Sorry for the confusion,
its nearly the same planer you are about to get , but has a wheel in the front thats hard to turn…
I just wanted to point out that the vacuum is more important than the depthcontrol… to me.
It cuts a tiny bit on rockered surfaces, its more of a cleanup procedure.
Ah okay. I´ve seen some PHO 30-82 with that kind of wheel in the front. Always wondered how hard it is to use that wheel.
Vac is important for me, too.
My EPS gets electrically charged from the planer and sticks to every surface when I don´t use the vac (walls, body, cloth).
With the Vac setup its pretty clean.
Now a lil update.
I finally have it in my hands and damn, I can’t wait to get well and use it for the next board. But I think it won’t be before end of January.
Meanwhile I’ll make some mods.
I opend it and checked the belt and bearings and everything looks ok. I cleaned the belt and lubricated the bearings. The back of the planer it’s kinda long so I think I’ll cut it at least 3-4 inches.
First thing was the dust collector, I tried few models but didn’t like so, I had to design it by my own.
Next mod I hope will be the spiral cutterhead.
I also redesign a gauge scribe and printed and gave few to my friends, also backyard shapers.
Nice . You’re good to go. I prefer the Grit Barrel that Shapers Aus. Sells. It’s very well done.
Yeah the grit barrel could also be an option but the price … too damn expensive for an backyard shaper. The spiral costs less than 200€.
Factory bearings are sealed so no lubrication is needed. Be careful using any oil or grease on a planer, you’ll find out why when you glass the shape. Maybe sooner if you use anything flammable like WD-40 near the motor brushes.
That’s right. And; It’s got more to do with the thread on compressors, but drain your compressor.
Bearings are standardized, just measure the unsealed ones and get double-sealed types (sealed each side). These open bearings will seize with foam dust and then the housing or shaft (maybe both) will be history. Make sure that the bearings are rated at least 15K rpm. If not the seals will blow out from the heat, and the rating will vary widely depending on the manufacturer. Most 220V - 50Hz planers run at 12K rpm instead of 16.5K like US 110V - 60Hz models. On modern EU planers this is designed-in for IEC safety regulations (vibration on hands) or unintentionally if a 60Hz universal motor is run at 50Hz. Here’s the H-series parts diagram, I think there may be actually 4 bearings instead of the 2 shown:
Get good sealed bearings, not cheap ones from china. I’ve had a set of bearings go bad after one use when the seals came off. Luckily it was on a router bit that I added the bearing to.
Wow suprized. Not much heat or pressure on a guide bearing.
I was surprised too. I tried to be cheap and make a router bit for the FCS fusion system. The bearing was off of Amazon. I’ve been noticing a lot of the stuff Amazon sells is made in china. Not sure if I got drill bits there too, but I wanted the type with the hex end and I’ve already broken 2 bits. One came loose from the end. At least I have good bits, but the newer battery drills all have the quick release chuck and they end up slipping on the round bits. Good thing I have my old drills.
The US really F’d up when they sent their manufacturing to China.
Happened to me ones with a cheap routerbit (don´t know where that one came from, probably cheap chinese). Ruined my workpiece.
I usually use german or japanese bearings for everything and never had any problem with those.
My old Bosch arrived.
The pro shapers will lough at me.
But I´ve spent 40 bucks and 1 hour of work on much more stupid projects.
removed the springs from the indexing of the depth adjustment
added a makeshift knob
repositioned the handle
repositioned the power cord exit
the vac attachment works good on the side. I didn´t bother to modify it to the center/top
rounded the corners of the shoe and bottom plate and sanded it smooth.
Runs smooth, makes clean cuts and the on the fly depth adjustment ist a real benefit compared to my plastic skil.
Some day I´ll modify the bulky housing for the motor belt. Took it of and saw, that it´s much bigger than it needs to be.
But for now it´s ok and it it works much better than my old one.
It’s really important when buying bearings that the distributor states their rpm rating. If it’s unknown don’t buy them. The higher the rpm rating the more durable and heat resistant the shields / seals are. The standards for ball bearings are a trade number (i.e. 626-2RS) which is the size/style classification, and ABEC number which is about the tolerances on the balls inside. There are no standards for rpm, shields, seals, or even ID/OD tolerancing. That is left up to the manufacturer to tell the end user. There are a lot of good bearing distributors online with this info, so don’t buy unknowns on Amazon. The exception is if Amazon states the brand, you can go to that site and get the spec’s.
Chinese manufacturing is all about commonality of parts, and they use a big network for all the companies there. No point in 3 companies all making ceiling fans to buy bearings from different places, so they network together and buy larger quantities at a lower price than possible individually. When they’re done with the fan orders from Walmart, another guy buys all the surplus stuff left and sells it online. Bearing manufacturer + fan factory + surplus seller all make a profit. It’s not about Chinese quality, that fan bearing is probably for 100 rpm and the surplus seller won’t say because he doesn’t know.
Hey!
Sorry for hijacking your discussion. But I’m also from Europe and on the hunt for a cheap but okay Planer to start shaping more boards. So far I only did repair work mostly on EPS kite Surfboards and a few of my friends and my Surfboards ans SUPs.
Now it seems to be a huge hassle to find something nice in Germany without paying a fortune. But I hope there’s something similar out there for cheap.
Now I found this super oldschool Bosch which looks good so far. Only it looks like while you turn the sled will slide forward. Has this been a problem for you? Or does maybe someone recognize this planet? Because it’s only says Bosch Planer. It’s juicy tho with its 1000w
edit:
Alternatively there’s this Elu Planer for 30€ more. Also with a sliding cam but looks sturdy as hell. With a 80mm wide knife.
is one of these suitable?
The only thing I can tell u is “don’t be in a hurry to buy a planer”.
Before I got mine I found this one, also spoke with Matt Kazuma about it and told me “if cheap it would be fun to play with”.
Try on polish webs, I saw two Skil 100H and so damn cheap.
Funny that you mentioned it. I also asked Matt about the planers because I was super curious. He was super fast and nice in replying and reckons the ELU one should be pretty good and do the job well.
I really like the asthetics of balsa’s Ryobi L22, and ergonomic handle angle and location.
To my eyes, the hand grip angle lookes to be about like the Skil 100, and the front of the body looks almost identical to the Powr-kraft planer.
Its too bad this Ryobi doesn’t have the dame depth adjustment lever mechanism as the Skil 100.
