three I currently own have had such a guide. Front shoe was channeled . All of mine have had the depth index removed so they slide effortlessly . Those channels are the weakest part of a Skil 100. But then again; You’re not supposed to drop any power tool. Most especially a Skil 100. $#!t happens though. A few months back one of my plastic Futures router sleeves fell off the shelf and broke the flange. I need to check in with the “guru” and see how he’s been doing. I’ll ask him what he knows about channel guides.
I took a quick look on fleabay at photos of Skils. The no types had the holes for channel guide. The 4s and 7.5s bid not. There was a polished Type 3 that looked like it had screw holes.
These were used on early Skil’s to keep the shoe tight, not a guide. Really a flat spring that puts side pressure on the shoe. They discontinued using them since it adds cost and they could manage shoe tightness as both the body and shoe slots are machined after casting. I remove all of these, impossible to get smooth lever action if left in.
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The replacement front shoes were too sloppy without the channel guide. The operation is plenty smooth for me.
Who did you get your replacement shoe from? I have two that I got from Pete and they’re great. Nice and smooth. Pete hasn’t made any in a few years. So I am assuming they may be some of the recent ones I saw for sale here on Sways. Sounds like poor machine shop work.
Don’t know about the fit of those replacement shoes, but I’m glad that the tension spring worked for you. On the shoes I did, the tracks were made intentionally tight so they could be filed to fit for each body. In all of the original Skil’s I’ve done, the stock shoe always has to be filed to get the proper sliding fit and the spring had to be removed. This takes the longest time of any of the restorations tasks; could be 10 mins or 2 hrs to get the fit right. I don’t have any of the shoes left, very expensive and tedious to machine. I do have a few originals that are repaired without welds or visible changes and are very strong. May try and have some 3D printed soon.
I prefer to have a little resistance in the shoe. I even keep a bit of clicker contact. My modest shaping skills dictate slow planer movements. Shoe operation is still smooth, just requires some effort.
Concerning my original shoes, both had some old repairs that had failed. Is there a way to repair? Will probably have to add some material and maybe machine a new track.
I was very impressed with the overall quality of replacement shoe. Milled from block of aluminum with a true and polished contact surface. My planers are 60-70 years old, so I hate blame the fit completely on the replacement shoes.
See! I just learned something. Did not know you had to do a bit of filing on the channels. Well I love my two and they work great. Off course I like the adjustment to be loose. I don’t like resistance. To each his own though. I heard that Roger Hinds has always left the clicker/index in his planers. Mentally I understand the reasoning behind it. One click, two clicks.