Not sure if anyone does this - or what the opinions are…
For taping off the rail on my current board (EPS / Epoxy) I just used the regular masking tape you can find at Lowes or HD instead of the expensive Scotch stuff.
Seemed to work just fine. Anyone else do this?
yeah, but for laps/pinlines you want to use the good stuff.
cool - yes I only used it for the hotcoat rail tape off…
laps/pinlines - no way!!!
yeah, but for laps/pinlines you want to use the good stuff.
Didn’t know masking tape could be expensive.
I use the blue stuff from Home cheepo most of the time. If I"m going to spend the time trying something with tinted resin I use the good stuff. If I can get it. Mike
Howzit rooster, Is that 3M blue tape? If it is the tape I think it is, it’s one of the most expensive tapes out there. It’s a long mask tape made for painting that you can leave on for about a week before pulling it off. Not the best for resin work but does work. The problem is if left on for to long when used with resin it will leave adhesive on the board. The good thing is you can get the adhesive off pretty easy by just putting tape over the it and pulling it off and the adhesive comes off. I personnally use nothing but 3M 233 and 233 +.Aloha,Kokua
Hi Kokua,
I don’t think it’s 3M. I just ran up to my shaping room and checked. I thought I had some. The only stuff I have is blue ACE Hardware stuff which is about the same quality and characteristics of the HD stuff. Not very good, but will do the job if the job isn’t too complicated ie tins, pigments and all that. My disclaimer is this, I’m not doing professional work for clients. Just a guy having fun in his garage building boards for my own amusement. Occasionally, I’ll try to do something nice with the resin and I use the 3M 233 or 233+ as you recommend. Mike
Back in the day, Long’s Drugstore sold 3/4 inch tape at 35 cents per roll. Cheap tape is a little more than that nowadays but you can still use it IF you know the limitations.
It will do okay for cutlines of colored laminations over foam. It will be less okay for cutlines over prior laminations.
It may not do for hotcoats, or finish coats, even using quick-setting suncure. I have had the adhesive stay on the board after the paper got saturated through. All the paper came off but the adhesive stayed on the board. It was a real humbug to remove the adhesive.
Kokua’s right, though: for good results use 233 or 233+
Hey kokua,
what’s the difference between 233 and 233+? I have only used 233+…
JSS
Howzit Max, 233 is the beige tape which was the only 233 tape originally, it’s a bit thicker than 233+ ( the green tape).Aloha,Kokua
I was getting tubes of 6 rolls of 2" masking tape at sam’s club for super cheap. I used it for everything except the initial layout on cutlaps and pinlines. Everything else was my cheap tape, and it worked great! Oh, I was using it with RR epoxy. That’s an important factor, didn’t use it with poly.
Howzit Shwuz, Epoxy is a lot more friendly when it comes to tape, it’s the styrene in poly that causes problems with tape.Aloha,Kokua